Air Conditioning High Pressure Switch Removal?

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Cokedoctor
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Air Conditioning High Pressure Switch Removal?

Post by Cokedoctor » Sat Aug 06, 2011 11:55 am

How do you remove this thing from the backside of the compressor? I got the snap-ring out, and it's not budging.

I'm replacing my compressor with a re-manufactured one from Advance Auto, and it came with a bung-plug in its place, also held in with a snap-ring, as if they expect you to reuse your old sensor.

Anybody ever have to replace their compressor?? How did you change the switch?



Justin
'13 Chrysler 300S 5.7 AWD - the financial burden
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR SRT Coupe - 1 of 98
'86 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - all original
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UriahRR
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Post by UriahRR » Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:54 pm

Go a/c-less. It's the only way to fly :thumbup:
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Mopar_Korean
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Post by Mopar_Korean » Sat Aug 06, 2011 1:57 pm

I actually just replaced this switch. From what I recall its the low pressure compressor interrupter. In other words if there isnt enough refrigerant/oil in the system it cuts power to the A/C clutch to keep the compressor from becoming damaged.

Anyways my old switch was seized in the compressor housing. The sensor has a thin metal sleeve crimped around the plastic and mine wouldnt budge. I used a flat blade screw driver and basically smashed the plastic out and used needle nose pliers to pull the sleeve out. It was a huge pain in the ass. About mid way down the hole there is an o-ring that seals the hole.

My only advice is to smash it out without scaring the housing and buy a new one. I put a pretty good scar in the housing but it was above the o-ring so I think it will seal up fine. In case you were wondering, No you wont be able to punch the sensor into the compressor. So dont worry about that.

The sensor costs $12 from rockauto.com and I think autozone sells them too for around the same price.

Heres a diagram since it may be hard to understand what I said. Dont laugh at my amazing artistic ability.

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Cokedoctor
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Post by Cokedoctor » Sat Aug 06, 2011 2:51 pm

Thanks guys. Yeah, I bought one from Advance Auto, they had it in stock. There was NO WAY the old one was coming out of there. Best to put a new one in, instead of trying to re-use the botched up one from trying to remove it, and failing miserably.

Hahaha

I got the compressor installed, and everything, but my dad is missing the adapter we need to vacuum the system down. I won't be able to charge it til later next week. :(
'13 Chrysler 300S 5.7 AWD - the financial burden
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR SRT Coupe - 1 of 98
'86 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - all original
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000123

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jonnymopar
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Post by jonnymopar » Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:59 pm

Shitty, considering the insane humidity in the north east right now.
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Jon J.

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Cokedoctor
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Post by Cokedoctor » Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:53 am

Yeah no kidding. Driving it to work each day really blows without cold air blowing in my face lol

Oh well...I got the windows down, sunroof open, and pedal nailed to the floor. :)
'13 Chrysler 300S 5.7 AWD - the financial burden
'95 Dodge Neon NYG ACR SRT Coupe - 1 of 98
'86 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - all original
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000123

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2005.Neon.SXT
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:08 am

Cokedoctor wrote:and pedal nailed to the floor. :)
Well that can't be good for when you need to brake :shock:

:lol:
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illriginalized
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Post by illriginalized » Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:50 am

I'm curious.. would the A/C High Side Pressure Switch be the culprit to prevent the clutch from activating? In other words, only way I can activate the clutch is by jumping the relay with positive battery terminal.. which then the A/C works and blows freezing cold air.

Even after refilling it, as soon as I removed the jumper from the A/C relay, the air went back to outside temps.

Also the plug that connects on top (dark green) was not getting any power at all.. with and without the A/C turned on. I unplugged it and tested with a meter.. Not sure if the pressure switch is even related =\


By compressor, I mean the metal tank that sits closest to the firewall and low side line connects to it.


Edit: It's the accumulator, the cable that plugs into that.. there isn't any power going to it.

r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:11 am

your issue might be something else, i'll post the schematic for the whole a/c system so you can trace back to where the power isnt getting through.
Justin
[02 R/T sold][00 Highline sold][04 r/t scrapped][95 NYG Sport coupe][01 r/t DD]
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