Forged internals
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esteinmaier
- Supporting Vendor
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Forged internals
I'm getting confused here. To swap out pistons and rods to something that can handle more boost, how hard is this? A friend tells me to pull the motor and send it to a machine shop. And then I see people on here saying pull the oil pan and slide em in. Can someone clarify? My plan is a hahn stage 2, with boost turned up quite a bit. Also, any recommendations for what brand and part numbers for both would help.
- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
ok nOOb
The last motor I did was a TurboII in my daytona. Stock it had forged internals and I threw in some KeithBlack pistons($180).
Since the motor is internally balanced I tried a lil trick. I mounted the pistons to the rods and took them over to a paint mixing scale the read as low as .001 grams. I then continued to weight balance them buy removing some metal EVENLY on the rod cap and rod, the bulkiest sections of it, then coninued to polish them and once I got them all within .030 grams of each other I installed them into the motor.
Its not just a slip in as some people might say, the head WILL have to come off the motor since the cylinder bores are tapered to where you cant just slide them out the bottom.
Im not saying this is the proper way of doing it, but the motor survived rev limiter blasts and peaks of 30+psi of boost without any problems.
The last motor I did was a TurboII in my daytona. Stock it had forged internals and I threw in some KeithBlack pistons($180).
Since the motor is internally balanced I tried a lil trick. I mounted the pistons to the rods and took them over to a paint mixing scale the read as low as .001 grams. I then continued to weight balance them buy removing some metal EVENLY on the rod cap and rod, the bulkiest sections of it, then coninued to polish them and once I got them all within .030 grams of each other I installed them into the motor.
Its not just a slip in as some people might say, the head WILL have to come off the motor since the cylinder bores are tapered to where you cant just slide them out the bottom.
Im not saying this is the proper way of doing it, but the motor survived rev limiter blasts and peaks of 30+psi of boost without any problems.
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unsuper man
- 2GN Member
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- Location: Orlando, FL
if you want to leave the block in you can. you remove the HEAD AND OIL PAN. but your block most be in great condition. then you get standard bore pistons, new rings, bearings, and rods.
unbolt the rods bolts from where the oil pan use to be, then remove the rod cap, and push the whole deal out word. then assemble the new pistonrod/rings, add a bearing to the rod, slide it down, throw on the rodcap and bearing, and tighten.
as far as everything else, you know to little it seems, for me to bother explaining. so do your turbo research.
unbolt the rods bolts from where the oil pan use to be, then remove the rod cap, and push the whole deal out word. then assemble the new pistonrod/rings, add a bearing to the rod, slide it down, throw on the rodcap and bearing, and tighten.
as far as everything else, you know to little it seems, for me to bother explaining. so do your turbo research.

- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
^^^
thanks, I forgot to mention that the motor I did was all STD bore, no damge,warping,scrapes etc...
Use a DialBore gauge to check the cylinder walls, if its towards the tight side of OE specs than you can just drop in and go. I still would HIGHLY recomend the weight matching though!
Also make sure you setup the endgaps of the rings to the proper usage, NOS,Turbo, N/A...etc.. I went by KeithBlacks recomendations for high boost and everything was perfect.
If so far you dont understand anything that has been mentioned, then DONT do it yourself, send it to a reputable machine shop to have it done.
thanks, I forgot to mention that the motor I did was all STD bore, no damge,warping,scrapes etc...
Use a DialBore gauge to check the cylinder walls, if its towards the tight side of OE specs than you can just drop in and go. I still would HIGHLY recomend the weight matching though!
Also make sure you setup the endgaps of the rings to the proper usage, NOS,Turbo, N/A...etc.. I went by KeithBlacks recomendations for high boost and everything was perfect.
If so far you dont understand anything that has been mentioned, then DONT do it yourself, send it to a reputable machine shop to have it done.
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esteinmaier
- Supporting Vendor
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- Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2005 3:40 pm
It's a stock sohc at less than 20k. And yes, I have a lot to learn. That's why I'm going with a kit instead of diy on the turbo. Got a few friends that know much better than I, and that's where I heard the "Pull the engine, throw it in my truck, and we'll take it to a machine shop". I think I agree with him until I get the hang of everything better. Btw, does anyone know what I should look for in a machine shop to get this done? Or does bob's motor fix-it shop do a good job in most cases?
- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
dude dont go there... lol
seriously tho, take it to a shop that knows sport compacts (probably NOT bob). i dont think any franchise auto places do machine work, so you'll have to hope you have a local pro who knows their shit. let a professional decide what u need as far as internals, based on the turbo you plan on running. the hahn kit aint gonna be great for huge boost condiering the things the size of a dang can of tuna and the intercooler supplied aint big enough to cool down super hot exhuast from a hi boost application. and you wont need forged slugs/rods/etc to run the lower boost that hahn probably suggests for their kit. of course if you plan on upgrading the turbo, IC, fuel system etc, then better internals are a must. If u have the $$, go straight to a turbo specialty shop that can fab a custom setup for you and u wont have to do a damn thing. Turbo=money, but money=performance. its up to u. just keep it away from bob lol jk
dc
seriously tho, take it to a shop that knows sport compacts (probably NOT bob). i dont think any franchise auto places do machine work, so you'll have to hope you have a local pro who knows their shit. let a professional decide what u need as far as internals, based on the turbo you plan on running. the hahn kit aint gonna be great for huge boost condiering the things the size of a dang can of tuna and the intercooler supplied aint big enough to cool down super hot exhuast from a hi boost application. and you wont need forged slugs/rods/etc to run the lower boost that hahn probably suggests for their kit. of course if you plan on upgrading the turbo, IC, fuel system etc, then better internals are a must. If u have the $$, go straight to a turbo specialty shop that can fab a custom setup for you and u wont have to do a damn thing. Turbo=money, but money=performance. its up to u. just keep it away from bob lol jk
dc
-Derek
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just busting you balls..orangeblastsxt wrote:dude dont go there... lol
seriously tho, take it to a shop that knows sport compacts (probably NOT bob). i dont think any franchise auto places do machine work, so you'll have to hope you have a local pro who knows their shit. let a professional decide what u need as far as internals, based on the turbo you plan on running.
hehe not many choices in internals..lmao
the hahn kit aint gonna be great for huge boost condiering the things the size of a dang can of tuna
the super 16G turbo has seen 400whp...
and the intercooler supplied aint big enough to cool down super hot exhuast from a hi boost application.
i dinit know the intercooler cools the exhuast.. why would it need to do that? i thought it cooled the hot compressed air going into the engine not leaving...
and you wont need forged slugswtf are slugs? do you mean pistons?
/rods/etc to run the lower boost that hahn probably suggests for their kit. stage1 you wont need to upgrade cept the clutch stage2 you might last some time anything higher goodluck hope you got the money to rebuild your bottom end
of course if you plan on upgrading the turbo, IC, fuel system etc, then better internals are a must. If u have the $$, go straight to a turbo specialty shop that can fab a custom setup for you and u wont have to do a damn thing.
most "ethusiast" prefer to do there own work.. its just one of those things
Turbo=money, but money=performance. remeber are ebay cai thread? its up to u. just keep it away from bob lol jk
dc
bad01neon wrote: obviously the 10 year old consented, so its ok lol
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esteinmaier
- Supporting Vendor
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- Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2005 3:40 pm
Maybe I can ask around the local boards and see who knows what about machine shops. My plans are as follows:
Install stage 1 Hahn kit, run at 4-6 psi
Upgrade clutch after I burn the stock one up. I give it a week.
Open the exhaust to 3"
Upgrade to stage 2, run at 7-8 psi
Buy forged internals and send it to the machine shop to fix her up
Tune it and run around 15-18 psi on same intercooler and 16g.
My goal is 300whp. If I can run less boost and hit the same numbers, I'll do that. Pump gas all the time.
Install stage 1 Hahn kit, run at 4-6 psi
Upgrade clutch after I burn the stock one up. I give it a week.
Open the exhaust to 3"
Upgrade to stage 2, run at 7-8 psi
Buy forged internals and send it to the machine shop to fix her up
Tune it and run around 15-18 psi on same intercooler and 16g.
My goal is 300whp. If I can run less boost and hit the same numbers, I'll do that. Pump gas all the time.
wow checked into the prices...4 grand for stage two.. thats to run 9psi with an intercooler and a 2 1/4 DPadd the amount to get internals and new clucth and axles... i say go for srt4 swap...esteinmaier wrote:Maybe I can ask around the local boards and see who knows what about machine shops. My plans are as follows:
Install stage 1 Hahn kit, run at 4-6 psi
Upgrade clutch after I burn the stock one up. I give it a week.
Open the exhaust to 3"
Upgrade to stage 2, run at 7-8 psi
Buy forged internals and send it to the machine shop to fix her up
Tune it and run around 15-18 psi on same intercooler and 16g.
My goal is 300whp. If I can run less boost and hit the same numbers, I'll do that. Pump gas all the time.
bad01neon wrote: obviously the 10 year old consented, so its ok lol