Window weld?
Window weld?
I've heard instead of replacing the rear top hats you can put window weld in them? How does that work? i have them off and i cant seem to find a good place to really put the window weld into.
I wouldn't put the window weld (or silicone) into used tophats, unless you know for sure they are in good condition. 'Druther start out with new ones.
Folks here have complained about NEW top hats making noises, soon after installation !!
Meaning even new top hats, can use the Window Weld or silicone anyways, to help quiet them down.
- Nick
Folks here have complained about NEW top hats making noises, soon after installation !!
Meaning even new top hats, can use the Window Weld or silicone anyways, to help quiet them down. - Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
Don't fill the entire cavity, just the area under the lip on the top and bottom. But as NickKo said, get some new ones before you do this.
2003 SXT
2005 SRT-4
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pocket ace
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I recently did this mod and I must say It makes a world of difference.
My rear top hats rattled and banged something fierce the wife hated being in the car.
I got my hands on a spare set so I could do them and let them dry up good, proper black automotive window urethane takes two- three days to really dry up.
First off if you don't have top hats sitting in yur hands your gonna have to take em outta yur whip. Remember this is a two day waiting period for drying so a extra set to do is recommended so you can just swap em
Disassemble the strut coil unit, set the strut and spring spring seats aside, and check out the tophat.
If you look you will see that there are 3 sorta pins that hold the top of the tophat to the bottom of the tophat. They are fixed onto I believe the lower portion. The best way to fill the top hat that I found was to grind these pins flat, and pry the two halves apart. This reveals the rubber puck inside and the cavity surrounding it.
I will state as well, you will want something along the lines of 3 clamps or vise grips for each tophat to be clamped together while they dry.
Ok, so one you have it split open and you have the rubber puck in the open bust out the window weld. Take some kinda cleaner and clean the inside of the pocket as best you can before filling everywhere .
Once clean, fill that thing up, take the top plate and push it back on top of the bottom plate where it was once installed ( make sure the puck is in there )
With all the window weld in there it will be squishing the weld out, as well it will be hard to push them flat tight again, this is where the 3 clamps or vise grips come in , use them to clamp around the two halves and squish it back together as one unit. If you did it right the pins you ground off earlier should push back into the holes they were in.
Let it dry for 48 hours at least and then put em back together as they were.
Also make sure when cleaning the window weld off that squishes out that none blocks the strut bolt hole. Keep that clear and where the bolt will rest should also be nice and cler as well.
Hope this helps.
My rear top hats rattled and banged something fierce the wife hated being in the car.
I got my hands on a spare set so I could do them and let them dry up good, proper black automotive window urethane takes two- three days to really dry up.
First off if you don't have top hats sitting in yur hands your gonna have to take em outta yur whip. Remember this is a two day waiting period for drying so a extra set to do is recommended so you can just swap em
Disassemble the strut coil unit, set the strut and spring spring seats aside, and check out the tophat.
If you look you will see that there are 3 sorta pins that hold the top of the tophat to the bottom of the tophat. They are fixed onto I believe the lower portion. The best way to fill the top hat that I found was to grind these pins flat, and pry the two halves apart. This reveals the rubber puck inside and the cavity surrounding it.
I will state as well, you will want something along the lines of 3 clamps or vise grips for each tophat to be clamped together while they dry.
Ok, so one you have it split open and you have the rubber puck in the open bust out the window weld. Take some kinda cleaner and clean the inside of the pocket as best you can before filling everywhere .
Once clean, fill that thing up, take the top plate and push it back on top of the bottom plate where it was once installed ( make sure the puck is in there )
With all the window weld in there it will be squishing the weld out, as well it will be hard to push them flat tight again, this is where the 3 clamps or vise grips come in , use them to clamp around the two halves and squish it back together as one unit. If you did it right the pins you ground off earlier should push back into the holes they were in.
Let it dry for 48 hours at least and then put em back together as they were.
Also make sure when cleaning the window weld off that squishes out that none blocks the strut bolt hole. Keep that clear and where the bolt will rest should also be nice and cler as well.
Hope this helps.
