dont bite my head off

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:21 pm


Just a few repeative questions

Ill prolly be replacing my motor mounts. So what would be the pros anf cons of OEM replacement mounts compaired to mounts with no rubber?

Also. Why is the r/t and the sxt diffrent in HP? I take it that the only reason is compression ratios are 9/8 to 9/3. 
question is, what makes such a difference in the ratio? The air intake manifold???

D-Railed_Neon · Post by **D-Railed_Neon** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 1:48 pm

1) Solid mounts will alleviate all movement of the engine in the bay. The pro of this is less wheel hop and more power getting to the wheels than being absorbed in vibration form by the oem rubber.

2) The R/t and ACR get their extra 18hp from an assortment of things. -first the head is designed differently than ours. Larger ports and redesigned intake chamber equals overall better flow. Secondly, the Intake manifold. With two runners that only open at a needed engine velocity, the cars have essentially "tuned" intake charge systems.....sorta. Thirdly the magnums have larger exhaust ports so they had to have a different exhaust manifold to go with em. Larger ports to larger pipes. The last piece of the puzzle comes from the r/t and ACR PCMs they had a much different fuel map with the ability to add or pull more timing than the normal 2.0

There are some other things here and there but, I think that covers the majority of it. A more senior member can verify or dispute that for ya. Either way I hope that helps

P.S. if you do solid Motor Mounts, that vibration from the engine has to go somewhere so expect to "Feel the car" a lot more. Will probably have a slight shake inside the car in tune with the engine.

stdlystdmufn · Post by **stdlystdmufn** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 2:11 pm

pretty close, the intake side of the head is the same as a non-mag. all the benifits come from the exhaust side of the head, advanced timing from the PCM, and the intake manifold. there is some talk about the pistons being coated, but having torn down two ngc non mag engines i can say that the non-mags are coated too. but the rods are made of a stouter material so they can handle some more abuse.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 2:41 pm

Also, that 18 crank hp is enhanced by a little more gear reduction in the transaxle's final drive ratio.

With the standard 3.55 MTX, the power doesn't really come on until 80 mph plus in 5th gear. '03 up MTX's would be even more disadvantaged due to the taller overdrive.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Fri Jul 06, 2012 2:43 pm

alright, i was just wondering. Im getting bored and since my mounts could be replaced i figured to do some mods.

i was wondering about the rt to see if there was anythign i could do to my sxt that would give me a little more power at the wheel. i read somewhere that i only get 105 horses...Bikes get more than that. =(

stdlystdmufn · Post by **stdlystdmufn** » Fri Jul 06, 2012 5:41 pm

thisdieingdream1 wrote:Bikes get more than that. =(

yea but think what your car would get if it was 10.5:1 compression and could rev to 16,500 rpm like my old GSXR! to be honest look at buying an r/t manifold and wire it to work like the real one. that will make it more fun to drive.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 9:28 am

How do you wire it to work right?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 9:40 am

Look in the Engine How to section

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:18 am

Okay.

So I can just slap on my sxt an r/t intake manifold and it will fit? All I have to do is wire it?

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:44 am

stdlystdmufn · Post by **stdlystdmufn** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:00 pm

you need different IM to head bolts but you can get them from autozone.

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 5:43 pm

The one thread said about the I'm having to have an actuator. Where could I even find a I'm. And what's the actuator look like?

stdlystdmufn · Post by **stdlystdmufn** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:00 pm

no if you buy an IM with the actuator in it then you'll be fine. these will be advertised as "fully functioning". and you don't wanna know how much one would cost from the dealer.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:05 pm

the actuator is in the mag intake manifold, you need a window switch to activate it

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 7:10 pm

Oh, well does anyone have one to sell?

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:18 am

thisdieingdream1 wrote:Oh, well does anyone have one to sell?

Hope I dont piss her off, but i THINK Stephanie (Heybaker) Will be parting out her r/t some time in the future. Maybe you could PM her and get first dibs on it

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:50 am

Na, she is putting the engine in the rear, for a dual Magnum powered neon.

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:52 am

hmm...in the rear you say....interesting.... lol

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:10 am

I was only kidding, but then once the power of suggestion does it's evil work....

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 9:44 am

Okay thanks

thisdieingdream1 · Post by **thisdieingdream1** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:15 am

Hey! What else should I get from her??? My door panels bad. My window switch trims broke a little and my door panel handle inside is lose a little. Ummm. What about engine wise? What all should I grab? If she's willing?