A Geo could beat my R/T's dyno graph! **UPDATE** with graphs

[01rtgurl]

Holy mother........ Before we begin, let me tell you, after I dynoed my 2001 R/T I seriously was depressed for at least a day and a half. It sucked.
I ran it on the Mustang Dyno at work and after 2 runs, both came back as... drum roll... are you ready?

95 hp. and 97 ft. lbs.
Plus it was WAY lean all across the board, including a hiccup before the secondaries opened down low.

I will post up the graphs tomorrow when I have more time. It's funny cuz my torque looks like... well... think of a table. Legs go up, straight top, legs go down again. Crazy.
I was told on a Dynojet it would have made like 123 hp and that made me feel a little better, but not much.
I did run a 15.8 at the track, I don't see how though, with 95 hp and approx. 2800 curb weight.

Yea yea, too big of an exhaust and the intake isn't helping with all that excess airflow(or so I was told). I have an AF/X UDP, AEM CAI, and catback as you all know.

So here are my questions:

1.) Do I need bigger injectors?!?!
2.) Can I run the "resistor" mod that DOES NOT WORK.... but only to richen it up all across the board since it NEEDS it? (temporary until computer and VAFC arrives)
3.) Am I crazy that when I DON'T floor it, it seems to get up to speed quicker on the street?
4.) I'm waiting on an AF/X header and AF/X Race computer.... when I ditch the downstream o2 sensor along with the cat, will it make the situation worse or better?
5.) Ditch the AEM CAI?

After I pulled off the dyno I realized my defrost (HVAC) was on, lol. But it should have shut off @ WOT anyways. I wasn't even thinking of that when I pulled up there real quick after work. Oh well. Car needs tuned bad.

-Jess
http://www.thedreamcarfactory.com/dcf_dyno.htm

[Smoke]

3.) Am I crazy that when I DON'T floor it, it seems to get up to speed quicker on the street?

well if your exhaust is TOO big as you say, then its probably just getting better flow with less air rushing outa the cylinders, so this could be very true.

[dinetuner]

how big is your piping? it should be maximum 2.5",turn your ac off.. get new spark plug wires....might wanna do a tune up while your at it... also drop a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner...should pep things up nicley....(also sometime get it jacked up and lookf for an exhuast leak *unlikely but it could be) also for your questions

1) no
2) you can try it.. buy BRR's(if he still has it) hes hurting for money and you atleast would help out a fellow 2gn member than some crakhead on ebay
3)slap those babys on!(or give them to me as a xmas present*ill pay for shipping*)
4)dont... or see above ^^

[BlackRoseRacing]

95hp?????
You must be driving an SE not an R/T
You should have layed down atleast 120WHP since we are rated at 150hp. Something is severely wrong.....

[minnimert]

I was told on a Dynojet it would have made like 123 hp and that made me feel a little better, but not much.
I did run a 15.8 at the track, I don't see how though, with 95 hp and approx. 2800 curb weight.

I wouldn't get too down about your dyno results. 1st it was a Mustang dyno, which read low. 2nd you ran a 15.8 at the track and thats were it counts, is on track performance.

[01rtgurl]

3.) Am I crazy that when I DON'T floor it, it seems to get up to speed quicker on the street?

well if your exhaust is TOO big as you say, then its probably just getting better flow with less air rushing outa the cylinders, so this could be very true.

I've always wondered... can anyone prove this?

how big is your piping? it should be maximum 2.5",turn your ac off.. get new spark plug wires....might wanna do a tune up while your at it... also drop a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner...should pep things up nicley....(also sometime get it jacked up and lookf for an exhuast leak *unlikely but it could be) also for your questions

it's the SRT-4 DCSports 3" Catback. My R/T muff took a dump and I got a deal and needed an exhaust and it looked perdy it's 2.25 where it attachs to the cat, goes to 2.5" or 3" into the big ass resonator (which i know is leaking b/c i smushed it on a drive b/c it hung down cuz its HUGE... and u can hear it slightly.) then it goes 3" until the split after the axle, where it has a tiny merge collector type thing that makes it 2.5" till the tips.

I have never changed the wires.... guess thats first!! are those Hotwires worth the $150 summit charges??

[nodestiny]

3"! GEES! One way you can tell if your exhaust is restricting you (which im guessing not that bad!) is just take it off on the next dyno. Just right off the cat, let it flow.

95HP wheel would be bad on a regular dyno, but those mustang dynos will get ya!

[dinetuner]

how big is your piping? it should be maximum 2.5",turn your ac off.. get new spark plug wires....might wanna do a tune up while your at it... also drop a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner...should pep things up nicley....(also sometime get it jacked up and lookf for an exhuast leak *unlikely but it could be) also for your questions

it's the SRT-4 DCSports 3" Catback. My R/T muff took a dump and I got a deal and needed an exhaust and it looked perdy it's 2.25 where it attachs to the cat, goes to 2.5" or 3" into the big ass resonator (which i know is leaking b/c i smushed it on a drive b/c it hung down cuz its HUGE... and u can hear it slightly.) then it goes 3" until the split after the axle, where it has a tiny merge collector type thing that makes it 2.5" till the tips.

I have never changed the wires.... guess thats first!! are those Hotwires worth the $150 summit charges??

you can grab the mopar performance wires on ebay for around 30 shipped... works just as good thats what i run might wanna grab a stock r/t or srt4 exhuast sometime. for 150 you can have tune up new wires and new exhuast..lol *if you do it your self*

I was told on a Dynojet it would have made like 123 hp and that made me feel a little better, but not much.
I did run a 15.8 at the track, I don't see how though, with 95 hp and approx. 2800 curb weight.

I wouldn't get too down about your dyno results. 1st it was a Mustang dyno, which read low. 2nd you ran a 15.8 at the track and thats were it counts, is on track performance.

well did you hear her dyno graph was like a table... get a "normal" power band her numbers could be better...

[teamliviD]

i ran 136whp on the dyno when she was new. one thing you are also forgeting is did you have your traction control on? i know that makes a differance when you turn it off.

[racer12306]

in regards to exhaust size, if the exhaust is too big the exhaust gas velocity goes down so the exhaust gases dont escape as quick. i believe thats how it works.

also traction control was brought up, i bet that would have a major effect on it if it was on

[unsuper man]

t/c sensens a loss of traction and applys brakes to the power wheels. i HIGHLY doubt she was spinning the tires on the dyno, thus warrrenting the t/c to take over. as far as 3inch piping goes. im sure its hurting her performance some, but not -35whp.

the cars oviously been mis treated, or is suffering from a simple problem like blow out or bad gas.
hell i made 98whp too, but i have 1/4 times that says i make much more, so who cares.

[03sxt]

I have never changed the wires.... guess thats first!! are those Hotwires worth the $150 summit charges??

Yeah, just get the Mopar Performance wires. They're nice and they're affordable. And plug wires will make a world of difference. I previously had a 4.6L V8 Thunderbird that drove like a V6 until I changed plug wires. My ass was constantly planted in the seat after I changed them.

[Baal]

sorry but wires wont give you any power unless your stock ones are damaged, you can check them with a multimeter.

However they will definitely improve your idle.

[03sxt]

sorry but wires wont give you any power unless your stock ones are damaged, you can check them with a multimeter.

However they will definitely improve your idle.

No kidding. What's to say they're not damaged? It's an '01 and the plug wires haven't been changed. Mine's an '03 and I had damaged wires.

[rice_eater]

sorry but wires wont give you any power unless your stock ones are damaged, you can check them with a multimeter.

However they will definitely improve your idle.

No kidding. What's to say they're not damaged? It's an '01 and the plug wires haven't been changed. Mine's an '03 and I had damaged wires.

simple...pull the wire out one at a time, start the engine and see if the one you pulled out sparks... he's right, there's no reason why wires, or anything electric for that matter, would give more power unless there's something wrong with the part to begin with. on my turbo car i can run the stock coil pack or the hardcore tec3 coils and it makes ZERO difference

#3- i definately feel that in the first gen, almost no at all in teh second gen. i dont think it's a matter of air flow because i was never able to duplicate it. if i try to back off just a tad the car is overall slower no matter how much i try, but the odd time when you hit it just right and you dont really plan to go all out, the car just goes. for sure it's not the size of the exhaust though...my buddy has a modded dohc with no exhaust mods and i remember when i asked him in the past about this he definately felt it too, even after the srt turbo install. i think it just comes down to hitting it just right in the powerband more than anything. i slightly blip the throttle before taking off in the 05 and that makes the car take off strong all the time

[Kernel Panic]

sorry but wires wont give you any power unless your stock ones are damaged, you can check them with a multimeter.

However they will definitely improve your idle.

Semi-agree with you. Since you dealing with high voltages those wires degrade over time leading to high resistance. But another thing to consider is leakage. Mostly from the center conductor to the shielding(ie ground). A standard multimeter will not show that(a standard multimeter may pass approx 2-5vDC during resistance checking which is not enough when dealing with high voltage wires). When leakage occurs some of the electrons traveling through the center conductor will actually jump to the shield/ground, causing your spark to be weaker(and in worstcase short the coil out). Wires and spark plugs are inexpensive, just toss'em. Get a set of NGK plugs, and MOPAR 7.5mm( I think they are either 7.5 or 8mm) wires. A better choice for CC Cleaner is SeaFoam (can be bought at AutoZone/PepBoys/RS Strauss/NAPA). The stuff ownz. Pour 1/2 a can in the tank, and the other half either have a vaccuum line suck it in, or dribble(not pour) down the TB while revving the engine.

[Baal]

it would be interesting to see a seafoam dyno chart, cleaner engine vs lower compression.

[BlackRoseRacing]

Mopar Performance wires are 7.5mm. You dont need 8-11mm race wires on a stock ignition, hell even with an MSD coil you still dont need anything fancy, just dont buy cheap generic specials from the local parts store.
As for the plugs, that topic has been brought up numerous times, use what you think works....im running iridium bkr6eix's and they got over 30k miles on them between 2 cars and 3 motors....

[01rtgurl]

Uhm I lost my dyno graph somewhere! I had it in my purse, my pocket, my car, lol. My boyfriend said he also lost his knife and joked they ran away and eloped with each other. So when I find it I WILL post it!

one thing you are also forgeting is did you have your traction control on? i know that makes a differance when you turn it off.

Turned trac control off.

the cars oviously been mis treated, or is suffering from a simple problem like blow out or bad gas.
hell i made 98whp too, but i have 1/4 times that says i make much more, so who cares.

Yea, I ran a 15.8 at the track (minus AEM CAI) so it's not THAT bad but... still.

[01rtgurl]

Alright I did find the graphs, here they are:




Kinda hard to see, my scanner sucks. Sorry. What do you guys think?
I thought the magnum's hp was supposed to keep rising at the end?! Could it be that my extremely nasty dirty air filter restricted top end flow?

So many things were bad on the runs because it was spur of the moment, lol. We'll see what happens after I get the shit I ordered on.
Currently awaiting:
-Comp 400 Cam
-AF/X LT header (going to ceramic coat inside/out)
-AF/X Race PCM
Need:
-60 mm TB
-SAFC/VAFC (which one do u guys suggest?)
-Rocker arms/springs/retainers/valve seals
-Cam gears?

[Baal]

Well i think a SAFC is kinda a wast in n/a cars, specially if not heavily modded.

id go for compression instead, shave head or pistons (better option) and port & polish head and intake.


And yeah your graph is weird, first of all, under 100whp with a magnum? thats not right unless you are at very high altitudes and your dyno graph shouldnt be that way, something is wrong.


Id clean the filter, put fresh plugs and check the cables.

[01rtgurl]

Well i think a SAFC is kinda a wast in n/a cars, specially if not heavily modded..

I actually NEED one, to run my intake butterflies with the AF/X Race. And I figured I could richen it up some with it, kill 2 birds with one stone!

id go for compression instead, shave head or pistons (better option) and port & polish head and intake. .

Someday... I shall port/polish, if I can find another mag head. (car is my one and only car... DD) I might do a headgasket and leave out the middle layer, for a lil bump.

And yeah your graph is weird, first of all, under 100whp with a magnum? thats not right unless you are at very high altitudes and your dyno graph shouldnt be that way, something is wrong.

?mustang dyno? dunno. they read 30% lower, thats what ive been told.

Id clean the filter, put fresh plugs and check the cables.

since then I have put in new Mopar wires and some stock Champion RC9YC's. And cleaned the filter.

thanks for your input!

[tamadrumr88]

a vafc would kill two birds with one stone, not a safc. the safc will only control fuel not the manifold. the vafc will allow you to control the manifold

and a mustang dyno wouldnt have given you THAT low of readinds - how about try a different tuning shop next time. if the car feels normal on the street then possible that fault lies with incompetent dyno operators

[01rtgurl]

a vafc would kill two birds with one stone, not a safc. the safc will only control fuel not the manifold. the vafc will allow you to control the manifold

Ok. I was looking at a black SAFC-II. Still no? It looked so good, too....

and a mustang dyno wouldnt have given you THAT low of readinds - how about try a different tuning shop next time. if the car feels normal on the street then possible that fault lies with incompetent dyno operators

I work there, it was free. We tune our 550 hp '05 Mustangs on that dyno. We've recently dynoed a Maserati, turbo RX8, SRT-8 300C, and our new '06 Charger R/T Daytona. (http://www.thedreamcarfactory.com/dcf_dyno.htm)
I think it's my car that sucks

[tamadrumr88]

if you like the look of the black safcII then buy a black VAFCII.... same module just with additional program to run an electronic "switch" via your programmed cross-over rpm (to control the secondaries on the manifold)

[01rtgurl]

ahh ok. done deal. thx d00d

[Baal]

ist much cheaper using a window switch.

and whats a mustang dyno?

[03sxt]

and whats a mustang dyno?

It's a brand of dynamometer: http://www.mustangdyne.com/