Bad boost gauge in the neon or a boost leak?

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PurpleStuff
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Bad boost gauge in the neon or a boost leak?

Post by PurpleStuff » Thu Jan 13, 2011 5:54 pm

Here's my guage. I'm thinking it's the guage that is broke but I'm sure there's a little leak somewhere.


Car off
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Idle
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stdlystdmufn
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Thu Jan 13, 2011 7:00 pm

doesn't look like a leak to me, there is a spring inside vacuum gauges (boost guage should be the same thing) the spring is just a solid piece of metal that is bent in a half moon shape. you could take the guage apart and use pliers to bring the guage back to zero and it should work fine. or you can buy a new one, or you can leave it like it is and just know it is off a little.
the reason i say it isn't a leak is because at key-on/engine-off you should read 0. and it looks like you are at 5 in Hg. (5 inches of Mercury) and at idle a good running engine should be around 18-20 in Hg, but you are actually at like 24 in Hg 24 - 5 = 19 in Hg so you are good just a guage zeroing problem.

sorry i ranted on but i figured i might as well answer your next likely question of why? or what?
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heydockyle
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Post by heydockyle » Thu Jan 13, 2011 7:39 pm

Gauge.
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:02 pm

Come on, be honest with him. His car just doesn't like sitting there doing nothing, so it is showing him how much it sucks. :lol:


But yeah, you could try to very carefully bend the bourdon tube to zero it. About the only way it could be off is if it was dropped. If it was subjected to too much pressure, it would have bent leaving the needle showing pressure instead of vacuum. Due to the laws of physics, it is impossible to pull a perfect vacuum (30" HG) here on earth. So it couldn't have had too high of a vacuum placed on it.

A basic example:
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The tube moves away from center with PSI, and towards center with vacuum. The linkage/gears move the needle.

If a tube has been subjected to more pressure than it is made for, it will stretch until it presses against the housing, or bursts. They usually will not return to their original position afterwards. I have seen them rip the linkage off to.
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stdlystdmufn
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:49 pm

occasional demons wrote:so it is showing him how much it sucks. :lol:
:laughing3: God im a nerd cus i burst out laughing when i read that
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:51 pm

:-k So what does that make me? :-s





:lol:
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

stdlystdmufn
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:15 pm

a nerd herder? :)
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PurpleStuff
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Post by PurpleStuff » Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:18 pm

Thanks a lot for the replies. When I do the Dash Match Pillars and Dye Headliner I'll try to fix it or replace it. Do you think it would still be good to do a boost leak test when I do other maintenance stuff for 50k miles?
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stdlystdmufn
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:35 pm

the pictures that you posted were showing a faulty guages so unless you have symptoms of a boost leak, then you don't HAVE to do it. but if you want to, then go for it. at idle your guage should be reading below (on the vacuum side) zero
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lilnicko11
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Post by lilnicko11 » Sat Jan 15, 2011 3:14 pm

It is def the boost gauge. Mine shit the bed at 40k. They are not the best mechanical but you can usually find them pretty cheap or upgrade to the 30/30.
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Post by Jenni » Sun Jan 16, 2011 11:42 am

have a stock one for sale...

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Post by PurpleStuff » Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:14 pm

stdlystdmufn wrote:the pictures that you posted were showing a faulty guages so unless you have symptoms of a boost leak, then you don't HAVE to do it. but if you want to, then go for it. at idle your guage should be reading below (on the vacuum side) zero
It seems fine but I can't really tell with the gauge. I'm going to replace it first then see.

lilnicko11 wrote:It is def the boost gauge. Mine shit the bed at 40k. They are not the best mechanical but you can usually find them pretty cheap or upgrade to the 30/30.
.

Probably going to upgrade

Jenni wrote:have a stock one for sale...
How much? I'm pretty sure though I'm going with an AEM digital.

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Post by Jenni » Sun Jan 16, 2011 2:39 pm

hmmm, no idea how much it is worth...

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Post by JeffM » Sun Jan 16, 2011 2:55 pm

Jenni wrote:hmmm, no idea how much it is worth...
$1, Bob!

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Vipercar93
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Post by Vipercar93 » Sun Jan 16, 2011 4:38 pm

Our gauges are prone to breaking. Mine was broke from new!
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Post by Jenni » Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:15 am

JeffM wrote:
Jenni wrote:hmmm, no idea how much it is worth...
$1, Bob!

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DEAL!


































Plus 80$ for shipping... :rockon:

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