lend your ears to my probs

the bucky · Post by **the bucky** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:28 pm

I just picked up another 01 R/T that I am trying to revive from a stupid previous owner.

I have done coil, wires, plugs since i got it. It runs much better now but the problem is that it runs amazing when its cold but once the motor warms up it looses alot of its pep. really wanna figure it out if anyone has any ideas

has no cat and magniflow muffler ( do i need a defouler)

no intake just filter on the throttle body (iat sensor prob?)

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:48 pm

IAT won't have an effect, unless it is taped to the exhaust manifold. Mine has been hanging loose for years now, and it runs fine.

Does it have a CEL?

Does the CEL come on when it is keyed on before starting?

Have you checked for codes?

Could be a coolant temp sensor, but if the temp gauge is showing normal operating temp when warmed up, it is fine. The PCM gets the signal before the cluster.

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:19 pm

whats the mileage? have you ran any additives or cleaners through the engine?

the bucky · Post by **the bucky** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:12 am

No cel when running. I think its on when I turn the key though. Ran seafoam through it. it has 100k

Gauge. Shows normal temp but I did notice it takes forever to warm up. Almost all the way tp work which is 8 min where as my civic is warm a mile down the rd

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 8:34 am

8 minutes would be fairly normal. Especially if it is below 40º F.

It is due for a timing belt, but that won't affect operating temp performance.

the bucky · Post by **the bucky** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:23 am

8 min while drivi g? I was thinking thermostat is stuck open

Paul56 · Post by **Paul56** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:05 pm

the bucky wrote:8 min while drivi g? I was thinking thermostat is stuck open

My drive to work is about 2 miles... the Neon only starting to get warm and fan running by the time I hit the parking lot.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:36 pm

At around 20ºF mine takes prolly close to that to reach operating temp. It blows out warm air before the gauge moves tho.

Are you saying it takes 8 minutes to blow warm air, or fully warmed up?

If the t'stat was stuck open even partially, it would prolly never reach full operating temp unless it was 90º ambient temps. And once it warmed up from standing still, it would drop as the car was driven.

Even a 1/8" hole drilled in the t'stat will delay warm up by a good margin.

If you think it is the t'stat, they are not that difficult to change, and are relatively cheap for a stat and gasket. So it wouldn't be a major undertaking to eliminate as a potential problem.

Just try to get a good quality one. Here lately, the Stant ones haven't been lasting longer than 6 months in our forklifts at work. Just putting that out there...

the bucky · Post by **the bucky** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:38 pm

I dont thi nk thats my performance prob

Just my heat problm in the morn lol

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:46 pm

I doubt it is the performance problem either, it would run good all the time if it didn't warm up.

Without any codes, it will be more difficult to diagnose. If it was a fuel delivery problem, you should get some lean codes. If you are not getting a CEL from no cat, there may be PCM problems too. You should get a CEL within a few hundred miles, at the most, for catalytic inefficiency.

Mine runs better the closer to operating temp it gets. It hates being cold.

the bucky · Post by **the bucky** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:36 pm

hmm i bet it will be impossible to find another ecu

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:58 pm

There is an '02 for sale ATM... But there is nothing set in stone it is the PCM. Did you do the key dance to check for codes?

viewtopic.php?t=47250

the bucky · Post by **the bucky** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:42 pm

tried to do the dance but it wont say anything never even says done.

its flashing fuse though and i have checked every fuse and all are fine. i am having probs with the cluster saying a door is open. i replaced the door latch already. took the cluster out yesterday and door chime stayed off till this morn. and it also only does it when the lights are on (the cluster is illuminated)

so many probs lol

i did find a vac leak on the hard line from the throttle body that runs behind the battery

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:26 pm

the bucky wrote:.
i did find a vac leak on the hard line from the throttle body that runs behind the battery

That is for the NLVD solenoid. It resides under the brake booster. A vacuum leak there might mess with the engine at operating temp if it was bad enough. I doubt it would matter for over 3/4 throttle tho. The throttle plate is a massive vacuum leak at that point. That tube won't move enough air to matter at that point. But at less than half, it might.

Does the dome light work? Could be part of the "FUSE" issue. That circuit must be complete. A burn't out/missing lamp will cause that. A 194 bulb will work, just won't be as bright.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:49 pm

occasional demons wrote:A 194 bulb will work, just won't be as bright.

Or you could just use a 921 bulb and it will be just as bright

the bucky · Post by **the bucky** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:23 pm

took the bulb out because the light wouldnt go off due to the door thing. guess that solved the "fuse" problem.

pretty sure that vac leak was the prob. that tube was broke in half it ran alot better but didnt really run it that hard

need to figure out the "door" prob. the door message stays on all the time now.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:49 pm

Try getting codes from it now. I'm just thinking it might not have worked with the fuse message going on.

You may have a broken wire at the hinge area that is keeping the latch from grounding the circuit. The Tan wire is the feed, the black yellow is the ground. The ground point is below the center of the dash in the HVAC area.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:51 pm

Danteneon wrote:
occasional demons wrote:A 194 bulb will work, just won't be as bright.
Or you could just use a 921 bulb and it will be just as bright

Psshh, let your dim light shine!

the bucky · Post by **the bucky** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:08 pm

p1684

the battery code right?

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:28 pm

Correct.