remote starter questions?

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iThane
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remote starter questions?

Post by iThane » Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:33 pm

can i say how much i love this remote starter? its legit. did i mention
i love it? cuz i do. lots.

:dogfuck:

but i have a few questions...

first of all, how do i know what kind of system it is? the remote says
"astra".. i've searched the website and i may have this setup:

http://www.ecarsecurity.com/Astra-4000R ... 4000rs.htm

but it came with one remote from that set, and one remote from
this set:

http://www.ecarsecurity.com/Galaxy-5000 ... 2w-2fm.htm

so i have two remotes.. :-k now, some times i'll start the car and it
stays running until i either depress the brake or gas pedal, unless i
insert the key and turn it to the "ON" position, then i can drive
away without the engine turning off. but other times, i'll start the
car from afar, and as i'm walking towards the car, the engine will
shut off.. it starts itself again, but i'm confused as to why it would
shut off?

the Astra 4000RS system says it has a cold start timer which is
adjustable, but i don't think i've tried starting it while it was cold.
i'll have to try that tomorrow morning, but most starts have been
while the engine is still pretty warm.

these are the only features i could think would cause this:
-Stop & Go Mode
-Selectable Engine Run Time Enable or Disable Remote Start in
Valet Mode
-RPM Pulse Finding Mode Indication
so maybe some of these settings need tweaking?

..is there anyway to find out what system is currently in the car? i
would rather look in common places where people generally set
these things up than pull the whole car apart trying to find it
myself.. and it doesn't say anything about manual transmission
detectors so i'm assuming it can't tell whether the car is in gear
or not.
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Donkeypuncher
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:53 pm

I searched a little bit about that company and it seems to be a popular brand with very few complaints or problems. From what I read it works well with existing factory alarm systems so a lot of shops use it.

Usually they will install the control module under the steering wheel near the ignition wires, I would think a model number would be on that.

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iThane
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Post by iThane » Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:58 pm

i'll have to take a peek tomorrow.. i contacted the company via email to
see if they could help me troubleshoot the issue with the engine
dying after remotely starting the car, so i'm just waiting to hear what
they have to suggest. so far i'm really enjoying the system though :thumbup:
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Fuzzyneon
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Fri Sep 02, 2011 12:41 am

iThane wrote:i'll have to take a peek tomorrow.. i contacted the company via email to
see if they could help me troubleshoot the issue with the engine
dying after remotely starting the car, so i'm just waiting to hear what
they have to suggest. so far i'm really enjoying the system though :thumbup:
your sentry key right?

does it start for a second and turn off?
Member of Spork Racing
2002 Dodge Neon
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iThane
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Post by iThane » Fri Sep 02, 2011 12:57 am

its only sometimes that after i start it that it will turn off after about
half a minute. its only happened like 3 times out of the 9-10 times i
used the remote start today. but it dies for a second, and then turns
back on.. lol
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Caraudioholic24
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Fri Sep 02, 2011 1:51 am

Ok...I've dealt with this system a few years back. So to make this short...it could be a couple of things. I need to know if you installed this or did a professional place do it.

I ask because there are two ways the remote starter sees that the car is running either voltage sensing or tachometer readings. These units were very sensitive to voltage so i always had to hook up the tachometer wire....but if it is voltage there should be an opting of high and low voltage after start...you may want to switch that option and see if it helps.

The company had very crappy customer and technical service. I only offered these to customers who wanted something cheap with no warranty and they were a 50/50 shot of working/ crapping out. Hopefully its just the above mentioned issue and it can easily be fixed...but let's start there and then we can get more into detail on how to fix it...let me know...

Also when it dies does the red light on your dash blink....that means it could also be the coil around your ignition switch from the keybox needs to be readjusted as its picking up the correct signal sometimes and other times it is not...but from what you said above it sounds more like the voltage/tach settings
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2005.Neon.SXT
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Post by 2005.Neon.SXT » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:46 am

Caraudioholic24 wrote:Ok...I've dealt with this system a few years back. So to make this short...it could be a couple of things. I need to know if you installed this or did a professional place do it.
Mike, I think the system was pre-installed by the previous owner when he bought it... at least that's what it sounds like in his other thread.
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Post by iThane » Fri Sep 02, 2011 3:34 pm

2005.Neon.SXT wrote:Mike, I think the system was pre-installed by the previous owner when he bought it... at least that's what it sounds like in his other thread.
troof. it came with the car and i have no receipt showing when it was
purchased or any installation receipt either.

as for how it's wired in, i couldn't tell you. i'll have to locate it and pull
it apart to see how its been wired in. i'll let you know as soon as i
know though.. as for the blinking dash light:

mines blue :rockon:

and i didn't notice if it was blinking or not. i'll have to keep an eye out
for that next time the engine shuts off..
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Post by FAC3L3SS » Fri Sep 02, 2011 3:43 pm

Good thing you have this! I know those winters are brutal.
el. oh. el.

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Post by iThane » Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:10 pm

whats winter?

:lol:

i also just remembered that i have a Lo Jack system installed. i don't
think that has anything to do with the remote start though..
just an interesting fact :rofl:
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LowNSlow
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Post by LowNSlow » Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:17 pm

I thought with sentry key cars, if you start it without the sentry key it'll die a few seconds later?

Anyway you can contact the previous owner and ask him some questions about the alarm?
-John


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Post by Danteneon » Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:40 pm

LowNSlow wrote:I thought with sentry key cars, if you start it without the sentry key it'll die a few seconds later?
It will unless you have either a simulator or an extra key taped up somewhere under the column coner.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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iThane
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Post by iThane » Fri Sep 02, 2011 5:01 pm

i'm going to go see him tomorrow and ask about oil changes and tire
rotation since i don't know when i'm supposed to take care of that lol.
so i'll ask him about the car dying. he said he usually uses the LCD key,
but that the battery was dead. so i replaced the battery, but i haven't
tried starting the car with that remote yet.
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Caraudioholic24
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Fri Sep 02, 2011 9:08 pm

The keypad shouldn't have anything to do with it starting them dying....figure out those two things I mentioned above..

Wish you were closer I'd be more help
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Post by iThane » Sat Sep 03, 2011 2:40 am

well, i haven't had any troubles with the remote start at all today.
i won't be able to pull apart the car until monday/tuesday since i've
got a pretty busy weekend planned.

through customer support however, we were able to determine the
system and i was given a PDF owner's manual. from what i'm
understanding, these were the only system wiring notes:
6-Wire Starter Harness
Pin 1 RED - A: Main Power Input A (+). Connect to the battery or constant power wire at the ignition switch
with a minimum 30 Amp supply. Remove the fuse until the installation is complete and all wiring is
checked.
Pin 2 RED - B: Main Power Input B (+). Connect to the battery or constant power wire at the ignition switch
with a minimum 30 Amp supply. Note: if connecting at the ignition switch it is highly recommended
to use separate power wires for each Red wire, each with a minimum 30A supply. Remove the fuse
until the installation is completed and all wiring is checked.
Pin 3 BROWN: Second Ignition Output (+). The Brown wire provides +12V for a second ignition wire. This
wire may instead be programmed for use as a second accessory or second starter wire.
Pin 4 ORANGE: Accessory Output (+). Connect to the accessory wire coming from the ignition switch that
supplies power to the heater/air-conditioner. Some cars may have multiple accessory wires.
Pin 5 YELLOW: Ignition Output (+). Connect to the main ignition wire that provides +12V when the ignition
is on and while cranking the starter.
Pin 6 VIOLET: Starter Output (+). Connect to the the vehicle’s starter wire.

16-Pin Main Harness
Pin 1 BROWN/WHITE: Horn Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay to activate the vehicle’s horn when the
alarm is triggered. This wire may instead be programmed as an ignition 3 relay trigger.
Pin 2 BLACK/GRAY: Tach Input. Connect to the vehicle’s tach wire or a fuel injector wire if the tachless
mode does not provide satisfactory operation.
Pin 3 BROWN: Siren Output (+) 3A. The Brown wire must connect to the siren’s red wire. The Black siren
wire must be grounded.
Pin 4 GREEN: Negative Door Input (-). Connect to the door switch circuit wire that shows ground when the
door is open.
Pin 5 VIOLET: Positive Door Input (+). Connect to the door switch circuit wire that shows +12V when the
door is open. This type of door circuit is usually found on Ford vehicles.
Pin 6 YELLOW : +12V Ignition Input. The Yellow wire must connect to a main ignition wire at the ignition
harness. This wire must show +12V when the ignition is on and while cranking the starter. The voltage
must not drop when the car is starting.
Pin 7 WHITE/BLACK: Hood Pin Input (-). Connect the to the hood pin switch. The switch must provide a
ground output when switch is opened.
Pin 8 BLACK: Ground Input (-). The Black wire must connect to a solid chassis ground. Clean away any paint
or dirt to insure the best possible ground.
Pin 9 BLACK/WHITE: Dome Light Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to the wire that activates the vehicle’s dome
light, usually the door pin switch wire. (see Green and Violet door trigger wires). Note: Must Use Relay.
Pin 10 WHITE/VIOLET: Factory Disarm Output (-) 500 mA. The Violet/white wire provides a ground output
on disarming and before remote starting to disarm a factory security system. Connect to the wire that
requires a ground pulse to disarm the factory security system.
Pin 11 BLUE/ORANGE: Ground When Running Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to an optional factory security
bypass module if required. Page 18 - Astra 4000RS Series
Pin 12 ORANGE: Armed Output (-) 500 mA. The Orange wire provides a ground output while armed to
activate a relay for starter defeat and anti-grind protection.
Pin 13 GRAY: Auxiliary 1 Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay for an optional feature such as trunk release,
etc. This output may be programmed for momentary, timed, or latched operation.
Pin 14 GREEN/WHITE: Brake Input (+). Connect to the wire that shows +12V when pressing the brake.
The Green/white wire is a safety shutdown wire that must be connected.
Pin 15 WHITE: Parking Light Output (+/-) relay. Connect the White wire to the circuit that shows +12V or
ground only when the parking lights are on and set the internal parking light relay jumper to the proper
polarity. For parking light circuits exceeding 10 amps, a relay is required. For vehicle’s with independent
left and right parking light circuits, diodes must be installed to keep the circuits separate. NOTE: Do
not connect the WHITE wire to the vehicle’s headlight circuit.
Pin 16 RED WIRE: Module Power Input (+). Connect to a constant source of +12V.

Plug-in Connectors
5-Pin White Connector: Two Way Receiver Connector.
4-Pin White Connector: Dual stage shock sensor port.
2-Pin Blue Connector: Valet switch port. Mount program switch in an area that is easily accessible from
the driver’s position.

2-Pin Red Connector: LED port. Mount LED in an area where it may be easily seen from either side of
the vehicle.

3-Pin White Door Lock Connector: Door lock port.
· BLUE WIRE - negative unlock output (-) 500mA.
· RED WIRE - (+) Not used
· GREEN WIRE - negative lock output (-) 500mA.

5-PIN White Remote Start Relay Module: Connect to Remote Start 6 Wire Relay Module
if you care to take a look at the pdf file itself to see if the voltage/
tach wiring were both optional, click here
i couldn't really find much myself.. but i was skimming through..
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Caraudioholic24
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Post by Caraudioholic24 » Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:25 am

If you can get the programming options manual...
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