2002 neon, alternator cable struck axle

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 9:24 am

I'm posting this over here too from the org.

Okay so I bought this neon off my buddy for $100. Supposedly the wire from the alternator fell off, and struck the axle and shorted something out. It's one of my best friends cars and he went into the army. I don't really know what he's done to try to fix it cause its hard to get ahold of him. I see an extra ecu and fuseblock in the back seat but it doesn't look like he's tried either.

What do you all think happened?

Btw, its a 5 speed, 2.0 sohc, 126k on the clock, with a new clutch we put in shortly before it happened. He must of sold some stuff off of it because its missing the coilpack, plug wires, passenger side engine mount, and maf I think.

Okay, I got the car today.

I hooked up a positive cable from the battery to alternator, positive to fuseblock, positive to starter. Then ground from battery to frame. Are these all the positive and grounds I need? He had his own 0 gauge wire on which he took with the other stuff he took.

Anyway, I hooked a battery up to see what would happen. The odometer comes up, tail lights and brake lights work. I don't know if the headlights work because I don't have headlights for it, but I'm sure they do if the tails work. For some reason, when I turn the lights on, the HVAC bulbs flash. I checked all fuses and they are good, along with relays. The fuel pump primes when I turn the key over. Also gas gauge reads and the needles all do the thing whenever you turn the key to acc. and on.

I'm getting no crank though.

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Wed May 25, 2011 9:40 am

you may get some answers, but they will be guesses as best. how can we tell you what to do when you know that parts are missing from the car?

bretthiltz wrote:Btw, its a 5 speed, 2.0 sohc, 126k on the clock, with a new clutch we put in shortly before it happened. He must of sold some stuff off of it because its missing the coilpack, plug wires, passenger side engine mount, and maf I think.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 9:52 am

nineball wrote:you may get some answers, but they will be guesses as best. how can we tell you what to do when you know that parts are missing from the car?

bretthiltz wrote:Btw, its a 5 speed, 2.0 sohc, 126k on the clock, with a new clutch we put in shortly before it happened. He must of sold some stuff off of it because its missing the coilpack, plug wires, passenger side engine mount, and maf I think.

The parts missing from the car won't stop it from letting it crank... If I can get it to crank, I'll go get plug wires, mount, and a coil.

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Wed May 25, 2011 9:57 am

you missed the point of my post. if we don't know what is missing or what shape the car is in (which is kinda hard to do over the internet) how can we solve the problem? shorting out the electrical system can potentially fry anything that is a part of it. grab your dmm and start measuring everything electrical to begin with and report back.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 10:11 am

nineball wrote:you missed the point of my post. if we don't know what is missing or what shape the car is in (which is kinda hard to do over the internet) how can we solve the problem? shorting out the electrical system can potentially fry anything that is a part of it. grab your dmm and start measuring everything electrical to begin with and report back.

I posted the parts that was missing? Other then that, the car drove perfect before. My friend was going about 70mph on the interstate when this happened. Other then that, I don't know what he tried. I'm about to test at the PDC to see if the ignition switch is working from another thread I read.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 10:47 am

All interior lights work. I have power and ground at the starter relay. Possible the starter solenoid shit the bed?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed May 25, 2011 11:04 am

I would take nineball's advice and get your meter out. There are many places that you could have a problem. Rather than jump to the starter being at fault, check to see if it's getting current. There is a fuseable link that protects the starter (and alt IIRC).

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 11:07 am

I'm not getting any power to the signal wire for the solenoid. All fuses are good though. I have power to the starter relay as I turn the key to crank on pin 24 and I have ground on pin 28 which is thru the pcm.

So I'm losing current between the relay and the starter it seems.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 11:22 am

Are there any more fuses other then the panel on the inside dash and the pdc in the engine bay?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed May 25, 2011 11:39 am

Yep. The fuseable link I mentioned. It's in the wiring harness near the starter soleniod.

You really should get a FSM or at least a good quality service manual (not Haynes).

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 11:54 am

Does the fuseable link look like heatshrink? I thought you were just saying a long name for fuses.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed May 25, 2011 12:12 pm

It may look like heatshrink, yes. Test for conductuity on both sides of the link. No completion of circuit = bad link.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 12:34 pm

Would it be on the signal wire or the thicker hot wire?

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Wed May 25, 2011 1:01 pm

the wire runs from the fusebox to the starter and then to the alt. if memory serves it is an 8g wire. follow that wire and you should find it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed May 25, 2011 1:58 pm

IDK if he has the original wiring from the bettery to the starter, then to the alternator.

I hooked up a positive cable from the battery to alternator, positive to fuseblock, positive to starter. Then ground from battery to frame. Are these all the positive and grounds I need? He had his own 0 gauge wire on which he took with the other stuff he took.

So there may not be a fusible link there. If the relay is clicking when you hit the crank position on the ign, then the relay contacts are bad, or the wiring from the relay to the solenoid. Take the cover off the relay, be sure it is out of gear, and push the contacts closed with your finger. It will engage the solenoid at the least, if the circuit is good.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 2:57 pm

The starter cranks when I engage the relay by hand. For some reason it doesn't when I turn the key, although I am getting 12v from the ignition. If I jump the iginition wire to the starter feed, then turn the ignition key, it works too.something has to be missing ground for the relay not to work.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 4:14 pm

Wow I feel pretty dumb. I'm so used to not having to press in the clutch on my vw, I forgot to on here. It cranks fine. Now I need to get a coil pack and plug wires.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed May 25, 2011 4:17 pm

At least you are honest. Glad it was an easy "fix"

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 4:33 pm

Yeah but that still can't be the problem. That was just my dumbass forgetting. My buddy still couldn't get the car running.

He got a ecu from the junkyard, when I plug that in, the red dot on the dash stays lit, I'm guessing that is the immobilizer?

When I plug the old ecu back in, it lights, then the light goes off.

So I need a non SKIM ecu from what I read, what cars have those if I was to go to the junkyard to get one?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed May 25, 2011 4:47 pm

The short answer is that any used PCM you get from a JY needs to be programed with the SKIM code for your car. A dealer can program the replacement PCM for you, but you need to get the car there to do it.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 5:07 pm

I can't get a non skim one like I've read other people have done? Then unplug the skim plug at the key?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed May 25, 2011 5:16 pm

2002 will be much harder to find a non SKIM PCM. If you do find a non SKIM PCM, make sure you unplug the receiver module first before pluging in the PCM or you will make the replacement PCM look for a code from then on.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 5:21 pm

Okay, well how can I tell if a car is skim or not at a junkyard? take off the plastic around the column and see if the module is there?

Will only 2002 ecu's work?

I would just have a dealer do it but if I gotta take the car there, that's gonna cost me at least $300 to get it towed there and back.. Then however much they want which will probably be a ridiculous price.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Wed May 25, 2011 6:27 pm

Well even bigger bummer, my friend never paid the car off and there is at least a $2000 lien on it if not more..

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Wed May 25, 2011 9:54 pm

Kind of an ass move IMO if he "forgot" to mention that...unless he really did forget he didn't pay the car off?

OB · Post by OB » Wed May 25, 2011 10:07 pm

Hell of a best friend. I don't think that car is worth the trouble, now that it is going to cost an automatic $2000 in addition to whatever repairs you end up doing. Thing isn't worth much more than about $3000 even in good shape.

bretthiltz · Post by **bretthiltz** » Thu May 26, 2011 1:14 pm

Well I got it thru his mother whom thought I was just going to scrap it because they thought it needed a complete new wiring harness. Thats why she didn't tell me. Guess I'll just part it out and scrap the rest.

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Thu May 26, 2011 7:37 pm

it's not even worth the effort to pay $2000 to part out a 2.0 sohc w/ 126k. you could probably buy a better car for $2000.

2GN.ORG

2002 neon, alternator cable struck axle

2002 neon, alternator cable struck axle

Re: 2002 neon, alternator cable struck axle

Re: 2002 neon, alternator cable struck axle