FastFab Long Tube Header Question

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 3:33 pm

I just got a long tube header form srt4etr. Well it hasa got rust on it. I took care of most of the flange rust. but what should I do about the rust inside the tubes? Can I give it to a machine shop and have them dip it in somthing? Should I jsut take my dremel and clean out what i can reach?

I am going to have the thing ceramic coated so that part will be fine. Here are some pictures of it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/ ... ure001.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/ ... ure010.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c281/ ... ure011.jpg

If you all need any other pictures let me know. Thanks
-Brian

Louie · Post by **Louie** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:29 pm

mine looked like that when it was new. most ceramic coaters will do rusted pieces, they might charge more tho. i know swain says depending on the condition of the piece they may or may not charge extra.

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:34 pm

Well the outside is not rusted at all. So I am sure swain wont charge me more for that part. I was just wondering if the rust onthe inside of the tubes is ok or not. What do you all think about the flange? should I get it machined/dremel till it is nice and flat or jsut go like it is?
-Brian

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 7:09 pm

by the looks of the pics, its not coated....
If it is then my bad, as for the inside of the tubes, there is a liquid primer that turns rust into a primer...sometype of a converter crap. I dont know the name off the top of my head. But once that is done, there is an internal coating that can be used. Most motorcycle enthusiasts use it to protect there headers from blueing. Use some of that and let it cure.
As for the flanges, by the looks of your pics, have a machine shop take off a few thousands of an inch to get everything back to square. You could do it yourself with a good flatboard and some 60 or 80 gritt paper, and of course some time..Just make sure everything is dimensionaly correct...ports,flanges, mounting holes etc...

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 7:46 pm

Never said that it was coated

I'm going to have swain coat it for me though. Should I get the coat first and then let the machine shop do the work? That way the flange will not get harmed at all?
-Brian

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 8:08 pm

do the metal work first

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 8:58 pm

Anyone know of this stuff that BRR is talking about for the inside of the tubes?
-Brian

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 5:44 am

you could always try this:
http://www.moorepower.com/

or for the do it yourselfer...

http://customclassictrucks.com/techarti ... 0312_cerm/

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 7:32 am

mine was like that.. i just dropped it off at the coating place and he said he'd take care of the stripping before it was coated (inside and out)

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 8:41 am

How long of a turn around is it at that shop dawm? Also does your flange look like mine(not nice and smooth)? wain told me it would be about 2 weeks for turn around. The only thing is that he said they would remove the rust and coat the inside to as far as they can see. Is this shop tht you took your to going to coat the whole inside and out? If so and if you like it I might thnk about sending it to them.
-Brian

Louie · Post by **Louie** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:14 am

swain coats the inside as far as they can.

i'd machine your flange. mine wasnt all that true. the only way you'll find a coating that will cover the whole inside is to dip it, but i've never seen a header coating you dip. i would just go with swain. they'll get most of the inside.

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:26 am

Knoxville_R/T wrote:How long of a turn around is it at that shop dawm? Also does your flange look like mine(not nice and smooth)? wain told me it would be about 2 weeks for turn around. The only thing is that he said they would remove the rust and coat the inside to as far as they can see. Is this shop tht you took your to going to coat the whole inside and out? If so and if you like it I might thnk about sending it to them.
-Brian

mines a local shop down the street, they told me a week. im only getting my ceramic coated, if i wanted the jet hot treatment it would have been another week cause they would have to send it out and i figured meh ceramic will be good enough for me.

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 3:53 pm

Ok Here is the deal.
Swain will coat my header for $175. They will clean out the rust and coat the inside to as far as they can see.

Moore will coat my header for $110. and they will acid bathe it for $10. I dont know if they will do both inside and out though.

Jet-Hot will coat it for $187 and that includes both inside and out. Good thing about them is I can ship the header out and have it back in about 9 days. Since there is a place in Mississippi.

All these do not include shipping price though. Jet-Hot will ship my header back to me for free though. All I pay is the shipping to them. All others i pay for it both ways.

What do you all think....The Jet-Hot is looking pretty good right now since it is so close and they will coat both inside and out.
-Brian

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:09 pm

Nobody wants to chime in?

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:27 pm

its your money ;P

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:40 pm

Well I know that, I was just wondering what ppl had to say about those venders.

Oh and I have another question and don't feel like starting a new thread.
I am just gonna go with a 2.5" exhaust when i have this put on. Will I need a flex pipe with this V2 header? Also will I need to get another bung welded in the collector or will it be fine where it is at? Thanks
-Brian

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 11:28 pm

Knoxville_R/T wrote:Well I know that, I was just wondering what ppl had to say about those venders.

Oh and I have another question and don't feel like starting a new thread.
I am just gonna go with a 2.5" exhaust when i have this put on. Will I need a flex pipe with this V2 header? Also will I need to get another bung welded in the collector or will it be fine where it is at? Thanks
-Brian

since im not running a cat, i had another bung welded into the collector.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 9:00 am

tamadrumer where are you, youve done this before...
As for JetHot, stick with them, its pretty bad one of the above companies even told you they would ship it to jethot for coating service.
JetHot is very repudable, and you get what you paid for. Plus in the long run if you ever goto sell the header...its worth more coated

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 12:17 pm

Yeah I will send it off sometime this coming week. Should get it back in about 9 days. But I need to know if I need a flex pipe so while it is there I'll order the exhaust and flex pipe(if needed). That way it can be install when it gets back. I will most likely go with a trubendz 2.5 piping in stainless steel.
-Brian

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 3:08 pm

flexpipe wont hurt any, im ordering one for my setup.

tamadrumr88 · Post by **tamadrumr88** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 5:55 pm

i dont want why i was summoned so i write out EVERYTHING haha.

fastfabs non-magnum ceramic-coated v.1 longtube (3" collector) to a 2.5" reducer. welded to the stock 2.5" b-pipe (right before the clamp where the stock cat had connected to the b-pipe.... only theres no room for a cat now

) and then it goes on to the stock resonator and r/t muffler

im not running a flex pipe however i do have a JLM billet solid upper MM and prothane race inserts in the bottom mm.... can you sat no wheelhop/engine movement

on my v1 im still running the stock coolant overflow reservoir, its not within melting range of the longtube. everything else was either zip-tied away from the longtube and/or wrapped in 3/4" heat sheath

my v1 longtube has an o2 bung in the #4 primary and again in the collector. its great cuz now i have no cat (dont need one for emissions

) and i still dont throw a CEL. the downstream o2 sensor just goes in the collector bung instead of a cat now - i had a friend solder for me 18" onto the stock downstream o2 sensor wires. fits perfectly and the wires are hidden away in the subframe so they wont melt

anything i didnt answer?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 8:59 am

^^^
I called you out to help him since youve been there and done that

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 12:28 pm

newly coated

2000 Degree ceramic coating in jetblack.. nothign fancy, but it looks sweet ;D

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 2:16 pm

looks nice I can't decide if I want the 1300* "chrome" looking one or the matte 2000*.
-Brian

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 6:35 pm

Chrome!!
got to love the bling under the hood

I would not worry about the temps unless your going forced induction, plus the chrome would be easier to clean Vs matte...Oh you dont clean you engine, let alone your exhaust header...oops nevermind..

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 11:51 pm

Me? lol I clean my car at least once a week and the engine at least once every 2 weeks. I am clean freak when it coems to my car.
-Brian

scneonchic · Post by **scneonchic** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 11:57 pm

I like that matte black look...if you get it 'chrome', thats just more work to keep it polished and looking nice, but yet the matte would be hard to keep clean too. Im not much for the blingage

i like the matte black

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 1:20 am

i little bit of blingage wouldn't be too bad... chroming the valve cover: too much

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:39 am