K frame not so good

ShayM · Post by **ShayM** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:52 am

My recently-bought 2000 Neon looks rather nice, until you look underneath. The undercarriage has a coating to prevent rust, but the K frame is at the "you can break off bits of it" stage, and I think I ought to replace it sooner or later. I've never removed one before, and I don't (yet) have a factory service manual for a second generation, but I do have one for 1998. I imagine the procedure is similar enough. The instructions don't *sound* too bad, but how hard is this really? How much is a replacement likely to cost... should I trust a junkyard one? This is an awfully important part. Is this a common failure?

Also one of my swaybar bracket bolt heads sheared off when I tried to remove it (I was removing it so I could replace the broken end-link bolt, ironically) so until I manage to get it out, I have a swaybar in the rear without one in the front. Hello oversteer!

ShayM · Post by **ShayM** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:53 am

My recently-bought 2000 Neon looks rather nice, until you look underneath. The undercarriage has a coating to prevent rust, but the K frame is at the "you can break off bits of it" stage, and I think I ought to replace it sooner or later. I've never removed one before, and I don't (yet) have a factory service manual for a second generation, but I do have one for 1998. I imagine the procedure is similar enough. The instructions don't *sound* too bad, but how hard is this really? How much is a replacement likely to cost... should I trust a junkyard one? This is an awfully important part. Is this a common failure?

Also one of my swaybar bracket bolt heads sheared off when I tried to remove it (I was removing it so I could replace the broken end-link bolt, ironically) so until I manage to get it out, I have a swaybar in the rear without one in the front. Hello oversteer!

edit: I have a 98 Neon parts car. If its k frame is in good shape, are they compatible? I'm not holding my breath, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:51 am

ShayM wrote:
edit: I have a 98 Neon parts car. If its k frame is in good shape, are they compatible? I'm not holding my breath, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

No, they are different.

- Nick

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 7:43 am

Where are you located? I have one from an 04 srt-4 i stripped

ShayM · Post by **ShayM** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:33 am

Vancouver area. I read elsewhere that the SRT-4 one might be different too, though.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:40 am

They are different, but not in any way that would keep you from using it. The P/S cooler mounting holes are slightly different. One lines up, the other doesn't. Other than a couple of extra plates welded to the back corners there is no difference.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:48 am

I will let you know that if this is your first time pulling a kframe off it will be doable, but challenging. it is heavy and the bolts to remove it will not want to move. expect a good 4-8hrs or more to get it down and out.

if it just some pealing of the undercoat I'd look into repairing than replacing and getting one from the junk yard is not as likely to be in any better condition than what you already have. You certainly could be lucky in finding a good one though.

As for a common failure, i do not think so.

as for the sway bar bracket you'll want to find a way to get it out safely. An easy out may help with that.

if you really want the procedure for pulling the k frame i'm sure we'll be able to assist with that. I won't be able to get around to getting that info for you till tues, wed. at the earliest.

Good luck yo

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:45 am

The FSM tells you to scribe around where it mounts, but that is almost pointless in replacing it, as the new one may not be exactly the same. But it will get you close. You need to either separate the steering gear input shaft, or remove the steering gear from the cross member. You can leave the LCA's on, but the ball joint must be removed from the knuckle. (One bolt)

I would just spend for a new one.

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