odd noise/feel

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:31 pm

OK, so mine does have the clear tubing, for some reason I recall it being black. Never took a close enough pic to see the printing tho. (Wasn't on the agenda at that time)

That is my rerouteitthefuckoutoftheIMsoIdon'thavetodickwithiteverydamntime mod.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 9:51 pm

huh. idk. all i know is

when i got my car it had 37 k on it 2 years ago. since then it is now going for 67k.
when i got the car it was in a wreck but air bags didnt deploy. carfax.
then i feel asleep goin about 10 mph and rear ended a chevy impala.
then i was giong about 80 or 90 mph and a dumb ass in a ford achalanche came over on me and ended up fucking up my fender and bumper.
befor the ford achalanche thing my car was making a odd clunk noise along with a slight jerk when i would let off the gas and then gas it. and also made a slight noise when turning.
i have 0 gauge power wire for my stereo.
i have a new starter plus a red top optimum battery.
i JUST GOT A NEW TOP MOTOR MOUNT STRUT from az.
engine runs great along with trany. umm.
i try messing with teh cable.
i have a broken oem key. i took the chip out of it and put it in a new recut key. but i sometimes have to try it once or twice for it to stay on.
ummm i had to rock my car back and forth to start it . then it got worse. i have to park goind down a hill. now sometimes i wont even get anything after rocking the car. i was facing down a hill one night and i had to rock it back and forth and then neutral then park. and nothing at alll. i came out the next morning and started right up. today same thing but after a minute it started right up. i dont understand.

like i said i got a brand new motor mount tonight. so ima try and put it in tomorow befor work. i got in at 12

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 10:44 pm

also, since im going to replace one mm. should i just replace all of them. all 4 from az is 200 + dollars. from ebay i can get all 4 shipped for 150.

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Sun Aug 05, 2012 12:07 am

I would do at least both torque struts (passenger side top, and bottom "motor mounts"). The engine and tranny mounts are a bit more involved. Read the Haynes manual on replacing the engine torque struts. There's a length specification for when to tighten up the top engine torque strut (engine mount).

You may also possibly need a park/neutral safety switch.

Do the mounts and fix the "sparks" in the clear insulator on your starter wire. Sparks are bad....mmmkay. Then worry about the park/neutral safety switch. I seem to remember being able to simply run a jumper wire across the unplugged switch to get around it....this is old school, before OBD II. I'll have to check the FSM again to be sure this is possible.

Edit: I can't find it anywhere....must be called something else.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:12 am

How would I go about fixing the sparking in the insulator?

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:17 am

The most expensive (but maybe the easiest) would be to get a new wiring harness from mopar.

The other option would be to repair the existing harness. Now, don't quote me, and don't regard the following as gospel (please double check with someone who is more electrically inclined....sorry, no recommendations):

The basics would be to cut out the bad section of wire, and solder in a new, replacement section of the same wire gauge as what you cut out. Seal it up with some sort of insulator, possibly reuse the one that is there and some silicone or something (maybe there is something specific for electrical applications). This is assuming that what is under the clear insulator is the fusible link....which may be contrary to what others have stated previously.

If it was mine, I would probably cut the insulator off to see what is under there and go from there (because of my question as to whether or not the fusible link is under the clear insulator)....this would obviously render the insulator useless and I would have to get a new one, or something comparable, to replace it.

Probably should disconnect and isolate the battery negative terminal before to attempt any of this.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:56 am

If it is arcing at the fusible link, the battery will eventually go dead. The lights, etc would be flashing brighter/dimmer constantly in a random pattern. Once the gap between the wires has burned apart far enough, there will be no more current charging the battery/running electrical needs.

The fusible link has nothing to do with the starter circuit. It's failure will eventually lead to a no start condition tho. (Dead battery)

You can just remove it, but if the wire to the alternator/alternator shorts, you may have a burn't out shell for a car.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:13 am

...how much would a wiring harness be?

And idk...burnt out shell of a car??? That doesnt sound to good.

So if I cut off the clear piece ill have to replace just the vlear piece.

If I take out the wire I have to replace the wire with the same. And for the fuse. Where would I find one of those??? Im cinfussed guys.

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:20 pm

occasional demons wrote:....snip....The fusible link has nothing to do with the starter circuit. It's failure will eventually lead to a no start condition tho. (Dead battery)....snip....

Isn't the battery positive wire connected to the charging/hot wire coming from the alternator at the starter's red terminal block?

If so, then the battery gets it's charge from the alternator through the starter harness via the black wire from the alternator, then back to the positive terminal via the red wire? If this is the case, then I understand what you said when you mentioned the fusible link has nothing to do with the starter circuit.

thisdieingdream1: I would find a replacement insulator BEFORE cutting into the clear thing and making it useless....should have mentioned that earlier. No idea on the price. Please post what you get quoted. Thanks.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 1:01 pm

It appears chrysler only sells the alternator feed wire with the engine harness assy.

You would need to go to a parts store, and have them match the fusible link size for you. Or tell them it is for an 8 gauge alternator wire.

Then you will need an eyelet crimped/soldered on to the link.

Then solder the link to your existing 8 gauge wire with sealing shrink tube.

The parts store should have everything you need. If not, I have seen the sealing shrink tube at Home Depot.

FWIW:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-links.html

Engine harness '01/'02
ECB 4794412AE $844.00
ECH 4794372AE (R/T) $N/A

'04
ECB 4795020AB $227.00
ECH 4795043AB $240.00 4795043AC $425.00

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 1:20 pm

Thanks for the link and info.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:38 pm

my87csx481 wrote:Thanks for the link and info.

x 2

Thanks again, Bill !!

- Nick

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 8:22 am

Oh boy. Alright guys thanks much. Ill let you all know.

But im leaning more towatds not touching it haha

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:36 am

She also said that.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:48 pm

Haha

I putthat mount on today. Starts up now with less vibration ...much less

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:35 pm

Did you try a junkyard for the harness? I'm wondering if they'll even sell you one.

Like one of my former supervisors used to say: Just pick up your skirt and do it.

You don't have any friends/family/friends of friends that are comfortable with a soldering iron? It's not that hard. If you do decide to attempt it yourself, practice on some pieces of scrap wire of the same gauge.

I'm sure NAPA or some place should be able to get you a section of flame retardant "clear" insulator. Maybe even McMaster or some place like that. Grainger. Or maybe and electronics supply house. Allied electronics. Digi-key. There's a place near me, Levine Auto Parts. I bet they might be able to come up with something but, I think they're only local to CT. Try to find an auto parts wholesaler that sells over a retail counter as well.

Congrats on the mount....now do the lower one.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:56 pm

Idk, for the harness I may be okay. I replaced the topotor mount sturt today. Wow...what a diffrence. I have noticeable gain in power and handling. The old mount was indeed shot. I bet if I relace the lower stut mount ill be able to chirp my tires once again.

But to the main topic. the new key I got {not a OEM key} seems to work perfect almost. I got the chip in the key juuust right. Thank god. So it starys pretty easily now. I tested the car out going up a slight incline. Nothing major or even noticable really. But the car started no problem. But then again its been starying somewhat okay for the last two or thrre days now. But like I said with the mounts. What a diffrence. So hopefully the mount was the issue. Ill let you all know in the next few days if I have any more troubles. I am deff going to replace that lower strut mount though.

Has any one bought those strut mount inserts off MP? How are they? I may buy them.

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:15 am

If you don't replace the lower engine torque strut (lower mount), you risk causing the upper one to fail prematurely....in case you needed some more motivation to do the job.

The prothane inserts will not fit aftermarket engine torque struts. They only fit mopar ones. I have the race ones. Made a big difference for me. Mine is a manual though. I can almost sorta' launch the car now. The compromise is more engine vibration feel and noise in the passenger cabin.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:07 am

Wait, what do you mean they wont fit aftermarket mounts? I got OEM mounts???? I did notice the rubber in the mounts were diffrent. The one I have now all four rubber things are pressed against the bolt mount. The one befor it only the frount rubber and the two side ones were pressed to the bolt thing...

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:37 am

OEM style? Or Mopar?

The Prothane inserts only fit inside Mopar brand torque struts. The shape of the insert was molded from the shape of the rubber inside a mopar part.

If you purchased anything else, the inserts will not fit....unless they are shaped exactly the same.

If you still have your old one, take a look and compare the shape of the rubber to the new one.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:59 am

Its diffrent ill take pics

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:16 pm

If they're different, the prothane inserts will not fit. They are designed to occupy the air gap spaces in the rubber.

No need to take pics....unless you really want to.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:17 pm

Awww nvm. Bs... =/ I take it with the mopar ones. The front and back rubber tips are not melted to the metal bolt piece. Only the top and bottom rubber tipss are.

The old mount that I just took off only the top and bottom rubber tips were melted on the metal bolt piece.

Anyways. Ill have to save to mopar mounts.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:33 pm

Sad face. Mount seems to have helped. But, parking up hill is still an issue.

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:21 am

You only replaced one of the torque struts....right? There is another torque strut, and an engine mount and a transaxle mount. I would at least do the other torque strut AFTER you figure out your no start on a hill.

There was an earlier post about a fluid filled mount. I don't have any experience with that but, maybe if it failed, there would be evidence of it leaking/leaked out.

You said you were in an accident. How bad was the front of the car smushed? Insurance should have paid for these things to get fixed if they are a result of the accident....and you have collision....assuming you were the one at fault.

I would look for obvious (and not so obvious) damage caused by the accident. Cut/smushed wires.

How do you get the thing started on a hill? Trying to push the car while in park, so the engine rocks back and forth while you're trying to fire the starter? Have you checked that connection to the starter, and the red wire itself, coming from the battery? Battery terminals are clean?

I don't know.....just rambling in a groggy, no coffee yet daze.

Just for the hell of it, have you checked for codes? Does your check engine bulb even light up when you first turn the key, on the click just before you start cranking?

Edit: How soon after the accident did your intermittent no-start condition begin?

Also, check your email that you have listed here.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 10:49 am

My email? I did and I have nothing in there...

Try resending or send to this email thisdieingdream1@gmail.com

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:13 pm

I just got back. The emails failed. I'll send you a PM shortly.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 3:28 pm

damn guys, i replaced that top strut mount and it was going good for a few days. minor problems. but today. omg 3 times in a row back to back ive had to rock the car back and forth. 2 of those times when i frist turn the key to start i got nothing at all. nothing till i rocked the car foward then the starter kicked in but not long enough to start the engine.

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 10:37 pm

Does it click at all when it does this?

Like, do you hear the solenoid clicking, or is it completely dead/nothing at all?

Have you checked the battery terminals to see if they're corroded?

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Tue Aug 14, 2012 11:04 pm

yes it does.

I found my problem. The lower strut mm one of the rubbers is snapped in half. Bought and anchor mount today putting it on on the 16th