Bloody Automaic Transmission

Alex Kurdian · Post by **Alex Kurdian** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:28 pm

Ok I'm sick of the Chrysler Automatic transmission...I just had the pan sealed a few months back and no leaks...Now I look under the car and there are spots of liquid blood on the ground.....I look around the pan and there is a slight leak somewhere again....its so hard to tell could be anywhere....I hope its not the pan again but frackin hell....do these thing just leak from anywhere??? Solenoid pack could be again....some weird seal somewhere a sensor or something....why didn't they just build these crappy things better....

if its new its fine ..but as soon as you mess with something ...like an oil change or replace a part ....BOOM...forever cursed!

If I had the cash I'd rip the whole transmission out and put in an MTX...

God DAMMIT!

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:35 pm

Wow, sorry to read about the trouble you are having. I wish that you could have an MTX too- your car is practically perfect now but a manual would get it over the top.

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 6:17 am

I just use a gasket. No leaks for me?

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 7:08 am

i just let it sit for a day before refilling the pan.. that way the sealant has a chance to do its thing.
I also use stuff called "The Right Stuff" that is oe spec for most manufacturers. I found the majority of leaks, come from around the bolts holding the pan on. Sealing around those bolts is essential. Those Bolts need to be torqued to spec as well after the gasket has had some time to cure as per the instructions.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:27 pm

gilly02le wrote:i just let it sit for a day before refilling the pan.. that way the sealant has a chance to do its thing.
I also use stuff called "The Right Stuff" that is oe spec for most manufacturers. I found the majority of leaks, come from around the bolts holding the pan on. Sealing around those bolts is essential. Those Bolts need to be torqued to spec as well after the gasket has had some time to cure as per the instructions.

THANKS for this tip !!

My personal experience backs this up..... the leaks seem to come from the lousy bolt holes, not from the gasket itself.

IS THIS 'The Right Stuff' you are talking about ???

http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm

- Nick

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:59 pm

That's the stuff!

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 4:49 pm

The main thing, as far as the pan goes, is letting it drain overnight, and cleaning it well, along with a good degreasing with brake clean (preferred), or carb cleaner. Otherwise, trying to get it in place, before more ATF drips down, is a very tricky feat. Not impossible, but the risk is it will run across the flange, before you get the pan on, and secure.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 6:39 pm

gilly02le wrote:That's the stuff!

Thanks for confirming this !!

occasional demons wrote:The main thing, as far as the pan goes, is letting it drain overnight, and cleaning it well, along with a good degreasing with brake clean (preferred), or carb cleaner. Otherwise, trying to get it in place, before more ATF drips down, is a very tricky feat. Not impossible, but the risk is it will run across the flange, before you get the pan on, and secure.

Quoted for truth !!

This is the biggest challenge, as far as I am concerned.

I believe that in 5000 years, when archaeologists are digging up the remains of our civilization, and find an auto trans, these damn things, will STILL be dripping / leaking fluid.

- Nick

Alex Kurdian · Post by **Alex Kurdian** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 7:56 pm

Do they make Gaskets for these things I think the sealant fails too easily!

if they do where do I get one

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:07 pm

Some aftermarket filter kits have the rubber/cork gaskets, but my experience with those, is they tend to leak worse. Once the gasket compresses a little with time, it will need re torqued, and even then they leak. The other potential problem with the gaskets is if the pan is over torqued it will deform the pan.

I have had the best luck with just getting the surfaces clean/dry and slapping it on, torquing the screws, letting it cure for a while, then filling. I like to compress it while it is still wet, as it makes the seal thin, but it cures faster, and is easier to remove in the future. The small bead formed to the inside/outside will seal it as well as the paper thin layer in between.

If you can find a reusable one, like the rocker cover gasket, it might be worthwhile.

Alex Kurdian · Post by **Alex Kurdian** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:13 pm

Thanx Bill

But when you look at it...this is my 4th attempt...its pretty pathetic when you think about it...its like every single auto leaks from the same points....damn stupid hardware....

It was ok for about 3 months dry as a bone but something happened and its freakin leaking again...it annoys the shit out me as I've spent so much on tranny oil its stupid!

Curse this infernal transmission...if it were human I'd beat the shit outa it and dump it in the garbage

Post by **racer12306** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:13 pm

My dad learned that the 4 speeds don't like gaskets the hard way.

Nothing like wasting a drain and fills worth of ATF+4, back when it was only available at the dealer, in a 41TE.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:20 pm

Yeah, back then the stuff was sold in one gallon jugs and was 7176 ATF. Tho it prolly cost as much as the current ATF+4 does now. Of course DexronIII was only about $2 a quart then.

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 12:00 am

I had a rubber gasket on my ATX for ~45,000 miles. Never leaked. I've got some sort of fiber one on there now from when I changed the fluid on Wednesday...no leaks and it's been a couple hundred miles.

stairmaster3001 · Post by **stairmaster3001** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:46 pm

yea you need a gasket and grey gasket sealer not orange. i used a brand new pan which was like 60 bucks from the dealership because my dad bent the old one getting it off. i have had no leaks at all with that combo.

Alex Kurdian · Post by **Alex Kurdian** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:39 pm

mate I thought my avatar was mad...yours rocks

OB · Post by OB » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:48 pm

In this case, as in many with these kinds of things, I would say that the issue isn't the transmission, but the person doing the work. There is no reason why the pan would leak if the job was done properly, unless there is an auxillary problem i.e structural damage to the pan or mating surface(s). Proper cleaning of the mating surfaces and torquing of the bolts is critical. Not only torque value, but pattern. So these things call for gasketing silicone from the OEM, not a cork or molded gasket?

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:50 pm

Yes, Dodge says to use their ATF silicone.

OB · Post by OB » Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:54 pm

Ah ha, well that is indeed a bit dumb. But if they engineered it that way, I'm sure it can be done without leaks.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:47 pm

RTV silicone has been used for years now, without issue. The biggest drawback is removal/cleanup. But then, some gaskets can be as bad in that area.

because my dad bent the old one getting it off

A thin putty knife and a hammer are your friend in these situations.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:06 pm

darthroush wrote:Yes, Dodge says to use their ATF silicone.

The GRAY silicone ??

It seems to work really well.
Certainly MUCH better than those old lousy cork gaskets !!

- Nick

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 5:14 am

I don't know what color it is. My tube is well past the "expiration" date, so I just went and bought another gasket for a few bucks.

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Bloody Automaic Transmission

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