Rebuild sound system in my SRT
Rebuild sound system in my SRT
Well guys, this is the first time I'm ever going farther than a Wal-Mart sub and headunit setup.
The system in my SRT is fubared. My step son blew a 6x9 in the back, and I blew up a tweeter up front. The headunit I have is an old ass Pioneer (a cheap one) that doesn't have great audio shaping qualities. From playing music for a long time, I'm fairly particular about what audio qualities I like. I hate 120HZ. I also hate 1KHZ. Not being able to shape them seperately drives me insane. I used to have a fairly nice pioneer headunit that I could adjust what I wanted, but after I got an iPod, it stopped being so good to me since it didn't an an auxiliary input.
Anyway, here's what I'm looking at speaker wise:
I have a Rockford Fostgate 10" subwoofer. I forget what model, but it was top of the line when it came out like 4 or 5 years ago. I bought it off of a guy I work with for a good price. I'm going to need an amp for it, and a box. Not looking to dim my lights, shake my windows, or loosen bolts. Just a solid thump from the rear. I'm sure a non-ported box would sound better, but I do not want to take up the whole trunk with it.
For door speakers and tweeters I'm looking at this:
Rockford Fosgate components and tweeters
I don't want to have to work with spacers, and I need new tweeters. I'm lost as to how to adjust the cross over, or how my stock tweeter wiring comes into play.
For the rear deck speakers I'm looking at these:
Something like these
For a headunit:
Something with decent output. I don't plan on running an amp for my door and deck speakers. I'd like a good EQ setup, and iPod capabilty. Bluetooth is not necessary, since I don't use it anyway. DVD playability isn't necessary, since I can't watch TV when I drive.
This is just me browsing on Crutchfield, and keeping in mind a budget. I don't want to break the bank searching for decent sound.
The system in my SRT is fubared. My step son blew a 6x9 in the back, and I blew up a tweeter up front. The headunit I have is an old ass Pioneer (a cheap one) that doesn't have great audio shaping qualities. From playing music for a long time, I'm fairly particular about what audio qualities I like. I hate 120HZ. I also hate 1KHZ. Not being able to shape them seperately drives me insane. I used to have a fairly nice pioneer headunit that I could adjust what I wanted, but after I got an iPod, it stopped being so good to me since it didn't an an auxiliary input.
Anyway, here's what I'm looking at speaker wise:
I have a Rockford Fostgate 10" subwoofer. I forget what model, but it was top of the line when it came out like 4 or 5 years ago. I bought it off of a guy I work with for a good price. I'm going to need an amp for it, and a box. Not looking to dim my lights, shake my windows, or loosen bolts. Just a solid thump from the rear. I'm sure a non-ported box would sound better, but I do not want to take up the whole trunk with it.
For door speakers and tweeters I'm looking at this:
Rockford Fosgate components and tweeters
I don't want to have to work with spacers, and I need new tweeters. I'm lost as to how to adjust the cross over, or how my stock tweeter wiring comes into play.
For the rear deck speakers I'm looking at these:
Something like these
For a headunit:
Something with decent output. I don't plan on running an amp for my door and deck speakers. I'd like a good EQ setup, and iPod capabilty. Bluetooth is not necessary, since I don't use it anyway. DVD playability isn't necessary, since I can't watch TV when I drive.
This is just me browsing on Crutchfield, and keeping in mind a budget. I don't want to break the bank searching for decent sound.

So many neons so little time.
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hybrid-Srt2001
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i would recommend polk audio speakers. they are in your price range and sound great. I have the db series (low line) and they have handled everything i threw at them without a single issue.
as far as the head unit, alpine makes great stuff. you should be alright with a mid level one 150-200 bucks.
just look for 3v minimum pre- outs etc.
as far as the tweeters, it's hard to find the polks. iirc, i found a few sets of the 3.5'" ones on ebay. you may need to cut a slight bit on the dash to make them fit in their holes. I'm using a set of infinity's currently because i had them already. they sound good, nice crisp trebble, just not as much bass and midrange sound as the polks. all personal preference imo.
as far as the head unit, alpine makes great stuff. you should be alright with a mid level one 150-200 bucks.
just look for 3v minimum pre- outs etc.
as far as the tweeters, it's hard to find the polks. iirc, i found a few sets of the 3.5'" ones on ebay. you may need to cut a slight bit on the dash to make them fit in their holes. I'm using a set of infinity's currently because i had them already. they sound good, nice crisp trebble, just not as much bass and midrange sound as the polks. all personal preference imo.


[/quote]Yup it definately needs to go lower. If its not scrapeing constantly why you are driving then its not low enough bro.
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occasional demons
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If you are talking about the ones near the windshield, those are regular speakers. They are wired in parallel with the door speakers. I made adapter plates from thin sheet metal to put tweeters in there. A lot of ppl put them in the doors in that triangle piece by the mirrors.Jerry wrote:I need new tweeters. I'm lost as to how to adjust the cross over, or how my stock tweeter wiring comes into play.
If you are going the ebay route for tweeters, check your local Wal Mart. They will prolly be the same thing, without shipping.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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Caraudioholic24
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- Location: Cumberland R.I.
Jerry if you are lookin for some decent stuff Pm me..I have an audio for sale thread but I have a few more items available...
Im a rockford fan myself and the new punch series are a very decent sounding speaker
As for headunit Alpine is the only ones I run...I also have all the wire dash kits harness etc you need...as well as a decent alpine deck
Let me know!!
Im a rockford fan myself and the new punch series are a very decent sounding speaker
As for headunit Alpine is the only ones I run...I also have all the wire dash kits harness etc you need...as well as a decent alpine deck
Let me know!!
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DuhNeon179
- 2GN Member
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- Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 9:56 pm
Audio System Suggestions?
Alright I got about 1k in the bank and my birthday is tomorrow so I'm sure getting some money tomorrow, and I've been dying to get a good audio system going, but I'm a "noob" when it comes to this sort of shit. Should I get subwoofers with speakers? Or would Subwoofers be good for now? I want to be that asshole with a bass which makes other drivers pissed off. My stock speakers are pretty loud as is. Subwoofers and speakers or just subwoofers? Opinions and no dick comments....
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Caraudioholic24
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- Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:56 am
- Location: Cumberland R.I.
it all depends on where you want to start....
I always recommend if you are gonna spend decent money on audio to get some sort of a security system in the budget as well. Just for peace of mind.
If you want to start from scratch I recommend you get a decent radio and depending on what you plan to run for amps and such as that will determine the size wire you get...I recommend 4 gauge if you dont plan on going crazy but that will give you plenty for 1 or 2 amps.
Then decide what speakers you want to run If you want the best sound quality get 6 1/2 components in the front AND rear. You will need to make a small adapter for the rears but in the end it will sound much better
As for Subs depending on what you are looking for 2 12's (nothing crazy) will get you the best overall sound.... I have put in a few of the new series JL w0 v2's and they slam with only minimal power...
If you want to complete it find a decent 4 channel for the interior speakers and wallah....no matter what deck you get you can never get the power output like you do from an external amplifier...
any questions pm me and ill try to help
I always recommend if you are gonna spend decent money on audio to get some sort of a security system in the budget as well. Just for peace of mind.
If you want to start from scratch I recommend you get a decent radio and depending on what you plan to run for amps and such as that will determine the size wire you get...I recommend 4 gauge if you dont plan on going crazy but that will give you plenty for 1 or 2 amps.
Then decide what speakers you want to run If you want the best sound quality get 6 1/2 components in the front AND rear. You will need to make a small adapter for the rears but in the end it will sound much better
As for Subs depending on what you are looking for 2 12's (nothing crazy) will get you the best overall sound.... I have put in a few of the new series JL w0 v2's and they slam with only minimal power...
If you want to complete it find a decent 4 channel for the interior speakers and wallah....no matter what deck you get you can never get the power output like you do from an external amplifier...
any questions pm me and ill try to help
audio is subjective. i would go in a completely different route.
first would be a cld like dynamat extreme or secondskin damplifier pro. then hu. then sub/amp/box (a single 12 with the right box and amp will be way more bass than you need). then front components. screw the rear, no need for them unless you constantly have people riding in the back seat.
first would be a cld like dynamat extreme or secondskin damplifier pro. then hu. then sub/amp/box (a single 12 with the right box and amp will be way more bass than you need). then front components. screw the rear, no need for them unless you constantly have people riding in the back seat.
I'm a memphis guy myself and I've never said anything but good things about them.
-Memphis MSYNC 6.5" components up front with detachable tweeters so you can put them up on the dash (I did) They have massive crossovers and sound amazing.
-Memphis MCLASS 6x9's in the rear deck. Smaller crossover but crisp, clean sound
-I'm not sure what size amp you would want to run, but the Memphis MCLASS amps have been doing great for me.
-And If you're wanting to do a sealed box, that'll will be good for you since they require much less airspace than a ported box. They give better sound quality and pull more power from your amp. The only down side is that subs last a bit longer in a ported box, no MAJOR difference though.
-As far as a headunit goes, I'd say Kenwoods Excelon series for sure. I've had 6 different ones in that series lol. Many of them come with a rear USB jack that you can mount where-ever you want (you can connect your IPOD cable to that) or play music off a flashdrive or your cell phone like I do.
Many of the newer models have a front and rear USB port (not my taste) and the sub preouts are usually around 3.5-5 volts for nice, clear bass.
-Memphis MSYNC 6.5" components up front with detachable tweeters so you can put them up on the dash (I did) They have massive crossovers and sound amazing.
-Memphis MCLASS 6x9's in the rear deck. Smaller crossover but crisp, clean sound
-I'm not sure what size amp you would want to run, but the Memphis MCLASS amps have been doing great for me.
-And If you're wanting to do a sealed box, that'll will be good for you since they require much less airspace than a ported box. They give better sound quality and pull more power from your amp. The only down side is that subs last a bit longer in a ported box, no MAJOR difference though.
-As far as a headunit goes, I'd say Kenwoods Excelon series for sure. I've had 6 different ones in that series lol. Many of them come with a rear USB jack that you can mount where-ever you want (you can connect your IPOD cable to that) or play music off a flashdrive or your cell phone like I do.
Many of the newer models have a front and rear USB port (not my taste) and the sub preouts are usually around 3.5-5 volts for nice, clear bass.

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000094
OhNoA2.0 wrote:-And If you're wanting to do a sealed box, that'll will be good for you since they require much less airspace than a ported box. They give better sound quality and pull more power from your amp. The only down side is that subs last a bit longer in a ported box, no MAJOR difference though.
aside from the airspace that is an old wives tale that really is not true. it was started because the majority of people buy pre-fab ported enclosures that are not designed for the sub that they house which results in sub-par performance. when properly designed and built a ported enclosure will be just as good, and probably better, than a sealed box as far as sound quality goes, woofer dependent (not all subs are designed for sealed and/or ported enclosures). no enclosure "pulls" power from an amp (the ohm load of the sub determines what the amp will produce) but sealed enclosures do allow a sub to handle slightly more power than ported.
i have no idea where you got the notion that subs last longer in a ported enclosure. in 20+ years i have never heard that but i would love to hear the explanation behind it.

