Jegs rpm switch help

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 1:46 pm

Trying to hook up the secondaries on my mag im... I kno theres a bunch of how to s but they r for the harlan and msd. I tried switching stuff around to get out to work but failed. Someone help me out and explain which wires go where our draw up a diagram pls!

This is the one I have and a relay

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+ ... 2/10002/-1

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:47 pm

You have no instruction sheet for it? I see nothing with a quick search.

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:06 pm

No it does.. I guess im just asking how I tie the relay into the mix

Does the mtv actuator draw more than 3 amps??

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 11:24 pm

If you can scan and post a copy of the instructions/wiring diagram it might be helpful.

Unless someone who has actually wired one speaks up, the color of the wires means nothing to the rest of us.

You definitely want a relay to switch the MTV motor. The factory used one, so should you. The RPM switch cannot handle the current.

Never mind, found them.
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstruc ... -40822.pdf

• Red wire attaches to a switched +12 Volt supply source.
• Black wire attaches to chassis ground.
• Grey wire is input for the Tachometer signal. This wire will hook up to the negative side of your ignition coil, or if you
are using a high energy CD ignition, connect to the TACH output of your ignition system to the Grey wire of the
RPM switch and NOT the coil.
• Blue wire connects to the negative/ground side of the device that you want to activate at the desired RPM. This
connection is either Normally Open (Blue wire provides ground AFTER the switch reaches desired RPM) or
Normally Closed (Blue wire is grounded UNTIL switch reaches desired RPM) according to the setting in program
mode (OFF means Normally Open and will supply ground when the selected RPM is reached, ON means Normally
Closed and the switch will open when the selected RPM is reached). Factory default is Normally Open.
NOTE: If the device to which the blue wire is attached to draws more than 3 amps, a relay must be used to
drive that device or damage will occur to the unit.

What I get from that, is you have to run an additional (fused) 12v (+) wire.

The blue wire will go to one side of your relay coil (85).

The additional 12v + wire will go 30 and 86. May need to make a jumper, or solder in a splice to go to both terminals.

If you are using a pre wired socket, just twist the two leads together with the feed wire pointing at them and solder, so it is in a straight line.

Use some liquid electrical tape, then slide the shrink tubing over it to give it a good seal.

87 will go to the MTV motor (+), then run a ground wire to the MTV (-).

The tach signal, you will need to check the other how to's or hope someone speaks up.

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 11:45 pm

Awesome thank u. That confirmed my new diagram I made up after reading up more online about relays. Ill have to try it this wkend°c work is crazy busy and have no time to do it

2005.Neon.SXT · Post by **2005.Neon.SXT** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:58 am

There ya go. I looked online regarding relays too when I did my R/T manifold install. Helped a lot to know what pins on the relay did what (I even took the cover off and played with the pieces to know what it was doing... helped me to understand what the relay was really doing).

Let me know how it goes when you do the install. There is one issue I've had with mine where when it engages, I can hear it engage-disengage-engage-disengage... like the MTV motor is flipping on and off... so I don't get that consistent "womp" when you hear the motor open... and stay open...

*shrugs* I don't know what to think of it. Just figured that since I'm using a window switch that it's just the way it's going to be.

Anyway, maybe someone can chime in on that =)

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:13 pm

Doesn't the relay have to be grounded??

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:53 am

85 - to ground. In the pic above.

Edit: Some relays have an 87A.

87A will turn off what ever is connected to it when the relay is activated. (NC)

87 turns it on when the relay is activated. (NO)

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:40 am

Just confused bc if blue wire from switch goes to 85, the other side has to b grounded, but in ur text it says power to 86 and 30. Maybe in just not understanding, but I think I have it figured out. Haven't had time to work on it yet bc of crazy work hours

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 9:46 am

The blue wire is the ground for the relay. The rpm switch controls the ground to the relay, so the relay can switch the MTV on and off.

Sorry it was late, I should have clarified that.

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:15 pm

Ohh ok. Got it. Thanks for the help. sorry I'm not good with the electrical stuff haha

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 1:31 pm

Ok so... I hooked it all up. Everything worked, I set the rpm window low enough so I could here the butterflies open and close and they work! But my problem now is that the switch is reading the rpms crazy, at idle it will go from 8000 to 3000, them end up staying a around 3000-3500. Y would it be doing this? I checked my connections and they seemed good. It reads the rpms right when I press the gas though, then goes back up to the 3000s when back at idle. Ohh and now my check engine light is on, haven't gotten it scanned yet to see what code it is. Any ideas

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 2:12 pm

NyNeon0813 wrote:Ok so... I hooked it all up. Everything worked, I set the rpm window low enough so I could here the butterflies open and close and they work! But my problem now is that the switch is reading the rpms crazy, at idle it will go from 8000 to 3000, them end up staying a around 3000-3500. Y would it be doing this? I checked my connections and they seemed good. It reads the rpms right when I press the gas though, then goes back up to the 3000s when back at idle. Ohh and now my check engine light is on, haven't gotten it scanned yet to see what code it is. Any ideas

No ideas....Since I haven't done this mod... Yet.
But let us know what the code is.
I bet it's related.

- Nick

chris1211 · Post by **chris1211** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 2:23 pm

Turn the key to on position then off three times the code will appear on your odemoter

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 8:15 pm

Went to advanced auto had it scanned only code that came up was p0171 bank 1 running lean. Not sure as to how this is connected with the secondaries but check engine light want on before I wired the rpm switch. And my ac isn't blowing cold now either wtf!

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 12:47 am

chris1211 wrote:Turn the key to on position three times the code will appear on your odemoter

Fixed.

Not sure why the A/C or lean condition would be related to the IM install. Did you possibly disconnect the wire to the A/C compressor clutch? It would be near the MTV end of the IM. Also the A/C lines from the compressor are close to the Mag IM. Possibly it rubbed a hole in the line?

I know when I was test fitting mine, the line was hitting the IM. I had to bend it to clear.

I would check the IM gasket to be sure it is not sucking air, and any other vacuum leak points that may cause it to run lean, Should just idle high tho.

Did the IM come with the fuel rail/injectors? Or did you re use yours? (Possible clogged injector(s). )

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 5:18 am

I used mine from the old one. But I've had the mag im installed for months now, since I did my head swap. So I must have disconnected something. How can I find out if a relay is bad?

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 11:35 am

And I wired the switch (12v supply) to the blue/white wire from the fuel pump relay, which I saw on another persons thread. I think that may be the reason I'm running lean. So I'm going to switch that to a diff 12v source and see what happens. Still dont kno y the switch isn't reading the rpms right though

Again of anyone has any kind of ideas let me kno pls

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 2:55 pm

Problems solved..

Wired the switch/fuel pump, relay connection better, check engine light hasn't come back on so far, crossing my fingers.

And the rpm thing, I noticed that the coil pack electrical harness wires went, starting closest wire to the front of the car, blue/pink, green/orange, black. From what I've read, the black wire is ground and should b the middle wire, but it was on the end connector. So I cut the 2 wires, black and green/orange and connected the wires so that the ground would be the middle wire... And it worked! Now I'm getting a steady accurate rpm reading.. Dont kno of its supposed to be like that or what but its working so it works for me

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 3:58 pm

With the mag intake, it should be a solid crossover sound, and not fluctuate.

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:42 pm

It is u can clearly hear the butterflies opening and closing. glad I finally took the time to get it wired up

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 8:24 pm

Now got code p0352. and driving with the wires switched, the car would buck between 2 and 3k. So switched wires back. And have the switch reading the rpms soul messed up again.dont kno what the prob is. Going to try to run a dif ground wire to the coil and see if that helps

Help me!!

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:16 am

The center wire should be 12 volts. The two outer wires are grounded alternately by the PCM.

When the PCM breaks the ground for each coil, that is what makes the coil fire. The breaking of the current to the coil collapses the magnetic field in the primary windings, causing the secondary windings to discharge the high voltage.

So in summary, there is not a ground wire, there are two. The tach signal should connect to one of the outer wires, as the center will be a constant 12v (+) (As long as the ASD relay is on)

If it has a two cylinder option, you may need to select that. It doesn't matter which outer wire you use, they both turn on/off. There are two coils in one pack, thus two ground wires, one feed. So each coil is only firing two cylinders.

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:44 am

Yea this switch only has 4,6,8 cyl options. Going to talk to electrician/mechanic at my job and see if he can come up with a answer. If not I will take it to the audio place that said he would put it in for me

The relay 86 and 30 should b powered from the battery correct? And I dont have a fuse wired in, would that change anything?

stdlystdmufn · Post by **stdlystdmufn** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:50 am

When I wired my safc2 in I just used the msd tach adapterthat would work here too. Basically it just converts the 2 cyl signl into a 4cyl signal your device can read.

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 12:16 pm

Huh maybe that is all it needs.. Will look into it thanks

One like this?

http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/8910/10002/-1

If not, what one did u use?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 1:19 pm

NyNeon0813 wrote:
The relay 86 and 30 should b powered from the battery correct?

Yes

NyNeon0813 wrote: And I dont have a fuse wired in, would that change anything?

No, it wouldn't make a difference, until something shorted out.

I would fuse it to be safe. While the relay coil would just burn it's self up, the MTV motor may melt some wires if it shorted.

If you are using a relay foot print like pictured above, you could install it in one of the spare sockets by the fan relay in the PDC. You would need to remove the PDC tho, and take the bottom half off.

Pre wired slide terminals (bare terminals) will slide into the bottom, and lock into place. It will make your install a little cleaner, and you could tap into one of the fused circuits in the PDC.

Getting a terminal to add a fuse/smaller relay in there requires finding another PDC, and removing them from it. As of yet, I haven't found another source for those terminals. For my needs, I just got lucky and found a hacked off PDC on ebay.

One of the "Not Used" by the fan relay could splice into the hot side of position 16, since there will not be a terminal in the other half, unless of course it is an R/T or an ACR PDC.
Fuse rating below...

What you will be looking at: (ignore the arrow)

And yes, the tach adapter should work. Since you really can't return the one you have, since it is used/open, may as well get the tach adapter. IIRC there are other makes for $80 that have everything in one unit. :/

NyNeon0813 · Post by **NyNeon0813** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 2:58 pm

I didn't kno that about tapping into the fused circuit. Will have to do that. Already have the relay in place in the pdc.

Have to get the tach adapter and see if that fixes things

2005.Neon.SXT · Post by **2005.Neon.SXT** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 2:22 pm

I was reading this and saw you had the inconsistent RPM readings... then you fixed it, and I guess it started causing issues. Mine doesn't read consistently either, and I can hear the secondaries open/close back and forth from 4100-redline... it's kinda annoying, and I haven't gotten around to fixing it. I know you're supposed to hear it open once... until you drop below the set-RPM.. but ya, just haven't gotten around to actually fixing it... Let me know what you find out!

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 2:26 pm

2005.Neon.SXT, are you using the same switch?

I wonder if it isn't pulse width modulating for a "softer" on/off mode. Except it isn't making the MTV happy.