Timing belt snapped / Codes - NOW WITH VIDEO

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 6:25 pm

First off, I've read and I'm still mechanically "special."

I left work, heard a squealing / rumbling / clunking coming from the passenger side. Pulled over, still in the lot, I check my wheel and suspension, nothing there. I write it off, start the car up, and it dies two seconds later. Then it wont start at all. I pull codes, 1684 and 0340. Tug it home like a baws, and let it sit. Replace CPS and still nothing. Tried jumping it, nothing.

I hear the fuel pump, alternator, and there's not a dead "click" from the starter. Everything sounds fine, just won't turn over. Peep through the hole in the timing belt cover while the wife cranks, it's not turning. I'm guessing the belt snapped? Either way, it's sitting and isn't running. I'm 90% certain there's gonna be damage.

What all should I just buy to replace? Valves? Head? Is my cam and springs and whatnot still usable? After little costs, should I just PT two-four swap? Toss me some ideas as to what I'm facing here. I drive 100 miles a day.

EDIT//

Toss on a CPS, yanked timing cover, etc. . . belt is still on. Might have skipped a tooth, may not have, either way the car should still start and it wont.

Ideas? Still the same two codes.

ragek23 · Post by **ragek23** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:15 pm

there is a red 02 for 3400 for sale in my town.......

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:27 pm

If the timing belt snapped, you probably need to replace the valves. Valve springs should be okay. You will also have to replace your timing belt. Might as well do the water pump and tensioner while you are in there Rock Auto sells a kit with everything you need. Plan on a new head gasket as well.

As far as what to do, it depends on what you want, how much time and money you have.

You can probably get some used valves cheap (I have a bunch sitting on my work bench). The timing belt kit is about 100-125. A head gasket set will run you about 85. If you know somebody who can help you, you can probably get everything solved in a weekend for about $300 (including pizza and beer). If you have to pay somebody to do the work it gets a lot more expensive.

Do you just want your car back to running? or do you want more power? Now would be a good time to mill the head, put in a bigger cam, maybe a light port and polish...but that takes more time and money.

If you planned on doing a swap, this would be a good time to do it...but if you are not sure about doing a timing belt, then a swap is over your head...you would be better off buying a different car at that point.

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:31 pm

Just trying to get it running. I just bought an assembled head, so I'm just going to get a gasket, belt, and pump. If I find I need new bolts I'll get them then. Otherwise I just want / like my shit OEM haha. I've got my mechanic who'll let me use his space and tools and be sure to step in if I'm fucking up haha.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:42 pm

FAC3L3SS wrote: I just bought an assembled head

Prolly the best solution to get it back on the road quickly. If it is a quality reman unit all the better. In most cases without the tools, time, and patience, a complete head beats repairing yours.

g_force58 · Post by **g_force58** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:24 pm

I'm with Bill on this one since I have been exactly where you are. I bought a rebuilt head for mine and swapped in a new cam, springs, and rockers/lash adjusters. Downtime was short and everything seems to be fine.

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:54 pm

When I did my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, head, cam, intake manifold, etc. a few months ago, it took me and a buddy about 12 hours including a run to the hardware store and lunch.

The next night we had to tear it about 80% down again to put in the cam seal that was left out and it took about 3-4 hours.

gtownv6 · Post by **gtownv6** » Fri Sep 23, 2011 1:41 am

Ive had so many issues with my timing belt and I have done it on a couple other cars so I can now do a full timing belt and water pump in about an hour and a half total.

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Fri Sep 23, 2011 3:15 pm

Video posted. Wasn't timing belt lulz.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Sep 23, 2011 9:19 pm

Try unplugging the CPS completely. IIRC it will run with no CPS. But not always with a bad one. If it is in the wiring, IDK if no CPS will help.

Was the one you put on new? Did you happen to take a look at the magnet to see if it possibly cracked for some random reason?

It sounds ok as far as compression.

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:50 am

So a bad sensor won't let it start, but unplugging it might?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 7:18 am

So I have read. Oddly enough, I never really gave it a thought to try it out tho.

Haganracing · Post by **Haganracing** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 11:16 am

When my camshaft broke, I had no damage to the valves (other than a little tiny mark on the piston).

You might be safe, but you won't really know until you pull the head off.

Pull the CPS plug out and it should run (if that is the problem.)

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 11:47 am

I'm not too worried about head damage, since the belt never snapped or even jumped (I think).

This is where I sit:

-Coolant is everywhere. Dripping off the oil pan by the passenger front wheel.
-New CPS
-Starter, battery, alternator, etc. . . good.
-Need to check for spark.
-Getting fuel

Next step is unplug the CPS and see if it starts?

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 12:03 pm

FAC3L3SS wrote:
-Coolant is everywhere. Dripping off the oil pan by the passenger front wheel.

Blown head gasket? Coolant in the cylinders, hydrolocking it?

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:10 pm

Possibly. I haven't shit for help to work on it, so I don't know how to check half this stuff, let alone by myself.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:56 pm

The timing belt tensioner could have broke. The timing belt will still be there, still move, but it wont start, even if the CPS is unplugged.

Post by **jonnymopar** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 2:20 pm

FAC3L3SS wrote:I left work, heard a squealing / rumbling / clunking coming from the passenger side.

FAC3L3SS wrote:-Coolant is everywhere. Dripping off the oil pan by the passenger front wheel.

Could be a failed water pump. It's driven off the timing belt.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 8:30 pm

I was thinking bad water pump or blown head gasket.

You could try pulling all the spark plugs and try to turn the motor over with the bolt through the wheel well that holds the UDP on to see if there is coolant in the cylinders

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 11:13 pm

Water pump may have failed causing the sounds, but I doubt there is coolant in the cylinders. It sounds too normal during cranking. If the cam was not turning, it would spin very similar to having the spark plugs out.

It doesn't rule out the possibility of the cam timing being out of sync to the point it won't run tho. Should be a cam/crank sync code tho, not just a P0340.

But if it has fuel, it should be getting spark. Thus making some kind of attempt to either backfire or run...

What is your definition of getting fuel? The fuel pump running doesn't count as much here. Is it injecting fuel? Is it getting spark?

Jerome Adams · Post by **Jerome Adams** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 7:09 pm

I agree about no coolant in the cylinders now that I have heard the video..

I think the water pump is a good call. how many miles on the car?

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 8:46 pm

175k on the car.

Bill, it's funny you mention backfiring. I swapped ASD relay and unplugged CPS for one last college try. Guess what? SUPER slow crank followed by the biggest backfire I've heard from a 4 banger ever. Mom even came outside, heard it over the Colts game. So WTF am I looking at? I'm scared to crank it now.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:15 am

I would seriously consider pulling the timing cover and checking the cam timing at this point. Might want to pull the VC to be sure the cam hasn't broken too. Just for your sanity at least.

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:29 am

Or let it sit where it does. With a FS sign.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:07 pm

That too.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:39 pm

<---- not enthused.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:41 pm

He'll just buy another one in 6 months....

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Mon Sep 26, 2011 3:36 pm

Shush!

I'm going to buy a car like most average Americans probably.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:40 pm

another gay ass lancer?

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:51 pm

With an extra pedal on it!

2GN.ORG

Timing belt snapped / Codes - NOW WITH VIDEO

Timing belt snapped / Codes - NOW WITH VIDEO

Timing belt snapped/codes