VAC/BOOST Autometer ES

Public Disturbance · Post by **Public Disturbance** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 2:10 am

Ok guys I picked up a Autometer ES vac/boost gauge and was wondering where the best place to put in the "tee" at I was thinking either in the PVC to intake mani vac line or the Booster to intake mani vac line as they are about the only places I can see I could put it that it would get a vac signal. This is a 2.0 by the way

silverneontuner · Post by **silverneontuner** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:29 pm

i say booster to intake

Public Disturbance · Post by **Public Disturbance** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:57 am

Who else has ran a vac/boost gauge like that

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 11:19 am

I doubt anyone has hooked up a vac/boost gauge on a NA car. Or if they have, they won't admit it.

If all you want to do is watch your needle move, tap into one of the vac lines coming off the manifold. Don't tap into your PCV line by mistake.

Public Disturbance · Post by **Public Disturbance** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:17 pm

Danteneon wrote:I doubt anyone has hooked up a vac/boost gauge on a NA car. Or if they have, they won't admit it.

If all you want to do is watch your needle move, tap into one of the vac lines coming off the manifold. Don't tap into your PCV line by mistake.

Well Im doing it on a NA car and I will admit it lol
1 because i plan on going turbo
2 vac is something you should be watching anyways

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 2:40 pm

Public Disturbance wrote:1 because i plan on going turbo

OK, I can see that.

Public Disturbance wrote:2 vac is something you should be watching anyways

Why is that?

Public Disturbance · Post by **Public Disturbance** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:04 pm

for vac leaks duh

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:06 pm

On a stock NA car? No. Tell me, what would the vacuum gauge read if one had a leak?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:34 pm

A better way to detect a vacuum leak would be to pay attention to how the engine runs. if it has a high idle, it may have a vacuum leak. A major vacuum leak will be very obvious. The engine would cut on/off at 3000 rpm plus. A small leak, that may raise the idle prolly wouldn't be noticeable on a vacuum gauge.

A better answer/function for a vacuum gauge would be diagnostic purposes. A fluctiating reading at idle points to a bad intake valve seal. (not the oil seal), or a severe sealing problem with one of the cylinders. Overall low vacuum at idle could mean all the cylinders are worn out. But usually when it is bad enough to show on the gauge, it is apparent by sound or performance. The gauge is just a way to confirm or eliminate.

You could use it as a tool to improve fuel economy, by keeping manifold vacuum as high as possible, but again, a little common sense there, works just as well.

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 5:37 am

Danteneon wrote:I doubt anyone has hooked up a vac/boost gauge on a NA car. Or if they have, they won't admit it.

I have on two cars. Admitted. I don't understand why it would be so...embarrassing/ridiculous that people wouldn't want to admit it? Why do you need a 5", 10,000 RPM tach in a street car? That's more useless than a vac gauge, yet they are in A LOT of cars.

gtownv6 · Post by **gtownv6** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:44 am

Vacuum gauges are also monitored for fuel efficiency. While a boost gauge isn't needed on an NA neon, a vacuum gauge isn't a bad idea.

Post by **jonnymopar** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:15 pm

gtownv6 wrote:Vacuum gauges are also monitored for fuel efficiency. While a boost gauge isn't needed on an NA neon, a vacuum gauge isn't a bad idea.

This. Sure, you can use common sense in your driving habits if you're main goal is fuel efficiency, but a vacuum gauge will help you quantify it.

In regards to the original post, the brake booster vacuum line is quite possibly the most crucial vacuum line in your whole car. Best not to mess with it. Find somewhere else to tap into.

Public Disturbance · Post by **Public Disturbance** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:43 pm

jonnymopar wrote:
gtownv6 wrote:Vacuum gauges are also monitored for fuel efficiency. While a boost gauge isn't needed on an NA neon, a vacuum gauge isn't a bad idea.
This. Sure, you can use common sense in your driving habits if you're main goal is fuel efficiency, but a vacuum gauge will help you quantify it.

In regards to the original post, the brake booster vacuum line is quite possibly the most crucial vacuum line in your whole car. Best not to mess with it. Find somewhere else to tap into.

Well out of the whole 2 vac lines I have been able to find on the Neon I have told not to mess with either the PCV to Mani and the Booster to Mani

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:15 pm

I had one. Helped me reference vacuum for tuning purpose when I didn't have my laptop on. Ran it off the booster line.

titansxt · Post by **titansxt** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:56 pm

Danteneon wrote:
Public Disturbance wrote:2 vac is something you should be watching anyways
Why is that?

Watch your throttle, save gas.

Use you booster line.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:08 pm

jonnymopar wrote: the brake booster vacuum line is quite possibly the most crucial vacuum line in your whole car. Best not to mess with it. Find somewhere else to tap into.

Agreed.

Tee into one of the HVAC feeds from the brake booster connector.

They are closer to the size needed, and if one fails, you will not have a huge idle problem, and your brakes will still function as expected.

If you have ever lost vacuum to the booster, you would know on a neon, the brakes are basically non existent, especially when you are not prepared for the result. Do not tee into the booster line directly.

The reason for not using the PVC line, is it already has a huge vacuum leak at one end. Your vacuum reading will not be too accurate.