Radiator Fix

BenAthar · Post by **BenAthar** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:36 am

Since my 02 Neon has a small leak somewhere on the bottom of the radiator, was wondering if it could be fixed rather than replacing it. It seems that it's mostly plastic(factory's bad decision IMO), don't want to have to buy a new one just yet.
I am going to pull it this weekend and check it out either way. Hopefully it will be a bad hose or something instead. It's not leaking bad but a slow drip, but car will overheat after several minutes of driving.
Thought it might have been a stuck heater core(not looking forward to replacing that item, worse than a Honda!) Flushed it and it worked good and had the car running with the heat on and the car was cold from the flush/running water.
Any suggestions would be helpful.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 9:20 am

It depends on where the leak is. If it is at the crimp for the tank to core, then it is done. If the plastic tank is cracked, you could try cleaning it, scuffing the area with sand paper and using Permatex plastic weld. It is available at Advance Auto. Do not use JB Weld or anything else.

Permatex plastic weld

If the radiator core is plugged, it will overheat no matter what.

BenAthar · Post by **BenAthar** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 5:27 pm

That is one reason why I think it's just the plastic part of the radiator that is cracked. I tried flushing the cooling system while the car was running and the heater never really got hot. Was pretty nasty and plugged up some, but not enough to close it off completely.
So that wasn't the case, but still suspecting it can be a problem in the future, although no leaks there inside the car.
Once I pull the radiator this weekend I will pick up some of that permatex weld and post pics in the progress log to show where it may be, and where I made the repair.

superdan · Post by **superdan** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:00 pm

occasional demons wrote:It depends on where the leak is. If it is at the crimp for the tank to core, then it is done.

I somewhat disagree with you on that one. I took my old radiator and the new one that was in my car when I hit the raccoon (which snapped the little foot off the bottom where it rests in the core support) to a local radiator guy to see if he could fix them and he just swapped the bottom tanks for me. Although thats not what I intended for him to do, he still did it. Havent installed it back into my car yet to see if it leaks...Hence why I SOMEWHAT disagree lol

quicksilvr · Post by **quicksilvr** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 1:37 am

If you've got damage anywhere near the bottom of your radiator, don't risk ruining your transmission (if you're automatic). Just replace the whole radiator. The trans cooler is in there, and if it's been damaged, you're testing fate. New radiator isn't much compared to a new trans.

If you're manual, sure try patching it or something. The stuff OD mentioned works great.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 8:48 am

superdan wrote: I took my old radiator and the new one that was in my car when I hit the raccoon (which snapped the little foot off the bottom where it rests in the core support) to a local radiator guy to see if he could fix them and he just swapped the bottom tanks for me.

Interesting, most radiator shops around here won't touch them, as the tabs have been known to break off when re clamping the tank on. They told me the only ones they mess with are the GM radiators, as they are a bit heavier gauge. (which they are) But hey, no guts no glory.

But if the aluminum core is damaged, it would take some serious TIG skills to repair that.

But if the heater core is clogged, chances are the radiator is not far behind. I would spend $100 on a replacement if it still gets too warm after the repair.

superdan · Post by **superdan** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 11:33 am

occasional demons wrote:Interesting, most radiator shops around here won't touch them, as the tabs have been known to break off when re clamping the tank on. They told me the only ones they mess with are the GM radiators, as they are a bit heavier gauge. (which they are) But hey, no guts no glory.

But if the aluminum core is damaged, it would take some serious TIG skills to repair that.

But if the heater core is clogged, chances are the radiator is not far behind. I would spend $100 on a replacement if it still gets too warm after the repair.

Yeah, tell me about it. This guy I took it to has been repairing radiators for years. Its just him and one other guy that work in his shop. He had built, from scratch, a radiator for one of my paps street rods. Although, he didnt fix it the way we had asked him to lol still havent put it in my car yet. Dont know if I will but I would like to see if it holds up.

BenAthar · Post by **BenAthar** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:14 am

it's a slow leak, but i suspect it's on the metal part where the bottom tank meets the aluminum.
The trans coooler in it is fine. No leaks there, and going to do a tranny fluid/filter change this weekend.
I checked the hoses and they all don't leak. Not sure why when I don't see any cracks, might be when it's under pressure that it shows up

The car is flushed out, so it may just need a new radiator, not going to risk having a cooling issue this summer.