Rebuild a 40TE?

Questions about axles, transmissions, differentials, pretty much anything that connects the engine to the wheels, this is the place for those questions.
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TO Rebuild or replace ??

Poll ended at Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:16 pm

Rebuild with Trans-star kevlar rebuild kit & shift improver mod
2
40%
Replace with low mileage used
3
60%
 
Total votes: 5

03_neoviper
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Rebuild a 40TE?

Post by 03_neoviper » Mon May 30, 2011 12:16 pm

Hey Guys /Gals ,

I was wondering if it would be a better decision to rebuild my Transaxle or put a used one in ? I am a Noob mechanic , Ive been working for Chrysler as a technician for a few months now (some experience none of it transmissions) . On a 1 to 10 scale what would you rate this task? Also any approximate time for a full overhaul ?

If I get a Factory manual for it I know it would make life alot easier ... are there any special tools needed to do this ? (sure I have access to all needed)

NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Mon May 30, 2011 3:16 pm

I don't have any experience with these transmissions, but I think that it would be a good thing to try out a rebuild.

Here is a link with some pics:
http://img.betchuk.com/thumbnails.php?album=10&page=1

This may not be exactly the same transmission, but it should be very similar.
Hopefully, that will help give some ideas.



- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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gilly02le
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Post by gilly02le » Mon May 30, 2011 5:25 pm

MTX swap it.
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03_neoviper
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Post by 03_neoviper » Mon May 30, 2011 8:02 pm

tht would require me to find a doner car or all the parts for the swap which in turn would increase down time and cost
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seisephiroth
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Post by seisephiroth » Tue May 31, 2011 10:17 am

Automatic transmissions can be real bastards to work on, especially if you've never done any transmission work, there's so many things you could get wrong and the trasnmission will lock up on you, i'd recommend getting the replacement, then keep the old one and tinker with it so you get comfortable with how it goes together and how power flows through it
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03_neoviper
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Post by 03_neoviper » Tue May 31, 2011 5:58 pm

well I have plenty of Guidance from the technicians I work with at Chrysler ... combined they have 100 years of experience
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seisephiroth
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Post by seisephiroth » Wed Jun 01, 2011 12:43 am

still i'd get the replacement on the off chance something important breaks, that way you can also still drive the car around while modding this other trans, just my 2 cents worth
The Millennium Falcon of Neons

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03_neoviper
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Post by 03_neoviper » Wed Jun 01, 2011 6:19 pm

well car is parked at the moment after a quick lap around the yard to get the SEl to come on ..then hooked up a DRB III and got a code for loss of prime on my transmission ... a few guys i worked with suggested that the filter or O-Ring in the pan had fallen off . the transaxle has been rebuilt within 100k by a no name company so maybe it is installer error?
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OB
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Post by OB » Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:01 pm

If you aren't familiar with the trans, how it works, etc then you might consider having one of the trans guys at work do it for you, or at the very least walk you through it. What better resource than the experts at your shop? And you'll have access to all the manuals online which will be nice too.
-Derek

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03_neoviper
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Post by 03_neoviper » Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:29 pm

well I discussed that with them today, one said he will rebuild it for $250 plus parts, the other told me to bring it in and he will help me do it for free ...he said it can be done in a little over 3 hours for a complete overhaul

03_neoviper
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Post by 03_neoviper » Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:13 pm

YAYYYYYY! so i may not need a rebuild yet ... redid the pan gasket and put a new filter in and it shifts so nice ...car has a miss but thats minor ... i rused and now the tranny pan leaks ... anyone know how long it takes for mopar ATF RTV to cure? tube didnt say

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jun 02, 2011 11:15 pm

I would have let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes before adding fluid. Also made sure it had a completely dry surface to mate to. That part can be tricky, as it constantly drips. Brake cleaner and lint free rag are your friend here. Have the pan ready to go with the RTV. Spray the ATX mating area and blot with the rag. Slap the pan in place as quickly/gently as possible. Move it around just slightly, and start all the bolts and just snug them down. Let the RTV cure for a bit, then torque to spec. You want to seat the pan when snugging them tho. You don't want the silicone compressing and possibly splitting as it is compressed. That paper thin layer is all you need. Remember, it will have a small bead inside and out. Plus it is about 3/4 inch across.
Bill
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03_neoviper
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Post by 03_neoviper » Fri Jun 03, 2011 5:48 pm

yeah i learned that the hard way lol also use a air hose to spray in thethe port on the corner of the valvebody ( believed to be dipstick tube ) it blows out the fluid and keeps it from dripping long enough to brakeclean and wipe down the surface and mate the
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