Issue with amp wiring

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HazmatJeff
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Issue with amp wiring

Post by HazmatJeff » Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:15 pm

So my girlfriend got me a new sub on Monday for $50 because my old one blew and under warranty I upgraded and got the best model that Boss offers in their Outlaw line.

After I got my car back from the shop for a mis-set vacuum line they somehow set the RCA cable behind part of the frame for the dash. I really don't know how they did it, but the wires wouldn't budge so I had to cut them.

After I got the wires taped back together I tried the amp again with no effect. The amp gets power (currently not now, due to the remote wire being cut) but the + and - wires aren't getting power from the amp. There's no spark with the wire, a new wire, or from different arrangement of the terminals. So my question is if the RCA cables aren't connected to the head unit, would that cause the wiring to the sub not to have power? The amp was working fine, even before I sent the car back to the shop it was powering the sub.

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Caraudioholic24
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:30 pm

???? Ok so the power wires in the trunk that go to the amp...there is no power there?? Did you check the under hood fuse and the fuse on the amp...Also make sure the ground is good... If you dont have a remote wire fuse up a scrap piece of wire and jump the 12v lead/input to the remote input. Something should turn on if the amp is working.

Rcas not being hooked up will not let the amp turn on but of course there will not be any sound.
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Post by HazmatJeff » Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:50 pm

The amp powers on and the remote wire was good, but the red and white weren't plugged in after the techs worked on replacing my heater core.

The issue is there is no power going to the subwoofer. I tried switching the wiring and switched from bridged to non-bridged, but still the wire doesn't spark when I touch the two

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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:06 pm

Um you may not want to shorting out those two leads....do u have a junk speaker lying around??

worse case try running another set of rcas from the radio to the amp... not sure if you have like an mp3 player or portable cd player or something but you can pick up an rca to headphone jack wire and try that as well.. If the amp is bad it may still light up but no sound output... that shorting of the two leads together scares me..Im hoping something internal didn't get hurt whie you were doing that
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HazmatJeff
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Post by HazmatJeff » Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:15 pm

Shorting them out, is that what I did? All I did was cut the RCA cable because it was unable to move and produce any slack, so I cut it and reconnected the wiring together so I could get a longer piece.

The amp was working fine though before it went in for the heater core. I need to buy a new set of RCA cables on Friday after class.

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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:25 pm

If you said you touched the 2 speaker leads together to get a "spark" then yea thas not safe...

I would do that I mean if you have a cheap set that you can run to the amp for now just so see if you can get sound out of the amp do that... if when you cut and rewired them..if any of the leads are touching each other they will not work as the radio/headunit will shut them off to protect itself from blowing.

not sure if you have a meter so u can test the sub and stuff....if nothing was touched except the rcas and the remote then I would say the rcas are junk now and get another set..

if you have one of those rca to headphone jack leads and any source of sound like a cd player/ mp3 player/ cell phone thats the easiest less invasive way..all up to you
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HazmatJeff
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Post by HazmatJeff » Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:35 pm

Well I know my RCAs are junk now.

I guess I wont know until Friday

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Post by Themaggots » Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:04 am

Ah. You said the problem yourself in the first post.
The remote wire is cut. The amp has power but doesn't turn on if the remote wire doesn't have +12V
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Post by HazmatJeff » Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:47 am

Originally, the wire wasn't cut. I wired the sub and screwed it into the box. After connecting the wiring and turning the car on, everything turned on normally and after I turned the sub on through the head unit I didn't hear any sound so I touched the wires to see if there was a spark (now I know not to do it) and nothing. So then I took the head unit out and noticed there wasn't enough slack in the wire to plug the RCAs in.

That led to my question "If the RCAs weren't both (red and white) plugged in, would the amp still be able to power the sub?"

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Post by nineball » Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:50 pm

of course the amp could power the sub, but without an input signal (rca) there would be no output (sub doesn't move).

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Post by Jamie » Thu Jan 20, 2011 5:06 pm

1. Take a 12v multimeter and place the red lead onto your main power wire that plugs into the + port on your amp. Take the black lead and touch the frame of your car. Read what it says. It should say 12.something. That verifies that the main power wire is in fact intact from the front of the car all the way back to your amp. If you get 12v proceed to step two. If you get zero on the multimeter, open up your hood, look at your battery, check to see that the main amp power wire is hooked up. If it is, check for the fuse block in line with the main amp power wire if its blown. Other than a serious break in the wire somewhere which would have blown the fuse anyway, or caused your car to burn down to a pile of smoldering ash, these are the only possibilities that it could be.

2. This step assumes you have 12v going to the power wire of the amp. Take the Black lead of your Multimeter from the frame of the car and place it onto the ground wire (-) on the amps terminal block. If you get 12v proceed to step 3. If you had 12v with the black lead connected to the frame but not when you touch the negative terminal of the amp then you have a bad ground wire. Inspect the condition of the wire all the way to the grounding point. Check the screw or bolt where the amp is grounded for corrosion or rust. If wire is bad, replace. If ground is corroded, replace the ring terminal and find another ground. continue to do this until you have a 12v reading from the multimeter. This now verifies that the amp has a good power and ground. Proceed to step three.

3. Take a piece of wire about 1 foot long and strip about a quarter inch from each end. This is what we call a jumper wire. place one side of the jumper wire on the + terminal of your amp. Place the other side of the jumper wire onto the Remote terminal of the amp. The amp should turn on, verified by whatever status light is installed on the amp. If the amp does not power on then the problem is internal and either needs serviced or replaced. Things to check if the amp does not turn on before you scrap the amp is that the speaker leads are NOT touching each other. NEVER connect the speaker wires together. The voltage isn't high enough to see the spark you are looking for and will only damage the amp or put it into protect mode if so equipped. IF the amp powers up by using the jumper wire, turn on the car with the radio on so the remote wire from the radio is on. The amp should turn on. If not replace the remote wire.

During the entire process you will not hear sound from the amp, maybe a slight hiss if anything. This is because there is no input from the RCA's for the amp to process and send to the speaker

And with that said, NEVER ground any power wire looking for a spark unless you are trying to A. electrocute yourself, or B. start a fire. Multimeter are cheap and you can get them anywhere.

If it seems that I am talking down to you, I am not. A simple task for me may be brain surgery for someone who has never done it. We cant learn how to do things if we aren't taught. You can use these steps to troubleshoot just about any type of DC (direct Current) application.

Good luck and ask questions.
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Post by ZeroChad » Fri Jan 21, 2011 1:30 am

I think the problem here is that you cut the RCA cable and then "taped" them back together. Did you realize there are two conductors per RCA channel? If you taped both together you're definitely having problems. Hopefully your headunit has protection for when the preouts are shorted like that.
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Post by HazmatJeff » Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:35 pm

So I bought a new RCA cable and tomorrow I will install it assuming the weather is good.

6' is long enough right?

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Post by Themaggots » Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:47 pm

Depending on the route it takes, it'll be tight.
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Post by HazmatJeff » Sat Jan 22, 2011 6:46 pm

Got it fixed and I needed 17' feet of cable and the wiring wasn't right in the box.

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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Sat Jan 22, 2011 6:57 pm

Awesome that you got it fixed....
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Post by Themaggots » Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:02 pm

17'? What route did you take?
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Post by HazmatJeff » Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:03 pm

Yeah it sounds nice. I have it pointed to the front. I just need to set the amp.

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Post by occasional demons » Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:10 pm

Themaggots wrote:17'? What route did you take?
:lol: I was thinking the same.
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Post by HazmatJeff » Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:19 pm

10' wasn't big enough and 17' was the next one up they had. I went on the passenger side along the door.

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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:23 pm

yea 17' is about right if you go that way...
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:31 pm

Sorry, had to rib you a little. I figured it was more of an available length thing. Plus all those twists and turns add up fast.
Bill
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:45 pm

LOL no biggie...17' is actually a common size...

I have a ton in my shed LOL
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