Good Starting point for Neon Perf?

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 12:53 pm

i was wondering what a good starting point for a moderate perf street neon would be? it's a 2002 neon R/T, with the magnum intake and R/T exhaust that's part of the R/T package.

any ideas?

Thanks,
BlackJack

EDIT: Yes it is all stock

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 1:57 pm

All stock I assume?

Remove the intake resonator from inside the driverside fender.
Short throw shifter...coilovers/lowering springs.
Don't worry about exhaust or intake. R/T exhaust is already a nice setup. And Neon intakes already draw cold air from inside the fender. So don't waste you money on a CAI, unless you want it for the looks.

g_force58 · Post by **g_force58** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 3:45 pm

I agree with DetergentCandy. You can also firm things up with torque strut bushings or new dogbones. Don't forget the trans mount, install bushings there too. This should firm up the shifts and help eliminate bog on launch. If you go dogbones expect more vibration, much more than with the strut bushings. I think modernperformance.com offers both options.

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 3:50 pm

well the good thing is, when i put a new stock bumper for safety, the resonater was there, but a bolt clip was broken, so shouldn't be too hard, and do i have to worry about water?

and i live in canada so, im limited as to my options without paying major bucks xD unless theres a site i don't know about?

and im guessing paying 50$ for a performance washable intake is good?

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:25 pm

youve got an r/t, already half the people on these forums are jealous.. at least i am,.. follow detergentcandys advice and call it a day. coilovers are sweet, but pricey, a set of tokiko blue struts arent cheap at the moment either, or i'd say get struts and lowering springs, also maybe lightweight rims.

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:28 pm

You don't have to worry about water. There is a small elbow tube that goes from the airbox to the hole in the fender. That's too high for any water to get in. Just remove the pumpkin, leave the elbow tube, get a K&N filter and your intake will be set

jckevns · Post by **jckevns** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 7:16 pm

blackjack23 wrote:well the good thing is, when i put a new stock bumper for safety, the resonater was there, but a bolt clip was broken, so shouldn't be too hard, and do i have to worry about water?

and i live in canada so, im limited as to my options without paying major bucks xD unless theres a site i don't know about?

and im guessing paying 50$ for a performance washable intake is good?

modernperformance.com has everything, they will ship to canada

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:44 pm

1. Full prothane bushing kit
2. AGP motor mounts
3. New strut mount front and rear
4. Booger shifter bushings
5. AFx PCM
6. Ebay UDP
7. Good 205/45/16 tires
8. Hawk HPS front brake pads
9. New struts (tokico blues are good)
10. 22mm rear sway bar
11. Full tune up with good fluids and champion OE copper plugs

Those items will make for a great drivng car that is fun and will still get 30+ mpg.

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 7:09 pm

what does removing the resonator box and tube thingy do exactly? just eliminates the restriction of air? or was i not supposed to remove the tube thingy?

EDIT: is there a way to paint rims? like sacchi rims from canadian tire that have alot of curb rash xD

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 7:18 pm

leave the box under the hood where ur air filter goes, leave the 90degree snorkel goin into the fender that has the sensor plugged into it.. remove the big box in the fender...

yes removes restriction... although i have recently put mine back in, since i have an auto, my car actually runs better with the restriction...

since u got an r/t you dont have to worry about it..

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 7:21 pm

Less air restriction, ya.
There's an elbow tube with a sensor. Leave that.

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 7:40 pm

I have sacchi brand rims that, when i won the car (police auction) had and still ahs alot of road rash :/ idk what i can do,.

EDIT: i don't have much when it comes to money, so new rims are out of the question, is it possible to jsut repaint them?

DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 9:13 pm

blackjack23 wrote:I have sacchi brand rims that, when i won the car (police auction) had and still ahs alot of road rash :/ idk what i can do,.

EDIT: i don't have much when it comes to money, so new rims are out of the question, is it possible to jsut repaint them?

Painting isn't going to do much to cover up road rash. And it's just going to flake off over time anyway. I've never seen painted wheels last long.
Your best bet is to find a different set of rims if you're unhappy with what you have.
Look on Craigslist. You can find some really good deals on there if you're on a budget.

Post by **racer12306** » Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:51 pm

If you go with booger bushings get them from JeffB direct. They cost the same as they do from Modern and Jeff makes more money at it.

JM shifter bushings are a good supplement to the booger bushings.

Shameless Plug

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Sun Jul 31, 2011 12:01 am

my personal opinion for where to start is with the suspension. going fast is dependent on how well your car can handle the stresses put upon it. after suspension i would hit up brakes and then i would look into making the car faster.

Some real simple suspension upgrades that are great would be starting with sway bars and bushings, then spring/strut or coilovers. with the correct alignment and balance these cars can take corners like they are on rails.

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Sun Jul 31, 2011 10:28 am

I found some rims on kijiji, but they are not in my price range for right now xD i'd have to wait till i get paid again

they are asa brand..

here: http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeIm ... =298672044

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Sun Jul 31, 2011 1:00 pm

ASP Turbo kit...save all the money from the bolt-ons that would give you 2-3 hp and put it toward something that will give you 100hp+.

You will have to upgrade you clutch to handle it...everything else can wait til it breaks

Upgrading handling is cool and gets you more noticeable improvement for the $$$ you spend, but when I upgraded to coilovers, my car felt slower even though I was going thru corners faster...

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jul 31, 2011 6:49 pm

Jerome Adams wrote:
Upgrading handling is cool and gets you more noticeable improvement for the $$$ you spend, but when I upgraded to coilovers, my car felt slower even though I was going thru corners faster...

So basically, it doesn't scare the shit out of you anymore.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:59 pm

That is some truth.

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Sun Jul 31, 2011 11:41 pm

occasional demons wrote:
Jerome Adams wrote:
Upgrading handling is cool and gets you more noticeable improvement for the $$$ you spend, but when I upgraded to coilovers, my car felt slower even though I was going thru corners faster...
So basically, it doesn't scare the shit out of you anymore.

Exactly! I have to go faster to get the same amount of adrenaline as before...and the concentration I used to put toward keeping it between the lines is now focused on looking for cops.

I still need a set of sways so I assume that will make it even more planted, but also introduces the chance of something I have heard of.... "oversteer" not quite sure what it is, but hope to find out someday

steamer1227 · Post by **steamer1227** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:54 am

If u want oversteer get a 240sx or any RWD MTX and have at it. Lol. Tons of fun. Dam now I'm missing my 240sx.

. Lol.

As far as a good starting point def start with getting the car back to a "clean slate" with tune up and any other parts that are due to replace. Then brakes and suspension would be a good start to see the most noticeable differences in. Then when u can spend more money on performance parts u won't have any issues with controlling you're new power.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 11:26 pm

Lightweight wheels would be good, like some 15" rota slipstreams. Should compliment a good suspension setup nicely.

Paul56 · Post by **Paul56** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 3:11 pm

Driver weight mod = diet

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:12 pm

hey xD im 210 at 6' bud, and it's all muscle xD watch it xD

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:43 pm

Muscle weighs more than fat. You're screwed on that mod.

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:06 pm

maybe so, but i don't think women enjoy muscle more, and that's why i want to xD

how do these struts look:
http://tinyurl.com/3uwrmv4
they have good reviews for maxima's and some say they are bilstiens in disguise form china

OB · Post by OB » Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:14 pm

blackjack23 wrote: how do these struts look:
http://tinyurl.com/3uwrmv4

They look cheap.

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:31 pm

how about these? i've been just looking around for it..

http://tinyurl.com/3j4rdpq

OB · Post by OB » Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:50 pm

Now you're talking, much better choice. I had HP's for years and they worked great, still have them as back ups for my other car actually! The valving is just aggressive enough to work well with aftermarket drop springs without losing too much ride quality.

blackjack23 · Post by **blackjack23** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:53 pm

well i can only afford the struts, mostly because my rear end is squeaking like a mother(something else). the garage **coughcanadiantirecough** that did my car for safety did the rear struts.. but they still squeak...

2GN.ORG

Good Starting point for Neon Perf?

Good Starting point for Neon Perf?

starting point for neon perf