Cool To Be Posting In This Area Again...

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:46 pm

... Not Really.

Last time i posted here had some clutch/ fan issue. Both got fixed, now got some overheating crap going on.

Had a vacuum leak yesterday and rpms were through the roof, and caused it to overheat. Fixed leak, rpms went down, but its still getting hottttt. At a light it will spike up pretty high. But while driving it will cool down and go to about half way on gauge (where it should be), then go all the up until it makes cluster beep, then will go down to normal then to beeping within a half mile.

Has new radiator, thermostat, hoses, flushed coolant twice, & checked for air pockets. Only thing not changed is water pump but mechanic says its doing its job.

At a loss for what the hecks going on... IDEAS?

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:14 pm

Is the radiator fan kicking on?

It seems like the symptoms match no fan running when stopped. If it cools while moving over 25 to 35 mph, there is nothing wrong with the water pump/t'stat.

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:25 pm

yeah it works, i ran an override switch to fan to kick it on.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:35 pm

Any codes with the key dance? Possibly the coolant sensor is falsely reading high, or the wiring is shorting, so the PCM is thinking it is overheating. (The gauge gets the signal from the PCM)

With the cluster beeping, it should be boiling over at that point. When my heater hose ruptured, it was beginning to boil over at 3/4 gauge. But then there wasn't any system pressure either. The gauge/cluster never got to the beeping stage.

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:15 pm

no codes with key dance. From 3/4 gauge and up you can hear coolant/water boiling up in the return tank.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 7:24 am

Do you know if the t'stat has the bleeder hole in it? I would try loosening the coolant temp sensor to be sure the air is bled out of the head. If that is good, I would double check the t'stat, or pull it and run it without, (idling) with the filler cap off for a while to verify consistent coolant flow. If the water pump impeller has come loose, it may not be pumping all the time. It may make noises, it may not.

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:25 am

Dont know about bleeder hole, but i know when i bought the car it had a 200 degree thermostat that i replaced with a 190 for floridas heat. But i will check it all out today.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:22 am

does it seem to be losing any coolant? is it running normal?

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:42 pm

now that vacuum lines fixed it idles perfect, i do notice some of the coolant does burn off. Not much though.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 1:10 pm

smell your exhaust, does it have that sweet smell of antifreeze to it?

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:00 pm

checked, no it does not.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:46 pm

does the cooling system pressurize?

sunburnedaz · Post by **sunburnedaz** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:51 pm

Get the block test kit from napa. I had a friend with a toyota 4runner that would do something simmilar and there was a tiny leak in the head gasket that would allow combustion gasses into the coolant and over heat the 4runner but it was not bad enough to cause noticeable coolant loss or make the exhuast smoke or smell sweet.

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:26 am

r/tguy02 wrote:does the cooling system pressurize?

Yes. As It Normally Would. No hose has too much or too little pressure in it.

Gunna Look Into Test Kit.

Thanks for the help Guys!

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:37 am

agreed, check all cyl with a compression tester.

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:46 pm

Water pump is on last leg. Its not giving car enough coolant to cool it down. Replacing it some time next week. Clutch release cable snapped today, so now i have no car at all. Have to go through Chrysler to get it, total price: $144.89.

OB · Post by OB » Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:52 pm

You should consider doing a timing belt and tensioner while you're in there. Gonna have it off anyway...

How did you come to the water pump as being the cause?

LILBLUNEON · Post by **LILBLUNEON** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:53 pm

OB wrote:You should consider doing a timing belt and tensioner while you're in there. Gonna have it off anyway...

How did you come to the water pump as being the cause?

Very true, will do that too.

Started to see coolant pouring out of it. Pumps got a nice size crack in it, im guessin from the heat?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:22 pm

Where was the crack? In the black tube that the lower radiator hose connects to, or the aluminum part? I only ask, because you wouldn't see the front of it without removing the timing cover. If it is the tube, there is no need to take the timing cover apart. The tube unbolts, and slides out the "rear" of the WP. List price is under $20. Dealer item only.

Edit if applies:

4777171 Inlet tube 2000 - 2002 $22.20

4777171AB Inlet tube 2.0 liter 2003 - 2005 $13.85

The AB number is what you are going to get. But it will not slide in there as easy as the '00-'02 one. I had to do some filing on the mounting ears to get it to fit into my '01.