2005 SXT 5sp manual Idling a lot (no codes)

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons… just anything that is generally "engine" specific. This also includes questions about exhaust systems such as exhaust manifolds, piping size, mufflers, ect...
Post Reply
Silver-Shadow
2GN Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:57 am
Location: Southern California

2005 SXT 5sp manual Idling a lot (no codes)

Post by Silver-Shadow » Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:39 pm

No, no codes. Just idles bad at stop lights. Jerks a bit. One strange thing is when I move from 1st to 2nd gear (5sp manual) I hear some kind of whirrring sound. The engine sounds like it's over revving then falls back to normal.

Since I just got the car a couple weeks ago, I am thinking of taking it to a shop to have them go over it a bit. Have them do the:
>oil change
>set timing
>check alignment
>filters under the hood ( I can do this)
>maybe a pressure test? (no real reason to do this just think it will tell me something)

The car runs great only 96k on it. I love driving it. It starts every morning without fail and no codes thrown so far. I have driven it more than 200 miles since 2 weeks ago. Mostly driving from Northen Sonoma county here in California. The clutch I think needs the boooger bushing fix. To loose for me. I am used to a tighter shifter with very little play.

Anyone know of a good shop here in San Jose area chime in. Thanks
Image
PS2 SXT - New baby
08 530i e60 M5 Kit - Sold
E39 M5 - BlueMajik (Safely tucked away in the garage)
E39 528i - Sold at 167k miles
Yellow '77 Plymouth Volare (RIP)
skypeme: dtvarnum
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #?

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 20067
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:21 pm

Timing cannot be set. When you are changing from 1st to 2nd, this is with the car not moving, and the clutch is still pushed in?

The sound you hear could be the 1-2 synchro, and the clutch may not be fully releasing. Could be why the idle is rough. Otherwise I see no other reason why moving the shifter would cause the idle to change.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Silver-Shadow
2GN Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:57 am
Location: Southern California

Post by Silver-Shadow » Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:28 am

when I am at a stop the idle is very rough (for me it's rough). When I move from the signal and start releasing the clutch feels like I may stall. Trying to figure if I need new clutch or not. Shifts fine (just need my boogers). Get's off the stop ok, but just have that spit/sputtery feel. If not timing (yeah I am old school) then I am thinking has to be clutch related.
Image
PS2 SXT - New baby
08 530i e60 M5 Kit - Sold
E39 M5 - BlueMajik (Safely tucked away in the garage)
E39 528i - Sold at 167k miles
Yellow '77 Plymouth Volare (RIP)
skypeme: dtvarnum
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #?

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 20067
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:39 am

I would start more with a good tune up: Spark plugs, plug wires, clean the IAC valve on the TB. Maybe Seafoam it, or Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. use the search button for seafoam for details if you are not familiar with it.

If it is only doing that when in motion, and not stationary, I don't think it is the clutch.

Depending on how the previous owner drove it, the clutch can last for another 40,000+ miles or it could fail much sooner. Mine lasted around 125,000. I think the pressure plate cracked. (I haven't gotten around to taking it apart to see. It had "shredded wheat" clutch disk material in the bell housing)
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Silver-Shadow
2GN Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:57 am
Location: Southern California

Post by Silver-Shadow » Fri Dec 30, 2011 12:22 pm

[Maybe Seafoam it, or Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. use the search button for seafoam for details if you are not familiar with it.

Wow, watched some utube vids of seafoam (pretty funny) however boy seems like tough on engine, but will give it a try plus the plugs today. I am off in the morning.
Image
PS2 SXT - New baby
08 530i e60 M5 Kit - Sold
E39 M5 - BlueMajik (Safely tucked away in the garage)
E39 528i - Sold at 167k miles
Yellow '77 Plymouth Volare (RIP)
skypeme: dtvarnum
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #?

occasional demons
Junior Admin
Posts: 20067
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Ashland Ohio

Post by occasional demons » Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:14 pm

Most folks do it right before an oil change, and replacing the plugs. I haven't had a problem with it harming the plugs tho. You want to let it soak for as long as possible to do a better job.

The extreme version of it is to warm it up, run it through, pull the plugs and fill the cylinders, turn over by hand to get the excess out, and get a good soak on the exhaust ports.

Let it set overnight. Then put some rags over the plug holes and crank it to expel any that would hydrolock the engine. Clean the plug tubes with carb cleaner, install the old plugs and run it. Then install fresh plugs w/antiseize and fresh oil once it clears out.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Silver-Shadow
2GN Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:57 am
Location: Southern California

Post by Silver-Shadow » Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:32 pm

Thanks Mr. One World. I put some Lucas Cleaner in after work and it helped the idle problem a bit. I also picked up some plugs. Will install next week. Have to find some wires too. Will do the oil change as well and the thermostat just for good measures (it's actually cold here in California).
Image
PS2 SXT - New baby
08 530i e60 M5 Kit - Sold
E39 M5 - BlueMajik (Safely tucked away in the garage)
E39 528i - Sold at 167k miles
Yellow '77 Plymouth Volare (RIP)
skypeme: dtvarnum
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #?

User avatar
a23dranger
2GN Member
Posts: 1059
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:07 pm
Location: Lehigh Valley PA

Post by a23dranger » Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:09 pm

check the motor mounts. my brother 05 had 72k when he got it. mounts where bad and it felt like the idle was bad and it made it a little hard to pull out with and such. same thing the shifter bushings. they where half way gone.. we put agp motor mounts in. boogers and shes fine now. also under the dash there is an 8mm bolt on the clutch pedal. you can loosen it and adjust the pedal. slightly. might give you the extra you need.
96 ranger 5.0,4wd,atx swap, jd lift and more, oem+
98 ACR 67k
01 ACR-R/T

Post Reply

Return to “Engine”