HOT tanking Cylinder Head

Notanexit92 · Post by **Notanexit92** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:36 am

Okay, at work (Bojangles), we boil out the frying vats with water and degreaser for about an hour. This removes all carbon and what not, I was going to drop my cylinder head in there to do the same thing, but, the vat heats the water to a minimum of like 225 degrees and it goes up to 400. Would this damage the cylinder head?

garfield3887 · Post by **garfield3887** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:55 am

Not a bad idea! I honestly can't answer your question, but I would think if you kept it at the minimum 225 it wouldn't hurt anything at all. 225 is close to what your coolant is at normal operating temp, and as long as you didn't leave it in there for any prolonged period of time.

I wouldn't recommend offering a side of fries to anyone though...

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:24 am

It depends more on how the degreaser reacts to aluminum. I'm sure those vats are stainless steel. You may end up with a severely corroded piece of aluminum, plus a hella nasty mess to clean up. And possibly a pink slip.

Edit:
IDK if the head would warp being heated to 400º as it should be an even heat, but there are no promises, as it won't be bolted to anything to hold it's shape.

Notanexit92 · Post by **Notanexit92** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 10:55 am

Well instead of using degreaser, is there any other chemical that is safe for aluminum? And yes the vats are stainless steel I believe.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:15 am

Most aluminum parts are media blasted. Hot tanking at machine shops is limited to steel and cast iron parts. The solution in those tanks will dissolve aluminum.

Using Castrol Super Clean, Simple Green, or something of that nature will work, just don't leave it in there for a couple of days. Long enough to get the carbon to a state it can be scraped out/off easier will do. Removing the valves helps with any method of cleaning.

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:19 am

aluminum will withstand temps upwards of 500 degrees farenheit before anealing (going soft)

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 11:36 am

But it will still warp. They warp on the engine at temps much lower than 400º to 500º.

If say it was cooled slowly with the solution it was heated in, it may not warp, but if it was pulled out, and cooled at a faster rate, it could very well be distorted.

Not to the naked eye, but possibly enough to cause the cam to bind, and the HG to fail. Being there are multiple thicknesses everywhere in the head, it will not cool evenly in the open air.

That is why de warping is in a temperature controlled oven to slowly raise and lower the temps. It isn't as simple as just tossing it into a 400º solution, and yanking it out. You are asking for problems.

Notanexit92 · Post by **Notanexit92** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 12:34 pm

Well we also have ovens at work. And a hot water faucet that is at 190 degrees. I could maybe place it in there to cool down. What amount of time would you recommend placing it in the "hot tank"?

garfield3887 · Post by **garfield3887** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 1:12 pm

I the 190 degree faucet one of those high pressure sprayers? If so douse it in some simple green and let it sit a while and then blast the crap off with the sprayer! I know the one at the restaurant I used to work at had enough pressure to cut through a potato with the high temp water... Grease and grime should be no prob for one of those...

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:13 pm

Soak it with your choice of Simple Green, or Castrol, Purple Power For a few hours in a 7 gallon bucket. It can be diluted, using 6 gallons or so is insane. Then head off to a self serve car wash bay, and blast it.

Using heated water in a commercial pressure cooker is over thinking it way too much to clean it.

Hell, I bet a decent machine shop would media blast the entire head for about $20, and it would look almost brand new.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:45 pm

yeah i would also recommend just having it media blasted. when i had my head done thats what they did

Notanexit92 · Post by **Notanexit92** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 1:06 am

I'm not trying to really make it look like new, I just want to make sure all the debris from porting and bits of dirt that is in the oil and water galleries, make their way out before I put this on my car. I just want it to be clean on the inside really. Something to get rid of the varnish and small amounts of carbon in the CC. I dont want to attempt to scrape into that area so I just want to clean it.

Is there a way to make valves look like new? As in no carbon and what not?

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 7:25 am

Notanexit92 wrote: Is there a way to make valves look like new? As in no carbon and what not?

scrub them with a scotch bright pad and some carb cleaner

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:02 am

Since you ported it, this tells me the valves are not installed. (I hope)

A car wash nozzle will blast any debris from the head/guides. It will do a better job at that than a hot tank. As for the valves, you could also soak them in straight Super Clean, and it will practically dissolve any carbon from them.

Depending on the mileage of the head, a basic valve grind/guide check would be recommended while it is currently apart, and off the engine. Then the debris you are worried about will be removed by the machine shop as part of the valve grind process.

Super clean and a scotch bright pad will work wonders on the combustion chambers also. You aren't going to hurt them. A little smoother surface is to your advantage anyways. Less chance of pre ignition.
But yeah blast the parts and passage ways with a car wash nozzle, then compressed air to clean them out. You will need compressed air regardless of how you do it. Don't want any water trapped in an oil passage. Tho carb cleaner may work in a pinch if you don't have access to a compressor.

Notanexit92 · Post by **Notanexit92** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 11:28 am

Yes, the valves are out, and I did lap the valves as well. I did not however replace the valve guides yet. I guess I'll have to get somebody to check those as well.