My wish list ... lol

[mjrpaine]

So I am getting my wish list going ... figured

Motor mounts $194.99
http://bwoodyperformance.com/product_in ... cts_id=250

H-brace and traction bars $389.99
http://bwoodyperformance.com/product_in ... ucts_id=33

Bushing Kit $159.99
http://www.modernperformance.com/protha ... -1280.html

Weapon R Engine Torque Damper $161.99
http://www.maperformance.com/weapon-r-e ... srt-4.html

Door sil plates
http://jmbperformance.com/store/product ... ucts_id=87

Maddog STS ... not sure which one yet
http://www.maddogsts.com/pricing.php
Model Reduction Height Price
50-4 50% Stock $100
58-4 58% 1" Lower $100

Roof wing (closest I can find to the one Mike has) $141.55
http://www.ilovebodykits.com/product/55 ... _Wing.html



Mopar stage 3 coilovers ... if available ... lol

Oil catch can

already have an ACT clutch installed ... just need some info on what to do with the tranny next ...

and a few things I have yet to find ... lol


Any input is greatly appreciated ...

[chew*]

Add a billet shift selector to the mix.

Also cryo treated shift fork will save you headaches down the road.

[JeffM]

- Motor Mounts - good choice
- H-brace - good choice
- Bushing kit - good choice
- Weapon R Engine Torque Damper - Skip it. You'll have solid mounts, an H-brace, and polyurethane bushings already. You're gains would be minimal at best.
- Door sills - Meh. Useless mod unless you constantly step on your door sill (BAD).
- Maddog STS - I went with a 50% and love it. Coupled with boogers and solid cradle bushings it's solid. Others will tell you 82% or die.
- Roof wing - Meh.
- Mopar Stage 3's - Good choice
- Oil catchcan - Find one that doesn't have a viewing sight or extra ports. They are just other things that cause vacuum leaks. I believe Bwoody makes just a plain catchcan.

[mjrpaine]

Shift selector $140.99
http://www.maperformance.com/werks-bill ... -srt4.html

Treated TOB $295.00
http://www.pt-performance.com/showProdu ... =5&pID=138

Thanks Chew.

- Motor Mounts - good choice
- Weapon R Engine Torque Damper - Skip it. You'll have solid mounts, an H-brace, and polyurethane bushings already. You're gains would be minimal at best.
- Door sills - Meh. Useless mod unless you constantly step on your door sill (BAD).
- Maddog STS - I went with a 50% and love it. Coupled with boogers and solid cradle bushings it's solid. Others will tell you 82% or die.
- Roof wing - Meh.
- Oil catchcan - Find one that doesn't have a viewing sight or extra ports. They are just other things that cause vacuum leaks. I believe Bwoody makes just a plain catchcan.

Jeff,
The Damper is more for looks to me ... just to mess with people when they look under the hood. The door sils are for looks also ... just my preference ... and the same with the roof wing. With the shifter ... thats still up in the air ... not sure because I might like it being a little shorter. Thanks for the info of the catch can ... I will look for that. Also ... I forgot about the boogers ... are they the strongest? and where do I get the cradle bushings?

[JeffM]

The boogers are the preferred brand here. Buy them directly from JeffB here, instead of going through a middle-man like Modern.

There are a couple other options for shifter bushings (solid and ball-bearing) but the gains are minimal.

As for the solid cradle bushings, I believe you have to get in contact with esteinmaier now. I have them on my car and it definitely gives the shifter a much more planted feel.

[chew*]

Your also going to want to invest in lots of liquid wrench or similar for the bushing kit.

Rear strut arm = bolts break

Rear trailing arms = bolts break

Rear sway where the bolt up to chassy = bolts break

Front K frame bolts = break or strip

All of the above except the K frame = alot of crying.

[mjrpaine]

liquid wrench

NO NO NO .... BAD BAD BAD ...

PB Blaster .... thats good .... and the set of torches in the garage help too ... lol

[JeffM]

While we're on the subject of bolts breaking....

The swaybar endlink bushing bolts will most likely need to be cut off with a grinder. Their design is less than perfect if they've seen one New England winter. So make sure your bushing kit comes with the full endlink assembly (I believe the Prothane one does).

[mjrpaine]

according to the picture .. it does ... but my luck they will forget to put them in when they send it ... lol

[LilSparkPlug]

Don't waste your cash on the H-brace and traction bars just yet, you don't need them. I don't have them and do just fine without them. Unless you're making the car more for track they'll just get in the way when you're doing other things.

Weapon-R torque damper isn't so much overkill as it is unnecessary, you really only need the damper with stock mounts or the aftermarket mounts w/out damper. Save the cash there and put it elsewhere.

As for your shifter, mine is a 50% maddog, it has a VERY short rod due to the design, so if you liked mine (and can recall it from the Quabbin meet) go with the 50.

Oil catch can: For me it's AGP oil accumulator or bust. It's a three chamber system designed to separate water, oil and air. It's really super nifty and works better than any catch can I've ever had on my car. Pricey, but worth it.

I personally wouldn't worry about the shift fork or TOB until it's time to do the clutch again but that's my personal preference. As for the shift selector you could definitely snag that now and install it without an issue. Booger bushings are awesome and JohnnyMopar solid cradle bushings for the shifter.

For the suspension bushings go with Prothane, easier to install and same longevity as the ES. Stage 3s can be had used all over the place since most people want to "slam" their cars and opt for different coilovers that allow that. IF you cannot find them...go with KW, the Mopars are made by KW and although the KW's have a slightly stiffer ride they are still INOX stainless steel, lifetime warranty and full of win.

[chew*]

I personally wouldn't worry about the shift fork or TOB until it's time to do the clutch again but that's my personal preference.

I wouldn't go as far as not to worry about it, it's been said by many that it is the leading cause of why the syncs strat going, can't push clutch in all the way due to 1/8 metal gone = 3rd gear syncro grind and snowball effect from there.

I know it sux to have to pull trans but it sucks even more to rebuild it.

Those forks stock are good for about 30K with a stock clutch.....uncanny timing considering thats about when 3rd gear starts acting up.

Ive got 2 with exactly 30K sitting here, there is over 1/8" play between that and the throw out bearing.

[LilSparkPlug]

MJR has a T-850 not the T-350 so they are considerably stronger although the forks can be weak. DCR does have a fix for this although nothing truly "fixes" it as when you strengthen one component the wear will occur somewhere else. In this case the TOB. However these new upgraded forks have only been available less than a year so their longevity is still uncertain.

I have 128k on my T850, all internals are stock. Fluid changes every 10k before and now since I don't daily the car they are changed yearly with Mopar ATF+4 and FM. Replaced the stock clutch at 80k (had plenty of wear left) along with the slave, fork, pivot ball and TOB with a Mopar Performance clutch. ~50k later I'm not in need of a replacement yet unless of course I want to make more power on the dyno.

For what he's looking to do there are other, more detrimental modifications that can be done first while he daily drives the car. Then, once he has a firm basis he could look into the replacement. However....depending on when he replaced his clutch with the ACT, he will have ACT's fork and bearing in there which have an entirely different lifeline than stock.

[C1DoG]

Question..... Why is this in the neon meets /automotive events thread when it more than likely needs to be put somewhere like the projects thread? Just asking...

[LilSparkPlug]

I'm guessing cause MJR was so excited by the meet thread he just posted another one in here and this will eventually turn into a "wrench meet" thread.

[C1DoG]

I'm guessing cause MJR was so excited by the meet thread he just posted another one in here and this will eventually turn into a "wrench meet" thread.

[chew*]

MJR has a T-850 not the T-350 so they are considerably stronger although the forks can be weak.

It's when you run a non stock clutch and I was referring to T850, the T350 has no issues with this.

It's not cast like the T850. The TOB has a stainless steel ring that rides on the cast iron bumps on fork.

Stainless>Cast + higher exertion needed for say a stage 3 CM = junk fork in 30K. While nothing was available to the public some people were sending them out for cryo treating. Proven on the same setup well beyond 30K now.

Pics of the ones I have removed from trannies at 30K with non stock clutches and 3rd just starting to act up.

CM stage 3 for both.



TOB with 60K after 2 shift forks wore out....it's polished shiny but no wear.


And the 2 shift forks with 30K each.

[LilSparkPlug]

It has been stated that the cryo treating does not help and they wear down just as fast. At least in the threads that I've found it did. Look up DCR's service, they weld stronger pieces to the worn down areas of the fork (requires a used fork to do this along with a $150 ish dollar charge) for more strength.

Another company just came out with a billet one (SNL down in TX), but it's still too early to tell if that will last just as long, or cause premature wear of the TOB itself over time.

[chew*]

hmm interesting. My buddies was fine after 50K after cryo treating no clue on longer as car was sold by then.

It's very possible some companies sell a cryo service that is not a real service.....some think you can just dump ln2 on them keep them submerged then let them come back down to temp on there own.

The correct way is to cool down 1 degree per XXX time then hold it at max temps for XXX time then cool down 1 degree at a time....

Since ln2 is extremely hard to control equipment to do this is costly.

I'd go out on a limb to say many offering the service may not have the equipment they claim to have.

[LilSparkPlug]

I would have to agree with you as that being the potential reason those forks wear just as fast. My OE fork had 80k on it before it died guess it depends on the car/owner combo also because I know some people who can't even get 5k out of them.