Possible ATX 3spd problem...
Possible ATX 3spd problem...
I've been experiencing a strange problem as of late with my 2001 3spd ATX. It's a problem I've had before: the car will not shift into 2nd at WOT and will hit the rev limiter, only when I let off will it shift. The first time it happened I adjusted the throttle pressure cable and it fixed it. Now however, it does the same thing, but adjusting the cable only fixes it temporarily. It will hit the limiter, I will adjust the cable, the car will be happy and will shift into 2nd at around 6200 at WOT, but the very next day, it will hit the limiter again. Note that the cable is not slipping out of position, I marked it's position and every time this has happened the mark has not moved.
Is there a specific way I should adjust the cable? Is the cable worn out? Is there another more serious problem here?
Is there a specific way I should adjust the cable? Is the cable worn out? Is there another more serious problem here?
2007 Kia Spectra EX
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Does the trans shift normally when driving normally?
Do a full trans service (fluid/filter change and band adjustment) and be ready to replace the governor valve assembly.
The governor ass'y is on the output shaft and can be replaced by dropping the oil pan and valve body. There's also a small filter behind the governor ass'y that may be plugged.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)
Do a full trans service (fluid/filter change and band adjustment) and be ready to replace the governor valve assembly.
The governor ass'y is on the output shaft and can be replaced by dropping the oil pan and valve body. There's also a small filter behind the governor ass'y that may be plugged.
Jonathan (RopeRat1)
The car has about 76,000 miles on it, the tranny's been through a couple of fluid and filter changes. Except for WOT, it shifts like it's susposed to and dosen't miss a shift. I can adjust the pressure cable and it will shift like normal at WOT at around 6200-6500 RPM afterwards, it just dosen't hold that adjustment and will bounce the rev limiter at WOT the next day, though lifting a little will let it shift into second. I should say that the last two changes of the fluid involved Mercon 5 I believe, though the tranny didn't show any problems after the changes, and it was in very good condition after about 60,000 miles of driving physically. After the first change it shifted like it has always, and hit second at WOT all the way up to now, even with the "evil stuff" in the tranny.
Adjusting the pressure cable always fixes the problem, even several hours after the adjustment, but let it sit overnight and it's like the adjustment never happened.
Adjusting the pressure cable always fixes the problem, even several hours after the adjustment, but let it sit overnight and it's like the adjustment never happened.
2007 Kia Spectra EX
The Internet: Where men are men, women are men, and children are FBI agents.
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- MyNeonSaysHi
- 2GN Veteran
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raul-01
It cannot be his computer hes got a 2001 and his tranny is hydrolically controled. You may have to have someone up the line pressure, which may fix it. You could get an RMVB (Reverse Manual Valve Body) if u wanted to and u wouldent have to worry about it, the rmvb may be for you seeing that ur in WOT a lot lol.Maybe its the computer?

2000 Dodge ES ATX
Spark CAI, Magnum intake manifold with working butterflies, zzapp 60mm tb, magnum header, gutted cat, bosal glasspack, srt axle back, RMVB (Reverse Manual Valve Body), flex-a-lite tranny cooler, and SRT springs.
~ A loss for one, is a win for another ~
Actually, I discovered the problem quite by accident, about 98% of the time I drive normally, and it was my brother that actually did the WOT sprint that uncovered the problem.
It seems real weird how it's happening, I pushed the cable in, marked it's position, and it worked. The next day, it didn't work, so I pushed the cable in further, and it worked again, the next day, it didn't work. I pushed it in one more time, it worked, then it didn't work the next day. After that, I let the cable spring back, then pushed it back to the original position, and it worked again. I haven't checked to see if it's working still at this point.
However, each time I adjusted the cable, it's been while the car is at operating temperature, and the WOT tests the day after were done before the car was fully warmed up. Might have something to do with it, but I'm not too terribly sure.
It seems real weird how it's happening, I pushed the cable in, marked it's position, and it worked. The next day, it didn't work, so I pushed the cable in further, and it worked again, the next day, it didn't work. I pushed it in one more time, it worked, then it didn't work the next day. After that, I let the cable spring back, then pushed it back to the original position, and it worked again. I haven't checked to see if it's working still at this point.
However, each time I adjusted the cable, it's been while the car is at operating temperature, and the WOT tests the day after were done before the car was fully warmed up. Might have something to do with it, but I'm not too terribly sure.
2007 Kia Spectra EX
The Internet: Where men are men, women are men, and children are FBI agents.
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- half_twisted
- 2GN Member
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- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
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- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
drop the pan, remove the valve body, do the DIY shift mod, readjust the bands, put it back together, use ATF3 or ATF4. Then see what happens.
To me it sounds like your trani is on the way out, I had a daytona that did the same thing(same trani) and after the above mentioned, I got another year out of the trani before it finally took a dump..
To me it sounds like your trani is on the way out, I had a daytona that did the same thing(same trani) and after the above mentioned, I got another year out of the trani before it finally took a dump..
Really that bad? I'll probably have Chrysler do the next flush and filter change, they'll use the proper fluid and adjust the bands. It seems wierd that it would be dying, other than WOT it shifts just as well as it always had without missing, and lately it's been sliding into gear pretty smoothly. Still, I'll have a stealership do the next maintenance and see if it makes a difference, it might be reason enough to get a performance valve body from Modern Performance.
2007 Kia Spectra EX
The Internet: Where men are men, women are men, and children are FBI agents.
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OK, an update. I just went outside and checked my transmission fluid while the car was cold (I ran it in the gears for a few seconds, then put it in N when I checked with the car running). On the dipstick, the fluid reached well past the second hole, almost to the third (Hot) hole (keep in mind, the car was stone cold when I did this). An idea that I had been formulating was that the transmission may have had too much fluid in it, as the only way to get it to shift at redline was to turn down the pressure on the cable (where the lever wouldn't move all the way to the left at WOT). Would a near "Hot" reading on the dipstick on a cold car indicate too much fluid?
2007 Kia Spectra EX
The Internet: Where men are men, women are men, and children are FBI agents.
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- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
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- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
Ok, with that in mind, I rechecked after a long drive, and the level is a little above the three holes on the dipstick, but only by a little, so it's probably normal. I'm definitely hoping that the next fluid and filter change with band adjustment fixes this problem, I don't have $1000 laying around that I can spend on this transmission.
2007 Kia Spectra EX
The Internet: Where men are men, women are men, and children are FBI agents.
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