disc swap help please

TheDirtyBomb · Post by **TheDirtyBomb** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 8:29 pm

I finished up my swap and I thought everything was gravy. E brake works fine, but when I tested the applied brakes only the passenger side was holding. Also, when I went to bleed the brakes there was no fluid, but fluid in the reservoir.

Someone please come to my rescue on this I getting so pissed off and fed up.

JeffM · Post by **JeffM** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 8:32 pm

is the line crimped somewhere?

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 8:46 pm

ok so questions.. so u swapped to discs in the rear, now your ebrake works fine on the passenger.. but not the driver side?. that means you need to adjust the ebrake star nut on that side...

if i misundertood and you meant ebrake works all around, and the brakes work on the passenger side, and not the driver side. if no fluid is coming out when you bleed the brakes, you got a clogged line,...

TheDirtyBomb · Post by **TheDirtyBomb** » Sun Aug 07, 2011 10:30 pm

TheDirtyBomb wrote: E brake works fine, but when I tested the applied brakes only the passenger side was holding.

So only the passenger side is holding when the brakes are applied. I have new fluid lines on both sides. When I tried bleeding I didnt get fluid from either side(I could have been inpatient and not have tried long enough). The passenger side is working though.

I didnt try bleeding them again after I tested to make sure they were working. So if both my fluid lines are new. Could the clog be in the drivers side of the hardline. Is there something I can do to get it unclogged without replacing it?

p.s. my brakes worked fine before I did the swap.

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 6:55 am

do your brakes feel spongy?

if your brakes worked fine before the swap, then your hard lines are probably fine, if your flex lines going to the calipers are new, i dont see how they could be clogged.

that leaves the caliper itself. a seized piston could keep it from working, but you should be getting fluid from the bleed screw/nut

im assuming they are used calipers. so they could be full of dirty fluid, dirt, rust, from sitting, water..

how are you bleeding them, are you gravity bleeding, or are you using the 2 person pump and bleed method?

you can check your hard lines by having someone hold down the brake pedal, then undo the hardline from the flex and pump the brake pedal a few times(have a rag handy cuz fluids gonna flow if your not clogged)

if your just gravity bleeding, i would recommend using the 2 person method to force the crud and gunk out of the caliper. when i did my swap my parts were from a junkyard, and so much rust and crap came out of the bleeder., took a good 10 or so rounds of (pump pump pump hold, bleed nut open, flush gunk out, bleed nut close, repeat) till i got good clean fluid and all the air out of it.

you could very well just have alot of air in the line, and its gonna take a few times to get the fluid moving...

Just to clarify...pump up the brakes then hold the pedal down fairly hard, while holding the pedal cut the bleeder loose. Your assistants foot should go to the floor. When it's at the floor close the bleeder. Then pump up again, hold and cut loose the bleeder, again to the floor, close the bleeder, etc.. Should usually do that at least 3 times per wheel, checking the fluid level in the reservior inbetween each wheel.

and make sure you keep the reservoir topped off, dont let it go dry or you'll get air in the line and have to bleed all over again..

TheDirtyBomb · Post by **TheDirtyBomb** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 3:54 pm

If it is a siezed piston what can I do to fix it?

Im using the pump method and im thinking that maybe I just didnt have enough patience when I did it. I was already getting fed up with everyhting else I had to do.

-swap knuckles, becuse of bent spindle
-buy new flez line for drivers side cause guy sold me the wrong one
-Had to order new bajo bolts cause an old one snapped and there were no washers

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:05 pm

rust inside the caliper causes it to seize, if so you need to take it apart and install new seals.. 2$ part on rockauto.com caliper piston repair kit.

but is it seized? when you installed the brake pads in the rear did you have trouble moving the piston all the way in to install the caliper? if the piston moved, then it shouldnt be seized..

i think you just didnt bleed the brakes right, or long enough...... can you explain how you did it?, thats the second time you said you didnt have enough patience with it..

TheDirtyBomb · Post by **TheDirtyBomb** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:02 pm

I was short on time before having to go to work and instead of spening time pumping multiple times we did it once and I decided it was f*** up.

The piston was all the way in when I put in the pads. Could it be stuck in there like that?

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:29 pm

it could be.. but..

just try to do a proper bleeding first to see if that works out your problem, then you can worry about if its seized.. you wont know until you properly bleed the brakes. you could have alot of air in the line..

boostalot717 · Post by **boostalot717** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:34 pm

if you got no fluid when bleeding you need to rebleed it. Once you get fluid try pulling the stuck caliper and apply brakes gently. This may free the piston if it is still stuck.

TheDirtyBomb · Post by **TheDirtyBomb** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:19 pm

SO... the piston decided to free its self. I bled the brakes until there was mostly the new fluid coming out. Unfortunately I don't have enough to get it completely at the moment.

NOW... after we bled the brakes I got in the car to give it a feel. Nice and stiff pedal. After I started the car, I experienced a soft pedal which had very little reaction.

Also there is a sound of scraping or dragging brakes. Should this be expected for awhile since there was quite a bit of rust build up on the rotors?

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:54 pm

TheDirtyBomb wrote:
NOW... after we bled the brakes I got in the car to give it a feel. Nice and stiff pedal. After I started the car, I experienced a soft pedal which had very little reaction.

Also there is a sound of scraping or dragging brakes. Should this be expected for awhile since there was quite a bit of rust build up on the rotors?

before you read the rest of this, did you try pumping the brake with the car running to rebuild the pressure in the brake system? or did you start the car, feel a soft pedal and say "dammit!"?

if after you started the car and cant get a firm pedal that means you have air in the line still, and you didnt bleed it all out., you need to do all 4 corners.. you had a firm pedal with the car off cuz your building pressure against the brake booster..

now when you turn the car on, you are now applying brake pressure to all the air in the line. giving you a spongy pedal.

yes when i did my swap they scraped until i did a few hard stops and got all the rust off em and seated the pad properly against the rotor..

but now you have to go back to square 1 and bleed the brakes properly..

glad to hear the piston isnt stuck.

when your done rebleeding all 4 corners, start the car, and pump the brakes to build pressure and seat the pad/piston/rotor till you get a firm pedal. go for a drive and do a few light stops, and a few hard stops...

TheDirtyBomb · Post by **TheDirtyBomb** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:05 pm

I did bleed all four corners. I took it for a drive did some hard stops and some some softies. I think I'm going to try and bleed them some more hopefully that will take care of it.

Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it. I have been so stressed out lately its hard for me to think straight. Even when I'm cool and having a good day, MY EYE TWITCHES!

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:25 pm

If your rotors were rusted, it definitely wasn't helping your pedal feel. If they are heavily rusted, I would recommend a clean up pass at a parts store that still turns rotors. The rust will give a bad seat in with the pads.

Not sure if it was mentioned in the bleeding process, but do the rears first, then the fronts. Not sure it really matters which side first, as they all have their own line. It might not matter front to back, but generally, you want to do the farthest ones first. It isn't going to hurt to flush as much through there as you have patience for either. A good flush out for the fronts will do them good.

A vacuum bleeder is nice for flushing fluid, or getting it there, as when you change lines/calipers, But I have always had more success in finishing up with the old fashioned pumping method.

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:37 am

you should bleed, (passenger rear, drivers front), (drivers rear, passenger front)..

they are split into diagonal pairs, that way if something gets fucked in the valving on one side, etc... you still have front and rear brakes..

"when your done rebleeding all 4 corners, start the car, and pump the brakes to build pressure and seat the pad/piston/rotor till you get a firm pedal." THEN go for a drive

TheDirtyBomb · Post by **TheDirtyBomb** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:33 pm

haha yall are funny. I know how to bleed my brakes. However maybe you just helped someone following this thread

.

I just need to adjust my parking brake a bit more and then its all good.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:38 pm

I can tell you that I had an air pocket in my system that took multiple bottles of brake fluid to get out because it made its way near the top of the system. You might need to do it again

furyman67 · Post by **furyman67** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:27 pm

Try gravity bleeding them, see if that works

Tom

TheDirtyBomb · Post by **TheDirtyBomb** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:09 pm

I finished everything up last month. A day after my last post on here. Thanks though.

2GN.ORG

disc swap help please

disc swap help please

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