HELP with seized coilover **( problem solved )**

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Neon4Life
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HELP with seized coilover **( problem solved )**

Post by Neon4Life » Fri Mar 18, 2011 9:15 am

Hey plain and simple. my car is up in the air on jackstands since yesterday afternoon. i soaked the coils with PB blaster all night. Just a few ago went to adjust them so i could lower em since im putting my wheels back on and 3 of the coils moves like brand new. took 10min each to adjust. 1 left rear coil wont budge for nothing. the lower lock ring i was able to move.


what do i do to get it to move..

i was thinking about removing the entire coilover strut and taking apart the entire thing but what do i do then.. so i see if the 2 top rings will move.. would that be a waste of time. do i just take the strut to a shop and see if they can get it to move.. since ill be going to a shop later today to get my new bushings pressed into the LCA.


well LMK. sorry it was a long paragraph.
Last edited by Neon4Life on Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Mar 18, 2011 9:33 am

If you can use a hammer/piece of wood, or a dead blow hammer on the adjuster wrench, it might eventually jar it enough to get it to move. Heat isn't an option around a strut.

If you can't get it, then if you are going to the shop anyways...
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Neon4Life
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Post by Neon4Life » Fri Mar 18, 2011 9:57 am

oh did i forget to mention that i had a long metal pipe that fit over the coil wrench and i was putting 50% force onto it and bent the wrench in half. but i hammered it so that it was straight again.
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TheRandom1
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Mar 18, 2011 10:06 am

Hammer and a block of wood are your best bet then besides having your shop do it for you.
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Post by hansken_yo » Fri Mar 18, 2011 11:56 am

I had my left one seize like you are talking about and I used a hammer and a steal rod, wood is too soft. Yes I did mar up one of the edges of the ring, but it is still functional.
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Post by Neon4Life » Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:00 pm

yes i am messing up some of the edges. yes the wood was too soft and broke.

well the strut is now off the car.

im gonna try to go to my friends who has a bench vise and see what we can do.
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:03 pm

Why would you take it off? If you leave it installed you can put more leverage on it without the strut twisting.
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Danteneon wrote:You doing this swap with your tech level is like asking a squirrel to land a 747.

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Post by superdan » Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:07 pm

Manny, I told you what to do yesterday when you texted me asking how I got mine unseized lol
occasional demons wrote:If you can use a hammer/piece of wood, or a dead blow hammer on the adjuster wrench, it might eventually jar it enough to get it to move. Heat isn't an option around a strut.
I told you to do this and some pb blaster lol
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Post by Neon4Life » Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:43 pm

nothing is working
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Post by hansken_yo » Fri Mar 18, 2011 2:18 pm

don't forget to try both directions. I know it might sound weird to tighten it but if it helps break the crap up then it will be worth it. also, try to only work with one of the teeth so you don't mar up to many.
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Post by Neon4Life » Fri Mar 18, 2011 2:33 pm

well guess imma be without my car for a week. im going to call up Megan and ask for replacenent parts.

the machine shop said it would be no point to touch it. cause they would just do what im doing. i already bent to crap the wrenches trying to pry it.

FML.
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Mar 18, 2011 2:35 pm

So you're buying another coilover? Shitty.
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Post by OB » Fri Mar 18, 2011 2:48 pm

Anti seize goes a long way. I know when I got mine, BC's info sheet even recommends regular disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication. This is key for people living in rust areas. I didn't do mine, since I'm in CA and I clean mine pretty regularly, but I'm considering it as a 'just in case' type thing.

I spoke with one of the tech guys at BC awhile back, and he mentioned that the powdercoat on the threads has a lot to do with their tendency to stick and bind. He said that once the rings have gone up and down the threads a few times that they will chase the uneven paint off and take to future adjustment better.
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Post by r/tguy02 » Fri Mar 18, 2011 3:16 pm

Neon4Life wrote:well guess imma be without my car for a week. im going to call up Megan and ask for replacenent parts.

the machine shop said it would be no point to touch it. cause they would just do what im doing. i already bent to crap the wrenches trying to pry it.

FML.
what kinda warranty does meagans carry? hopefully they can do something for you
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Neon4Life
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Post by Neon4Life » Fri Mar 18, 2011 3:28 pm

yeah i havent had a chance to call them. i think its a 1 year warranty. it hasnt been a year yet but then again idk. they are open till 6pm so imma try to call here in a few. i just got alot going on rite now. might be monday before i call. grrrr.

TheRandom1 wrote:So you're buying another coilover? Shitty.
No im not. they sell replacement parts. like i think i can buy the threaded part shaft with the bottom part where the bolts go trough for like $100. but then again i will want to buy both rears so that they match in ride quality. so there goes money i wasnt planning on spending.
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Post by hansken_yo » Fri Mar 18, 2011 4:36 pm

OB wrote:Anti seize goes a long way. I know when I got mine, BC's info sheet even recommends regular disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication. This is key for people living in rust areas. I didn't do mine, since I'm in CA and I clean mine pretty regularly, but I'm considering it as a 'just in case' type thing.

I spoke with one of the tech guys at BC awhile back, and he mentioned that the powdercoat on the threads has a lot to do with their tendency to stick and bind. He said that once the rings have gone up and down the threads a few times that they will chase the uneven paint off and take to future adjustment better.
Rust areas aren't the only issue. mine seized just from sheer dirt buildup, though I was able to break mine free after some work. Regardless, antiseize is a good idea.
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Post by Mopar_Korean » Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:14 pm

My BC seized up last summer. I took it off the car, put it in a bench vise and beat the crap out of the knuckle bracket. No only does dirt get in there the powder coat flakes off on the threads and the two peices rust together.

You can also try to put the threaded part in a vise (cover it up with rags or something so you dont damage the threads) put a long 3/8 extension in the knuckle bolt holes, put a pipe on the extension so you have nice leverage and twist it. Its a bitch but it will come off eventually.

This is what mine look like.

Thats all dirt, rust, oil, and sand.
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You can see the where the powder coat flaked off.
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Image

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Post by Neon4Life » Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:22 pm

o wow. ok thanks for those pics.


ill try tomorrow on a bench vise. i never did make it to my friends today.
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Post by Canada » Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:30 pm

I bought a Boeing product called Boeshield T9. Its a really nice lubricant product that dries do a nice waxy finish.

Its seals out water and dust and lubricates the threads as well, hopefully it will work for me, I am going to spray the whole threaded part of the coils with it.

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Post by INVUJerry » Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:50 pm

Think synthetic grease would be a good solution? It'll look like poop, but work better.
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Post by superdan » Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:51 pm

Neon4Life wrote:
TheRandom1 wrote:So you're buying another coilover? Shitty.
No im not. they sell replacement parts. like i think i can buy the threaded part shaft with the bottom part where the bolts go trough for like $100. but then again i will want to buy both rears so that they match in ride quality. so there goes money i wasnt planning on spending.
How are you going to replace the threaded part if they are seized up? You wont be able to get your old ones out to put the new in.
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Post by TheRandom1 » Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:54 pm

Thanks Dan. That's kind of where I was going with that.
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Post by Mopar_Korean » Fri Mar 18, 2011 9:35 pm

I think the only problem with grease is that it captures dirt, sand, ect which can damaged the threads. I used antiseize only on the threads that are covered. That way it doesnt capture any dirt.

On another note, BC (Megan...same thing really) will rebuild their coilovers for $100 each.
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Post by Neon4Life » Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:11 pm

hey guys, im going to be calling Megan racing tomorrow but have a question for who ever is still watching this..


i finally found my reciept for the coilovers and the date of purchase was March the 18th of 2010. that was just 2 days ago. they got a 1 year warranty on them from date of purchase.. anyone think if i call tomorrow that they will still honor my warranty..
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Post by r/tguy02 » Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:33 pm

pretty crazy you didnt have an issue with them till the exact day your warranty expired, i'd still give it a try manny worst they say is no.
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:45 pm

You could link this thread to them to show you had noticed the problem on the 17th vs the 21st. In your post on the 18th, you said it had been on jack stands since yesterday. Worth a shot.
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Post by TheRandom1 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:19 am

From what I've seen with warranty items, my experience says they won't honor it without a fight (since at the time of you calling you are out of warranty) however, it's still worth a shot since a new coilover costs a shitload more than (potentially) an hour on the phone.
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Neon4Life
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Post by Neon4Life » Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:42 am

yeah im about to call here in a few min. i guess well see what happens. worst case is it takes like 2 weeks before i get my new fixed coilover.
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Post by Neon4Life » Mon Mar 21, 2011 2:41 pm

o WOW.

i got in contact with them and i was going to order the shock with 2 top rings and a lower bracket. and they said the Lower bracket has to be special ordered and it would take 4 to 8 weeks to recieve. guess imma go back to this shop to see if they can unseize it. cause DAYUM.
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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 3:28 pm

What about the warranty?
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