how do you pull the hub off??

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rice_eater
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how do you pull the hub off??

Post by rice_eater » Sun Dec 11, 2005 8:19 am

i pulled the caliper, rotor, and axle nut off but i couldnt pull the hub off the spindle...do you need a press for this or was i just a pussy and couldnt pull hard enough :oops: :wink: thanks in advance guys.

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eVilcreations
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Post by eVilcreations » Sun Dec 11, 2005 9:52 am

ok, after removing the caliper/rotor...You will need to unbolt the tie rod from the hub, as well as unbolt the hub from the strut. Then remove the cotter pin/retainter/spindle lock nut(axle nut). Next you will need to remove the nut/bolt that holds the hub onto the lower control arm. After all of that is done......tap out the axle with a RUBBER mallet.....and gently pull upwards with a twisting motion to remove the hub/spindle.


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Diablo0
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Post by Diablo0 » Sun Dec 11, 2005 1:37 pm

Yes but what you're talking about Josh is the knuckle... I think he might be talking about the actual hub assembly where the bearing is housed along with the wheel studs. If it's anything like the SRT b/c I haven't really taken a close look at the neon hub assemblys, you'll have to press it out of the knuckle from the back so it comes out the front. I used a big socket on the SRT knuckle/hub and worked my way around the outside of the hub (cafefull not the hit the bearing assembly... unless it's damaged already in which case who cares i guess) then just kept working at it until it slowly slid out.

To reinstall it I just used a vice to push everything back together making sure I'm not trying to push it in crooked or anything.

Easiest way though is to use a press... but if just trying to remove the knuckle assembly then the instructions above that Josh explained is what you need.
-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap
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Sparky828
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Post by Sparky828 » Sun Dec 11, 2005 1:47 pm

pepboys did mine for like 10$ when i had to replace a wheel bearing all i had to do is bring them the entinre knuckle from my 1st gen its the same with the 2nd...
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rice_eater
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Post by rice_eater » Sun Dec 11, 2005 4:11 pm

$10??? the stealership wanted $360CAN. so i bought the part for $152 and will do this crap myself... basically, i wanted to replace all the studs since 1 was broken, and while handtightening them the other day another one snapped in my hand out of the blue so now i'm down to only 3 studs and i'm afraid something similar might happen with the others, even if i replace these 2... so since the dealer wanted more to replace the studs than it costs to buy a new hub i bit the bullet and decided to do this on my own when i have time, rather than be without a car for 3 days while they order their shit in (thats how long it would have taken them to grab the studs :( )

so yeah, i really just wanted to pop out the hub...like i said, i was hoping it'd be as simple as removing the spindle, which i have done many times, but pulling the damn thing off at the end is where i got stuck. i was thinking of using a pulley puller and bolt that to the remaining studs, then press against the middle of the axle (while the axle still has the nut on at the end, but only screwed in a couple revolutions, so it doesnt get pushed back and out of the spindle). otherwise what kind of press do i use? i think i remember seeing a generic hub press from my local autostore when i loaned tools in the past. is there such a thing?

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Diablo0
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Post by Diablo0 » Sun Dec 11, 2005 7:16 pm

Fyi... replacing wheel studs is a very easy job... much easier than replacing the hub. I've had to replace like 5 now. You can pickup the studs at autozone or advance autoparts for a $1-2 each.
-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap
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rice_eater
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Post by rice_eater » Sun Dec 11, 2005 8:56 pm

i was told its not bad to punch those bastards out, but pushing them back in is a bitch... if its easy i'd much rather do it like that coz i'm pretty sure you can get ARP studs too, which i'd much rather go for over stock.

the original reason for swapping the hub was coz the dealershit wanted to replace all the studs for "safety" and they wanted like $180can + they wanted me to wait 2 work days and the weekend till they got the studs in and put them on... WOW, what a bunch of cumguzzlers, if only i knew that it was so easy to swap the studs.... any tips?

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Sparky828
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Post by Sparky828 » Sun Dec 11, 2005 9:24 pm

the easiest way to get them in is using a spare lugnut lube up the stud with clean motor oil and pull the stud through with the lugnut... to get them straight put a boxend wrench between the hub and the lugnut while tighting down... Thats how i do it and no damaged threads just one fucked up spare lugnut that u can use over and over again for this...
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2000 Dodge ES ATX

Spark CAI, Magnum intake manifold with working butterflies, zzapp 60mm tb, magnum header, gutted cat, bosal glasspack, srt axle back, RMVB (Reverse Manual Valve Body), flex-a-lite tranny cooler, and SRT springs.

~ A loss for one, is a win for another ~

rice_eater
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Post by rice_eater » Wed Dec 14, 2005 12:46 am

hahahahaha :lol: i cant believe how easy it was to put the studs in once i figured out what was what... i ended up using a slightly bigger rear tie rod nut instead of washers and that held the stud in just enough to tighten a nut and have it to the rest of the work. the first one i overtightened coz i had no clue how much i had to do it so i snapped the stud, but the second took less than a minute. again, i cant believe the dealershit wanted $180...i know that's probably like $7US but still. what a freakin ripoff. sure you have to pop the break off but if that takes you 2 hours of labor you're probably crippled

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