About to buy 2000 neon

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 5:35 pm

Hi guys. I have a friend of the family offering me a 2000 Plymouth Neon. Its the basic trim with the 16 valve engine. It has 70k miles and a manual transmission. It apparently sat in their yard for eight years as the wife has some emotional connection to the car and wouldn't sell it until now aa they had a baby and don't need three cars.

The drum brakes were seized and have been completely replaced Sewell as the front pads and rotors. They also did an oil change and fixed the broken window crank. It also had the entire clutch system replaced.

What is there to worry about with a car that sat for so long? The red bumpers are very faded. He is asking 1600 dollars. Is this a fair price?

Thank you for your time spent reading this. Happy Thanksgiving!

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:14 pm

First, where is the car located? As in does it snow, or the temps relatively consistent year round? If it snows/has large temp swings, condensation will prolly have rust in places you may not see. 8 years outdoors in a changing climate is hell on a cars body, especially if it was not raised off the ground. Grass growing around it will also hold moisture underneath.

Grease in the wheel bearings may have dried a bit from just sitting there, the valve springs may be weakened on the valves that were open if it wasn't started every now and then. seals may begin to leak, but then they may already have been at 70,000. You may want to change the timing belt/water pump/timing tensioner. It is due at 105,000, but from sitting in the elements, and age, it could fail sooner. The cam sprocket may have rusted also.

I would offer them $1000, (if it is rust free) and use the balance to go through it to freshen things up. If you don't feel comfortable doing the work yourself, it would be close to $600 for a shop to replace the timing components. What you have to look at, is how much an insurance company will pay out if someone totals it. I doubt you would get much more than $1200 for a nearly 12 year old neon with 70,000 miles. But geography does play a pert in the value. Do some research with your insurance company to see what the value would be.

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:26 pm

I live in north east Ohio. I called and asked them and he said it didn't sit the entire time but just most of the time. He claims they out eight thousand miles on it in the last 1o years.

I would feel guilty only offering $1000 honestly. People around here ask 2k for a bonds with twice as many miles. It runs beautifully from what I can tell. We popped the hood the first visit and it was all nice and clean but the oil was a bit dirty and a quart low. I will crawl under her tomorrow and look for rust. Any specific areas to check come to mind?

Thank you very very much for your time spent helping me its a very generous thing to share knowledge and time for free.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:54 pm

Definitely check the K frame, control arms, and rocker panels for rust and possibly holes. There have been issues with them rotting -- viewtopic.php?t=58467

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:10 pm

I asked the seller about this. He said it was never parked on anything but the driveway and that the undercarriage was sprayed with oil numerous times. I myself have never heard or such a thing.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 12:48 am

I've heard of guys that lived near the ocean doing that to their old trucks to prevent rust, salt water is a killer.

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 6:59 am

They use liquid salt mixed in with the regular salt and it can be he'll on cara. I had a piece of shit Taurus I never washed cause I dispised the car so hardly and the entire frame was rusted with the rear wheel wells completely rusted and spread up an out over the body.

I can't.believe the price mentioned earlier. Are cars just more expensive around here? I sold my Taurus 157k miles rusted out suspension gone and blinking CEL from weak compression and random mixture codes I squeezes 800 out if it.

Or do neons just have no resale value? When.I was younger I had a 98 neon automatic and the head gasket went then the atx went out ( I was sixteen and it was cool to neutral slam our cars)

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:11 am

Whatever you do, if you buy the car, change the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner. I know it's a 105k mile part, but just for piece of mind it would be a good idea.

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 8:16 am

I wont replace it yet but financially I will start setting money aside for it. Thanks for the forewarning.

Is there any links to the cheapest bang for your buck mpg/hp upgrades for the 2kforewarning neon?

Were going to get the car, I got him down to 1400.

g_force58 · Post by **g_force58** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:59 pm

the guys here are giving you the best advice you could recieve. Change the timing belt, belt tensioner, and water pump. It will save you a lot of grief and money if you do, if you don't, it will cost a lot in the long run. It's not cheap to change valves, have head work done, then replace the aforementioned parts. I know it costs a lot to have it done, but it costs more than double that if the timing belt breaks. just my 2 cents.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 3:40 pm

Lucanesti wrote:
I would feel guilty only offering $1000 honestly.

Not that it matters now...
Nothing to feel guilty about. It never hurts to try.

I paid $4500 for my '01 in 2004. It had 68,000 on it. It was clean inside and out. Not bad for a 3 year old car. But then the fuel prices hit, and the value of a neon went to ridiculous levels. Unfortunately insurance pay outs didn't match asking prices.

Edit:
viewtopic.php?t=55423

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 4:23 pm

So the belt or pump can't go bad without it doing engine damage? I just don't have the 600 dollars to dump in right now and its not even at 70k yet.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 4:34 pm

Take a day and do it yourself, it's not too difficult, just time consuming. If the pump freezes up it'll break the belt which will bend the valves in the head. same thing if the tensions breaks.

Now I have heard of people going lots and lots o miles on stock pumps and all, but I've had first hand experience (twice) in what happens if the belt breaks. It only took me 4 hours to do the timing belt and water pump on my 95 the last time I did it, but I didn't have ac or ps in the way. The parts are hella cheap too. It's just cheap insurance.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 4:40 pm

If it has been run in the eight years, It wouldn't be as bad. Unfortunately, if the water pump seizes, or the belt breaks, the pistons will take out at least two intake and two exhaust valves at the worst if the belt breaks suddenly. If it slips and keeps going, it will take out all the valves. Occasionally you get lucky, and nothing is damaged. Damn lucky.

There is no simple way to pull the cover to give it an inspection either. You should be good for a little while if it hasn't just sat. If you can save the $ in 10,000 miles you should be good.

Look at the threads for changing the timing belt, to see if it is something you want to tackle, it isn't really as bad as it looks. Just time consuming the first time. The parts can be had from RockAuto.com, or Parts Dinosaur for $100ish. The labor/parts markup is what drives the cost up having a shop do it for you.

Go with the non hydraulic '04 style Litens tensioner that is mentioned.

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:05 pm

Thanks for the information on the upcoming repairs. I've printed a lot of it out for my mechanic. He's not too knowledgeable on neons specifically but he only charges $15 an hour in labor plus parts.

I got the car today. Man I love it so far. It handles like a dream, I love the feel of the shifter.

The k panel or whatever is a little rusty the rest is beautiful. The only problems so far is the air filter box is not coming open the screws just refuse to budge so my neighbor let me use some liquid wrench and I will try that tomorrow as I want the resonator off.

The spark plugs for the neon were too long for my sparkplug socket and my neighbors sparkplug socket as well. Any ideas on this?

Also both back up lights are not working and I believe it has something to do with the wiring from the transmission. Its a manual. Does anyone know what else is on the fuse for the backup lights?

Thank you very much for your time spent reading this. I appreciate it very very much.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:57 pm

Lucanesti wrote: I love the feel of the shifter.

Shifter cable bushings must still somehow be intact.

They tend to fall out on the transmission end.

Lucanesti wrote: The spark plugs for the neon were too long for my sparkplug socket and my neighbors sparkplug socket as well. Any ideas on this?

Are you sure the terminal ends for the wires are not pulled off, and stuck to the plugs? Never had an issue with the plug socket not fitting. You are using a 5/8" plug socket?

Lucanesti wrote: Does anyone know what else is on the fuse for the backup lights?

Rear defroster. The switch on the MTX may be bad, or the bulbs burn't out.

The resonator box on the intake really doesn't need the filter box lid removed to remove it. You need to get it from under the fender. But changing the filter is a good reason to get those screws loosened. The box needs to come off to check the reverse light switch tho.

g_force58 · Post by **g_force58** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:04 am

I use a 5/8 inch sparkplug socket on my 2000 Neon. Are you sure the socket is too long? there is a rubber grommet in the socket that grips the porcelin insulator. Make sure to push the socket down on the plug to get a good grip on the plug. As for the backup lights, my guess would be the reverse light switch is bad or possibly the connections are corroded. The switch is on the transaxle. looking at the trans from the front, it would be on your right at the front of the trans. I don"t think there is anything else in the backup light circuit other than the backup lights and switch. Check the fuse in the power distribution center under the hood for a blown 10 amp fuse. There is a legend inside the lid that identifies the fuses etc. The The PDC is located outboard of the Air filter box close to the shock tower on the driver side. Good Luck.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:15 am

Is the fuse blown/blowing, or they just don't work?

viewtopic.php?t=37966

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:29 am

Just to start it off thank you very much for your detailed and organized replies!

The spark plugs fits fine in the 5/8 socket its an oem champion copper plus which is what one of the guides recommended on one of the sites guides. Yet as soon as I put the ratchet in it pops the plug out! I bet im doing something stupid

The guide for the resonator said to loosen the two bolts then open the filter top and push it out downwards.

About the transmission I was told the "entire clutch system" was replaced at 40k
when they bought it in 03 it had 49k miles already. Then it was drove 29k in eight years mostly sitting the last four

Weathers good tomorrow so I will be out in the daylight under this thing and will check out the taillight thing better. Might upload a few pics but im sure you've all seen a billion stock sohcs

Side notes. Every speaker is blown! Those stock tape player decks most run too much to the stock speakers every single one sounds like wax paper being hit by a hotdog.

I keep shifting it into fifth instead of third

I definitely see how people can cat h the bug. It handles nicely and its just fast enough to make you want to go faster! So much wheel hop though

Im starting to feel some 2gn decals would be nice

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:48 am

If you keep hitting fifth instead of third, the shifter ends may be worn out/missing. Replacement bushings can be had by searching "booger bushings" in the search tab above.

The only way you can get replacements from the dealer is to buy the pair of cables.

The speakers may have just dry rotted, or she just cranked the radio to distortion. Not enough watts and high volume = blown speakers. If you are looking for some inexpensive replacements that sound decent for what they are, Boss Audio will fill the need.

sounds like wax paper being hit by a hotdog.

We don't really need to know.

Wheel hop is prolly the torque struts in need of replacement/upgrade.

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:58 am

Im picky about speakers I wink definitely be getting all new premium speakers. My last neon had Alpine Type R 6x9s with a little 300 watt amp and I loved it.

The shifting is operator error. My dad and cousin took it out and neither had a problem. This is my first stick, I also have no tach so it gets a little iffy haha

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 1:25 am

Meh, I figured since the timing thing was a bit hard on the budget, I would give you a decent option for speakers. while the engine is a higher priority, blown speakers might drive you over the edge before then.

The daughter bought the Boss speakers for her 1gn, under $50 shipped for front and rear. I have to admit, they sound pretty damn good for the price. She has had them for 5 months now, and hasn't blown them yet. (The way she abuses them, I am impressed)

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 1:44 am

Im definitely getting money together for the mentioned repairs. At the same time there's money for speakers and other smaller things that im attempting now. Im fully committed to try and take this car to 200k in style.

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:23 am

Lucanesti wrote:Im starting to feel some 2gn decals would be nice

There 'ya go! And they will add about 10 HP to boot!

Seriously, glad that you are enjoying your new wheels!

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:09 pm

Any idea on these rusted stuck airbox screws? Wd40 overnight didn't work

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 1:49 pm

It happens. It might be easier to drill the screws out or remove the whole system in favor of a cold air intake.

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 2:37 pm

Hmm what are some of the cheaper cold airs that still have acceptable quality?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2005-Dodge ... 129wt_1346

I know it looks bad, but its the only one that's not $200 dollars.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 3:02 pm

Most of those will do the job, but you will want to replace the filter with a K&N, or a Spectre from AutoZone. (The plastic one, it doesn't rust) The K&N is prolly a better option, but is a bit more in price. So figure the Ebay unit plus a K&N, you are going to have $80+ in it.

You could prolly find an air box in the FS section here, for less, if you want to save a few bucks for the time being.

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 3:07 pm

Yeah, I'm just scared of whats in the rusted shut air box. I'm sure if my Neon could talk it would be yelling for me to help it breath.

So autozone will have a better filter to throw on that Ebay CAI? Sounds like a decent idea. Not ideal, but better than what I have now.

Also, I found a 5/8 socket that worked on the plugs. 2 and 4 had oil on them, but my neighbor said its not on the part that does the spark only the porc.

The spark plugs I pulled out had a gap of 55, while the ones I put in were 35.

Lucanesti · Post by **Lucanesti** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 4:32 pm

I saw a guide they on the first gen neons the dohc muffler was better performance for the sohc. Is this true for my 00?