how to fix... =(

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 7:56 am

04 sxt 2.0l
47000 miles

freind that has been a mechanic said i could have rod knock.

what all would i need to buy to fix it (if i do have rod knock)

Blivitt02 · Post by **Blivitt02** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:28 am

A good mechanic if you need to ask...

Really if you don't know what you need to fix it, it probably means you should just let your mechanic take care of it.

A rod knock usually means tearing down the engine, replacing with all new bearings and while you are in there you might as well do any additional work to pretty much make the engine "new" again. New rings, new oil pump, new timing assembly (incl. water pump), front and rear main seals, and you might as well address the top end as well. This is all relative to mileage, but most of the time it ends up being more economical to just buy a good used engine, or do a swap, or if you are like a lot of us, use the opportunity to build your bottom end.

I guess to answer your question, Rod bearings, possibly (probably) a new crank or get yours machined, and an upper and lower gasket kit. Oh, and time and patience!

Post by **Canada** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:38 am

Its likely either valve noise or piston slap. Both of which are very common on our cars.

Unless you want to take apart the entire motor and rebuild it with ALL new parts, I would live with it til something blows lol.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:10 am

Canada wrote:Its likely either valve noise or piston slap. Both of which are very common on our cars.

Unless you want to take apart the entire motor and rebuild it with ALL new parts, I would live with it til something blows lol.

This.

If it is worse when it is cold, prolly piston slap. If it is the same/louder when at operating temp and gets louder with load/rpm, then it could be a rod bearing(s).

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:15 am

there is a thread a guy made ... he has a video of the exact same noise as i have when i start my car up (cold)

ill have to find it...how much would all of that cost me though?

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:26 am

To get rid of piston slap? More than it's worth. It will prolly outlive the car with the usual piston slap.

To get rid of it, you could get another engine, and hope it isn't worse than yours, or buy 0.010/0.020 oversized pistons, and have the cylinder bores bored/honed to fit each piston to the proper closest spec, so they don't rock in the bores when cold. The risk of getting them too snug, is they may seize when hot.

Cast or Hypereutectic pistons are your options. Forged will be noisy at start up. It is their nature. Stock pistons are cast. Just the clearances are too loose.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:37 am

i dont know what piston slap sounds like

JeffM · Post by **JeffM** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:57 am

thisdieingdream1 wrote:i dont know what piston slap sounds like

Kind of like rod-knock, but a lot quieter. If you had rod-knock - you would know. It's not a pretty sound.

Just like everyone else has said: it's probably piston-slap; I wouldn't worry about it. It's a pretty typical thing on neons and many members can vouch that their cars have lived perfectly fine lives with it.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:59 am

well there was a guy with a thread and video of his car and his sound... AND IT WASEXACTLY the same but... i cant find it... of course

so ima bout to get a sound clip in a couple mins

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:06 am

nvm ... thats another thing... it sometimes wont even do it at all... hmm.... ill have to get it later...

how much would all that stuff cost me though

Post by **Canada** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:38 am

To properly rebuild the motor with all the stuff you would need would easily be in the $1000's of dollars if you have someone do it for you.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:50 am

if it does end up being rod knock you can sometimes get away with removing the pan and taking all the rod caps off, removing the bearings, and checking to see if the crank is scored at all from the bad bearing. If its fine a lot of times if you throw in new bearings (ensuring to check tolerances) and rod bolts it will be just fine. I've seen guys do it and their cars are still running fine. Now if the crank is scored thats a different story, you'll need to tear down the engine and have the crank machined etc...

Blivitt02 · Post by **Blivitt02** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:33 pm

That's not a recommended practice but I've seen it work on beaters that aren't worth putting the money into... only problem is, you better hope all that missing bearing material is in your filter and not else where, or else you will get real familiar with replacing your bearings

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:48 am

alright i have a couple videos for you all to listen to.
there are 3 videos for 3 sounds that im a worried about.
the first one will be of that rod knock noise.
the second will be a clicking noise coming from my belt area.
and the 3rd you will have to listen closly to. it sounds like my belt making a cherping noise or like... idk... a criket.

but where do you guys put these videos up at? photobucket or youtube?

i do want to get the video of all that vavle clatter then to...

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:35 am

Either one should work. IDK what limits PB has on video tho.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:58 am

http://s938.photobucket.com/albums/ad22 ... ingdream1/

1st video is on that squeeky belt you have to listen closely it almost sounds like a criket...

2nd is of that clicky noise...

3rd is of that rod knock noise..

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:26 am

Click on IMG code under the pic, and paste it here.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:45 am

hey i thought that this may help you guys out .

i got my car around november of 09... it had about 37000 miles on it. it was in a wreck but the air bags didnt deploy. the passenger side was fixed up...

but anyways... i had drove it for a a 1000 miles or so and if any of you guys ever had issues with your cam shaft sensor you know what happens... and i kinda reved it high a couple times cuz it pissed me off... i didnt know why it was doing it... but i got a new cam shaft sensor... and hten i put new oil in it. that mobile high preformance stuff...and a KaN oil filter...

it had a Very little valve noise...it was pretty much brand new...

im not sure if it was befor or after i put my cai on. but there was about 2 or 3 weeks that id come home from work in the morning (this was about 5 or 6 months ago) id come home take a shower and then go out and start the car up and it would turn over and spit and sputter it would almost start but died... it did that a couple of times... the one time it happend and i reved pretty good and it started right when i reved it and i heard like metal bang together or metal grind together, or gears slip... it was for a split second... there was also a couple times during this problem that it back fired. but it has never done any of this since. this happened around 38000 miles... my car is now up to 47000 miles.

i also reved it when i just started it up leaving work i got it up to about 5000 rpms.... it was a lil cold out...i usually let it warm up and wait till its about at 700 or 800 rmps idleing...

i usually let it warm up but when its warm i have reved it up there pretty good but no more hten 10 times since ive had the car.

i also put those bosch platinium iridium fusion spark plugs in... around the time it spit and sputtered and almost started... i think it was after that i put those in because i thought maybe that was the problem...

i also put injector cleaner in and sea foam in hte juel and oil but because during that problem where it wouldnt start right i think befor and after it started to get a lot of vavle train noise...like vavle clatter and such...

sorry it was long but i thought if you guys knew some of this stuff it may help you out

thanks!!!

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 12:19 pm

2nd video could just be the normal sound of fuel injectors clicking.

3rd is hard to tell, but may just be a bad lash adjuster, which would require a new rocker arm to fix. A shop might charge somewhere around $200-$300 parts/labor depending if it is the intake or exhaust rocker. (A rough guess) Prolly an hour to 1.5 to disassemble/reassemble, an hour to figure out which one it is, etc, etc. Could be much less.
Never rev the crap out of a cold engine. The rev limiter will most times keep you out of trouble when it is warm, but it isn't the best thing for an engine/wallet regardless.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 12:38 pm

i know ... my uncle is a great mechanic... what would be the cost in doing it my self?

and also... that 3rd video is id say 10 times less quiet then what it can be...

if a 18 wheeler was parked right beside me and reved it up you would still hear that knocking sound loud and clear... just when i have my camera going its quiet...of course...

and to the pm i sent you... the only differnce in srt and sxt is engine engine bay and mt and brakes right?

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:08 pm

Here's rod knock on my car after it hydrolocked

VIDEO

Post by **Canada** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:37 pm

You said you seafoamed it... What procedure did you follow?

heydockyle · Post by **heydockyle** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:39 pm

My dad's car has been making that noise when cold for the past 50k..

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:17 am

ohhhh and another thing is i put that cai on and it rains like hell here so yeah. there has been a couple times where ill splash a puddle and my car makes a noise like a turbo blow off vavle...

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:25 am

the "rod knock" video just sounds like a bit of piston slap to me, mine has made that same noise at low rpms for the past 50k i'd say, no issues other than the noise. Its def not a rocker, i've heard when those go bad and thats just not the sound it makes. I've replaced all my rockers in my engine (just to make sure) with brand new ones and the noise never changed. I also have a magnetic drain plug and during all my oil changes i havent seen any metal shavings (typical of a bad bearing)
Now you did mention that the noise is loud when you rev it, which you didnt do in the video, if its loud when you rev it then i change my position and would point to rod knock.

Edit* if you want to stop by my place i'll take a look at it quick and give you a much better opinion on whats wrong with it

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:10 am

That sound is exactly what the old 3.0 in the Sundance sounded like with a weak lash adjuster. (which is the exact set up the 2.0 uses.) It could get pretty damn loud.

But until you check in person, it is just a S.W.A.G.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:20 pm

hmm... when i start it up stone cold, it makes that *rod knock* noise. it has gotten up there is loudness (of course wont do it when im recording)
when i rev it up to about 1300 rmps its scary to me. but after id say 1700 rmps it goes away... BUT when driving and at 2000 + rpms you can still here it...its almost like a really quiet knocking...
the camera wont pick it up cuz its so quiet.

to the seafoam procedure ?. i didnt know there was one. i just pored some in =/ . my family dont really care to much when it comes to other people... my uncle told me to buy some and just pore it in... hmmm

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:22 pm

What Canada was getting at, if you sucked too much into the intake, it might have hydrolocked it enough to cause it to knock. As for pouring it into the oil, that should really just be done before an oil change.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 8:44 am

oh hmm... well here is a ? ill prolly get yelled at for asking.

hydrolock is water in the engine of course. is there more to it then that though?

also is fixing rod knock the same for fixing hydrolock

Post by **Canada** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 8:51 am

Often times, if you Hydrolock, you will bend a rod, causing rod knock... among other things.

OD, is right, I wondered how much seafoam you sucked in and how quickly, also, seafoam needs to be only ran for about 100 miles and then drained and new oil put in, if you didn't drain it, it may have caused contamination in the oil and caused main bearing issues...