Engine died at highway speed, wont start again

pocket ace · Post by **pocket ace** » Sat May 26, 2012 2:51 pm

Ok, 5-6 mins driving pulled onto highway and accelerated to 120ish Kms , as switched from 4 to 5 gear the tach jumped back and forth a few times and car lost power. It died about five seconds later and wouldn't start again

So far I have.

Changed coil with two other coils
Changed crank sensor
Changed cam sensor
Added some new grounds
Checked for continuity in the lines for crank and cam sensors. Both have good circuits. Checked grounds for cam gonna check crank next
Took crank pulley and belts off and pulled timing covers and matched the marks up timing is still dead on. Pulled valve cover and checked that the cam hadn't broken ( seen it happen so figured I'd check ) perfect function there all rollers goin up and down
I have 12 volt upon initial key switch at the coil

I did throw a intermittent crank or cam sensor code
Along with 8 others that I know , I don't think there causing the car not to start.

I feel like this has happened to some other members here before and I'm hoping someone can chime in on what a final resolution was.

As well if anyone here has tips on how to check through this to find the gremlin I'd be really grateful.

Bill

03wingswestR/T · Post by **03wingswestR/T** » Sat May 26, 2012 3:19 pm

Timing belt? Pcm? I had a pcm die on me and i changed a lot of sensors and parts only to find out the pcm took a poop...

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat May 26, 2012 3:36 pm

Change your ASD relay? Getting spark and fuel?

pocket ace · Post by **pocket ace** » Sat May 26, 2012 3:47 pm

Changed all relays back and forth

Grabbed more at scrap yard as well and played the back and forth game not helping and checked with horn each one they good

Timing belt is solid. It was done about 20 k ago, I have a open cover and belt is still on . Cam gear goes around and around. I checked timing tabs on cam gear and on crank gear at bottom and everything lines up dead on so I know timing is good and it didn't skip.

pocket ace · Post by **pocket ace** » Sat May 26, 2012 4:07 pm

Also don't know how to confirm if the computer has gone for shit, I have no spark but voltage at the coil plug is 12 volts when switched and then goes 12 plus when cranking

The fuel pump is energizing and it fills the rail, I press the valve release on the end of the rail and get a spray after each time I switch and try to start

ok so tried again and I'm getting a little spark, very weak , and in 5 seconds of cranking I only got one spark from cylinder 1 and 2 haven't done 3 and 4 yet

NGCnoproblem · Post by **NGCnoproblem** » Sat May 26, 2012 4:40 pm

Did you check the power and grounds the pcm uses for your sensors. The pcm should send a 5 volt reference to your sensors. do you have a oscillascope? (I think that's how its spelt) you could make sure each sensor is sending a signal too. I'm kind of a new at diagnosing but hope this helps and or makes sense

pocket · Post by **pocket** » Sat May 26, 2012 5:38 pm

this happen to me in my old 1gn highline all the same as you ace and it ended up being my computer. i had to go get it reflashed. btw ace you have some really bad luck man first the 2.4 now the r/t engine hope it makes it to cnn if your going

pocket ace · Post by **pocket ace** » Sat May 26, 2012 11:35 pm

I am also thinking maybe the computer is messed, dunno, ive gone through almost everything I can think of in there and can't find the answer. I'm gonna try a computer from my brothers car tomoro and atleast cross that option off the list.

It will be at CNN man, I'll push it the whole way if I have to, but it's gonna be there,

And yeah, if I didn't have bad luck I'd honestly have none at all man, it's been a tough road on this car, but I love my car and I'll fix it!

pocket ace · Post by **pocket ace** » Sun May 27, 2012 2:22 pm

Okso further bits to add.

I've done what I can checking voltages. I have 12 volt at center of the coil plug, the blue tan side ( for driver number 2 is giving me a ground when cranking, but the grey black wire for driver number 1 is not grounding out. I considered a break in the line so I splice a temp line from the plug harness to the coil plug and still no change.

This would make me considered messed computer or so I thought. My brother came over and I pulled his comp and plugged it in to mine and same thi, no start.

I'm lost guys, I've checked the coil plugs and I get voltage at all of em when cranking. I've got fuel pumpin solid , pulled fuel line off the rail and fed a canister and cranked and filled it Half full in 3 seconds so I know fuel pump is good.

The main problem here is the no ground happening for the coil pack. Anyone have any ideas why I wouldn't get a signal to one side?

NGCnoproblem · Post by **NGCnoproblem** » Sun May 27, 2012 2:31 pm

Shouldnt it be grounded at the pcm?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Sun May 27, 2012 2:41 pm

ok...
Is the red light flashing in the dash?
If yes, solve that first....
If no,
With the key on, pull the cam sesnor plug and reconnect it, did the injectors fire and ASD relay kick?
If no, check for 8 volts at the cam sensor plug. The cam and crank sensor run on an 8 volt voltage, the cam sensor is for the injectors while the crank is for ignition.Is the ASD relay getting power? The ASD relay switches based on pcm input. Get a multimeter on the ASD power wire at the pcm and have someone switch the key off and then on again, did the multimeter register voltage?
Let us know what happens...

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Mon May 28, 2012 10:39 pm

Sorry to hear about the bad luck! saw your post on neoncanada saying its was the timing belt that had slipped.

pocket ace · Post by **pocket ace** » Thu May 31, 2012 11:00 pm

Yep I got bad luck. So when I checked the timing the first time, I can only assume that by luck the cam gear was just holding against the end of the cam by bolt pressure, and without undoing everything to take the cam gear off I wouldn't be able to see that the pin on the end of the cam had sheared. After confirming that the timing was off and that I had indeed smacked valves, I went to the local yard and pulled a head, and spent the weekend redoing my motor. End of day Monday I fired him up again - woot woot!

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, at minimum I now know every inch of my wiring harness, I've upgraded all my grounds in the process, and I ended up with a really good used head.

dvon17 · Post by **dvon17** » Thu May 31, 2012 11:43 pm

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:11 am

congrats on a "quick fix" and not getting discouraged by the work

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:21 am

I can only assume that by luck the cam gear was just holding against the end of the cam by bolt pressure,

In reality, that is all that keeps it from slipping. The dowel is only there to locate it. It will not hold the torque of turning the cam, as you could tell. Your cam bolt prolly wasn't tightened properly, or over tightened, and the bolt stretched. 85 ft lbs, no more no less...