Cooling issues sorta

contagious18 · Post by **contagious18** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:43 am

Well my car was over heating so I changed the thermostat and added coolant since it was low. Now the temperature on the cluster doesn't reach normal temperature and hot air won't come thru the vents. I'm going to flush the system tomorrow and check some sensors but do you guys think it can be something else?

2003se559 · Post by **2003se559** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:46 pm

yes most defenetly is your cf trunk, so you need to sell it asap. let me know how much lolz.

Kelevra · Post by **Kelevra** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 4:48 pm

Thermostat?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 6:00 pm

Either you still have air trapped in the system (No HVAC heat), or the water pump is not circulating the coolant well enough. Maybe the original problem?

It is possible the new t'stat is defective too. But to fail right out of the box would be kind of rare, not impossible tho. Especially if someone cleaned and returned their used one. I wouldn't put it past some ppl.

Pull a rubber line loose enough from the heater tube to bleed any air in the heater core. Just be as gentle as possible, or you may end up replacing the rubber lines, which may not be a bad idea anyways if they are original.

They can stick pretty well. Avoid trying to get them off the heater core side, unless you plan on cutting them. The heater core pipes are soft, and will collapse with too much effort on trying to pull the hoses, without screwing up the hose.

If bleeding air doesn't work, check the t'stat first, as it is still the simplest place to begin.

fattycrack · Post by **fattycrack** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 3:58 pm

ive got this same exact problem..........

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 4:05 pm

I have a similar problem?

My temp guage seems to drop a little when driving, but when stopped at a light it goes back up to where it normally sits?

I sea foamed it a week ago

fattycrack · Post by **fattycrack** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 4:11 pm

mine just will never leave the bottom line while driving and if im sittinf for a WHILE, it will get to half way to normal temp. ive tried getting all the air out and believe i have cuz i bled the core and the engine. new thermostat and leak tested, no leaks.. im lost lol

contagious18 · Post by **contagious18** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:22 am

fattycrack wrote:mine just will never leave the bottom line while driving and if im sittinf for a WHILE, it will get to half way to normal temp. ive tried getting all the air out and believe i have cuz i bled the core and the engine. new thermostat and leak tested, no leaks.. im lost lol

The highest my temperature has read was barely above c. I thinks I have air in the line, my dad kept telling me to be careful as I put the coolant in. I will try bleeding it tomorrow

fattycrack · Post by **fattycrack** » Thu Dec 01, 2011 7:33 pm

FIXXEEEDDD IIIIITTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!! ohk so do you remeber what kind of thermostat you used? if it was a duralast or a cheap vulcraft one it might have little fingers that, for some reason, are put in the thermostat to hold it open after it heats up and wont let it close again when it cools. if you want i can take a pic and show you what im talking about but id rec. changing to a STANT thermostat. fixed it right up for me..

contagious18 · Post by **contagious18** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:37 pm

Yea I am using one of those. So all you did was changed the thermostat and it worked?

contagious18 · Post by **contagious18** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:48 pm

You sir are correct. I just swapped the thermostat for a higher end one and now I get hot air and car goes back to normal temperature. The thermostat that I just put in a week ago was faulty. It was stuck open. Damn cheap stats. I still can't believe it happened to the both of us.

dodgeneonzl · Post by **dodgeneonzl** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:58 pm

I'm having the same problem too... except i get hot air, but the temperature shows just a bit under the 1/4 line compared to before, and the P0128 came up again after resetting it. Except i'm using stant superstat super premium thermostat. Which is supposedly better than the regular stant, did you use the regular stant or the premium one? Maybe i got a faulty one? Or should I downgrade?

contagious18 · Post by **contagious18** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:30 pm

I got a fail safe thermostat it was twice the amount then the valuecraft brand. If I got a new faulty then anyone can.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:15 pm

The Stant SuperStat Themostat out performs the Original Equipment themostat. Unlike the OE themostats that continually open and close to achieve the proper operation temperature and flood the engine with coolant, the Stant SuperStat has a patented V-notch, non linear design that reduces cycling by precisely metering the amount of coolant needed. the V-notch provides a small initial flow. As the engine heats up, the V-notches gradually open wider, metering coolant released into the system until the desired engine temperture is reached. The benefits of proper engine temperature control are: efficient engine operation, prolonged engine life, reduced oil consumption, improved fuel economy and improved emmisions. The SuperStat uses a high flow venturi for maximum cooling capacity during high temperature high load operation, and employes a patented Weir Valve, for percision flow metering during cold weather light load operation, to ensure stable temperature control under all conditions.The power element of the SuperStat is comparable to those used in the heavy duty trucking industry. It employs an actuator piston that is 25% larger than our standard themostat and 55% larger than competitive products. This larger heavy piston duty delivers one and one half times as much power as competitive stats for enhanced durability and longer life. The flange on the SuperStat is 33% thicker than our standerd product and 43% thicker than competitor's themostats for added strength and longer life.The operating spring is 50% stronger than on standard themostats. This helps return the Superstat to the closed position and provent cold running even under the most adverse operating conditions.

That small initial flow may be what is keeping it from hitting normal temp. I have had troubles with just punching a small hole (less than 1/8") in a t'stat. On some engines, even the slightest amount of flow will delay warm up considerably.

fattycrack · Post by **fattycrack** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:28 pm

I'm running the super stant one and it works great for me. Maybe what might be wrong with urs is the temp sensor is bad. If ur getting hot air but reading cold, that's what I would assume.

dodgeneonzl · Post by **dodgeneonzl** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 7:45 pm

i drove it to work today, and engine light is still on but everything else seems to be working just fine with the temperatures reading fine both on my gauge and dashboard... but i went ahead and got another one and also got a brand new gasket.

I'm thinking it might be the gasket. I broke the old gasket and just put it around the new one, so i'm assuming there's probably coolant leaking through the seal (didn't realize it has a gasket... and it was my only car to the store at the time). I will replace and report back

tonight.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:17 pm

It's a wonder it isn't leaking at the housing. They have been known to leak just from re using them, never mind breaking it.

dodgeneonzl · Post by **dodgeneonzl** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:34 pm

Yeah, I always try to be a smartass and always ended up kicking myself...

haha, but anyway, yup, code went away, but now i'm getting P0138... so FML... it's something to do with the O2 sensor, and i just changed my downstream O2 sensor... doesn't mean to thread jack but anyone know P0138 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 is a upstream or downstream sensor?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:44 pm

Bank 1 Sensor 1 is upstream

Bank 1 Sensor 2 is down.

Since we only have one bank of cylinders, it will always be Bank 1

I would give it a day or so. Possibly with it running cooler than normal, it may have been running a bit rich.

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 1:17 pm

bump, got code p0128, runing a new fail safe thermostat from autozone with new coolant and new rad cap. The engine is running cold as hell. I will replace the thermostst

well, I have heat coming from the vents, so idk what to think, any help?

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 10:07 pm

update,

the new "failsafe" thermostat I purchased is junk, was completely jammed open. I dropped it on the ground and it sprung back shut. never again.......