Battery Light on 2000 Dodge Neon

XxNe0n GUrLxX · Post by **XxNe0n GUrLxX** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 2:40 pm

While I was driving my 2000 dodge neon the battery light came on, then it eventually shut off. After not driving it for a few days, I drove around a bit and still no light. My check engine light also randomly comes on. Here are the codes I got:

P 1684, P 1594, P 0134, P 0139, P 0140

Can anyone tell me what this means?

Thanks!

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 2:49 pm

that name isn't even remotely original on here Sara. Should've went with lilxxxxgirl, that's MUCH more original.

P1684 means the battery has been disconnected in the last 50 starts.

P1594 (G) Charging System Voltage Too High Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation.

P0134 HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1

P0139- o2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 2

P0140 HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2

(Downstream O2 problem)

haha, Sara it seems to me the probs are most likely the battery getting ready to shit out and the bad o2 sensor I told you about last year that you never got fixed.

the charging problem could be something else, but I'm guessing battery

Also, she told me the battery light came on and she has an SE with the no tach cluster... I've never seen a battery light before, do neons have them??

heydockyle · Post by **heydockyle** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 2:50 pm

Edit:

Ryan has less of a life then I do.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 2:55 pm

Kyle stfu... wanna buy her neon? I put a new exhaust on it last summer... it's mint...

EDIT: maybe alternator??

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:01 pm

Welcome!

viewtopic.php?t=365

viewtopic.php?t=43

1684 Battery disconnected in last 50 starts. Nothing to be concerned about. It rarely clears.

0134 upstream o2, 0139 downstream o2, 0140 downstream o2are the o2 sensors going bad, or there is a bad ground. The one in the exhaust manifold, and the cat. converter share the same ground in the Powertrain Control Module. (PCM)

It could be just a bad wire, PCM, or just both oxygen sensors are bad. If they are both the original o2 sensors, I would bet they have seen better days. Especially if your 11 year old car has 100,000 miles or more.

There isn't really any real life expectancy to them, the dealer recommends every 50,000 miles, but AFAIK, mine have 160,000 plus on them, but some don't make it to the 50,000 mile mark.

Edit: Missed the voltage one. Too high volts would be possible PCM too. I would have the volts measured to see what it actually is. The IAT sensor also inputs to the voltage level. Hopefully it is just that. $8 part. If the alternator was bad, it wouldn't make extra volts.

A good man would take care of that. Ahem, Ryan, ahem.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:04 pm

what about the charging system code though, Bill? You think that's the alternator?

heydockyle · Post by **heydockyle** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:11 pm

sidepipe87 wrote:Kyle stfu... wanna buy her neon? I put a new exhaust on it last summer... it's mint...

EDIT: maybe alternator??

Yea why not. Mayswell have four.
Bad alternator wouldn't put out too much voltage though, or atleast you wouldn't think..

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:17 pm

No... you wouldn't Kyle, but I couldn't think of anything else. Really, IAT sensor Bill?... wow that'd be a simple fix. PCM would suck though.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:30 pm

Yes the IAT is also the battery temp sensor on the non '03 cars. '03 used the battery blanket sensor.

The body shop didn't re install mine, and the battery light was on.

They actually threw it on the scrap pile because they didn't know where they took it from. (Along with brand new parts I bought that should have been replaced.) I still want to do, unmentionable on the web, things to them.

If it is the PCM, a stand alone voltage regulator can be wired, but the CEL may never go away. If it isn't seeing the "expected" target voltage, it will pop the code.

Edit:

The amount of DC current produced by the generator
is controlled by the EVR (field control) circuitry
contained within the PCM. This circuitry is connected
in series with the second rotor field terminal
and ground.
Battery temperature is predicted using the battery
temperature sensors input for the 2.0L engines. For
the 1.6L engines battery temperature is calculated
using these inputs: Inlet Air Temperature Sensor,
Coolant Sensor, Vehicle Speed Sensor, and Fan State
(on/off). The charging lamp will come on if either the
inlet air temperature, coolant temperature, or vehicle
speed sensor fail. If one of these sensors fail the
charging system will default to 13.5 Volts. This temperature
data, along with data from monitored line
voltage (ASD voltage sense circuit), is used by the
PCM to vary the battery charging rate. This is done
by cycling the ground path to control the strength of
the rotor magnetic field. The PCM then compensates
and regulates generator current output accordingly
to maintain system voltage at the targeted system
voltage based on battery temperature.

Without the Battery Blanket sensor, it is prolly more along the 1.6 calculations. IDK if the VSS, or coolant temp is included tho. I haven't unplugged either to find out.

XxNe0n GUrLxX · Post by **XxNe0n GUrLxX** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:30 pm

Thanks guys! You've been very helpful!

I've already replaced one of the O2 sensors and this would probably be the second one. Also I'll try the sensor and hopefully that's all it is, so my neon can be back on the road soon.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:50 pm

Interesting Bill... hmm, well I'm gonna get the sensor and put it in, clear the codes and see what happens.

Your downstream o2 sensor is probably fucked up from being smashed up against the floor from the ghetto exhaust job that was done on your car when you bought it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 4:03 pm

If the downstream o2 ground wire is shorted, or otherwise, it could potentially affect the upstream signal.

Yep, I would also start with the $8 sensor first.

I have an extra one,

...

body shop, but for shipping, it would be easier/cheaper/faster to get one from the dealer.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 6:05 pm

Yeah, I'll just have my dad order me one from the dealer. Thanks

To clarify... IAT is the sensor in the elbow for the intake box correct? Not the ambient temp sensor on the core support.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 6:12 pm

Correct, but I have heard they are the same part. I haven't physically seen them to know for sure tho.

5293138AA $8.30

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 6:17 pm

yeah, they are physically the same part. That I do know.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:18 am

sidepipe87 wrote: Also, she told me the battery light came on and she has an SE with the no tach cluster... I've never seen a battery light before, do neons have them??

What are you looking at while you turn on the ignition? Just straight out the window? Did you ever had an eye on the tach cluster???
Ever seen all the lights coming on before you start the engine?
Some of them are the cluster self test.
one of them is the battery light that turns off after starting the engine...
It should sit directly on top of the fuel gauge...

It is easy to identify even for noobs - it looks like a battery...

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:32 am

Doesn't necessarily mean the light/LED behind it works.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:55 am

but it is still "there"...

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 3:01 pm

haha, well shit. I was thinking it read BATTERY or BATT. I probably have the battery symbol and never pay attention to it.

heydockyle · Post by **heydockyle** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 3:34 pm

sidepipe87 wrote:haha, well shit. I was thinking it read BATTERY or BATT. I probably have the battery symbol and never pay attention to it.

You do.