Question on painting

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Fri Apr 27, 2012 8:15 pm

Since the lip kit is already painted black, how should I go about painting it? Sanding down with 600 grit, priming then paint?

ThatKevin · Post by **ThatKevin** » Fri Apr 27, 2012 9:29 pm

just a question but you're taking it off to paint right? :S

a23dranger · Post by **a23dranger** » Fri Apr 27, 2012 9:55 pm

if its a brand new lip and your prepping it to paint it a new color. 600 it, gray scuff pad the tight areas and even over the whole thing. then paint and clear it. when cars get blended or paint sprayed over original un damaged panels they do the same thing

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 1:19 am

a23dranger wrote:if its a brand new lip and your prepping it to paint it a new color. 600 it, gray scuff pad the tight areas and even over the whole thing. then paint and clear it. when cars get blended or paint sprayed over original un damaged panels they do the same thing

yeah brand new, okay cool. do I need to get some sort of rub with the scuff pad, or just do it dry?

mjrpaine · Post by **mjrpaine** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:42 pm

I use 400 wet sand paper over the whole thing, the a red scuff pad wet over it. Then paint and clear. The only thing that should need any primer is if you break thru the clear coat layer or if you have chips to fix.

Red scuff pads are around the same as 320 grit sand paper dry and 500 - 600 grit paper when wet (better to put paint over).

Gray scuff pads are around 800 grit paper dry and 1000 - 1200 wet (better for putting clear coat over).

Ive been doing body work for almost 20 years and thats exactly how I prep new panels for paint.

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:13 am

How about after clearing? Should I wet sand after a week then buff?

mjrpaine · Post by **mjrpaine** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:28 am

Depending on your quality of work, and the environment it is painted in ...

If its done in an actual paint booth with heat lamps ... it usually does not need sanding and buffing unless you get a run in the clear. If you do, then it can be done the next morning.

If your doing it in your garage and the temp is still cool outside ... then give it a couple days to cure enough from the weather.

BUT ... remember this one thing ... DO NOT wax it for at least a month. It takes nearly that long for all the chemicals to gas out and cure. If you wax it before that time ... you are then locking all the vapors in and not letting it cure properly.

As for the sanding and buffing ... if its just dust of the "orange peel" your getting rid of, use 2000 grit paper. If its a run, use 1500 grit and then 2000 grit paper. Use a micro buffing compound to get the shine back. Switch buffing pads to a foam style and use a polishing glaze to finish it.

compound
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 8WWN4GGVbl

compound buffing pad
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... FT7GKCLQbl

glaze
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 49FHSF93bl

glaze pad
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 5TQLNGFTbl

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:47 am

Yeah painted in my garage, not too cold outside, but then again not that hot. So after the clear, wet sand it with 1500? Cause I watched this one video, before he sanded and buffed after the clear, it looked like shit, but after that it was one hell of a paint job. Thanks for the help Jason

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuJnjN7Q ... re=related

mjrpaine · Post by **mjrpaine** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 9:12 am

Oh boy ... ok ... after watching that ... lets start this over from the basics.

How exactly are you planning on doing this ? With a spray can like he did or will you use an air compressor and a spray gun ? If a spray gun, what kind. Is this the only project you will plan to do yourself, or do you plan on painting more things ? Are you going to use a real buffer or a cordless drill like he did? Knowing this will help and I can really get into more detail to suit the way your doing it.

If your going to do more, I reccommend getting a spray gun. You have (what looks to be a decent) tool supply chain in your area.

Princess Auto
6608 Dixie Road
Mississauga
ON, CA
L5T2Z9

It looks like and equivilant to what I have in my area called "Harbor Freight". They sell decent equiptment for the "do it yourselfer" at half way decent prices.

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:23 am

Haha nah I'm spray canning it, should be the only thing I'm spraying ever. I have a real buffer though

ThatKevin · Post by **ThatKevin** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:25 am

princess auto does have a lot of shit

did you say you were gonna do this today Johny?

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:51 pm

I actually did most of it yesterday, need to do another coat of color then clear it

mjrpaine · Post by **mjrpaine** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:35 pm

OH ...

if you started yesterday ... and didnt finish ... you need to scuff the paint and clean it so the next layer will stick to it.

But yeah after a few days for it to cure I would use 1500 grit paper only if you have runs in the clear coat.

If its just a little dust or nothing at all use 2000 grit paper. Then buff it with one pad, and glaze it with another.

Then wait a month before waxing it.

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:37 pm

Okay awesome, anything you recommend to buff and glaze with?

mjrpaine · Post by **mjrpaine** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:01 pm

I posted a couple links with them in it above along with the buffing pad and glazing pad.

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:28 pm

Gotcha, thanks for the help Jason

mjrpaine · Post by **mjrpaine** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:39 pm

No problem. Glad to help.

mjrpaine · Post by **mjrpaine** » Tue May 01, 2012 8:58 pm

any pics yet ??

ThatKevin · Post by **ThatKevin** » Tue May 01, 2012 11:15 pm

mjrpaine wrote:any pics yet ??

he won't share..

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Wed May 02, 2012 12:16 am

hahaha, not yet, I repainted it again today cause the PEL didnt match to the color of my car. ended up buying a GM dark cherry metalic which is so much closer to the color and actually looks pearl where the other one didnt. I'll take a couple shots tomorrow

ThatKevin · Post by **ThatKevin** » Wed May 02, 2012 7:06 am

I thought you were getting an exact paint match from Napa?

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Wed May 02, 2012 11:22 am

ThatKevin wrote:I thought you were getting an exact paint match from Napa?

yeah decided not to, found one thats close to it

ThatKevin · Post by **ThatKevin** » Wed May 02, 2012 12:15 pm

will it be ready for thursday night?

Johny · Post by **Johny** » Wed May 02, 2012 12:20 pm

hopefully, sorta iffy on putting it on today cause its suppose to rain.. not sure if the clear is completly dry yet