what did i break now? *vibration*

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NEON PARABOLA
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what did i break now? *vibration*

Post by NEON PARABOLA » Tue Aug 21, 2012 12:57 pm

vibrates in drive or reverse in the morning when its stone cold. noticeable when accelerating. puting it in neutral or park at stop lights makes it go away. Goes away when engine gets hot. NOT the usual rough idle everyone bitches about, this is ontop of that. This happened after replacing my LCA's. Only things I can think of are:
A: lower torque strut is out of alignment (but why would it stop in neutral?)
B: when installing the drivers side LCA, I did bow out the strut while installing the ball joint into the knuckle. maybe I pulled something loose on the axle or in the transmission?

the vibration feels like something is seriously bent

2003 sxt - atx
solid motor mounts
new lower control arms
new struts
shifts smooth
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-Sean
Official "I'm driving my neon till' it dies #28

BLK 03' NEON SXT 150,000 MILES

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NEON PARABOLA
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Post by NEON PARABOLA » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:52 am

anything?
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freelancer1988
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Post by freelancer1988 » Wed Aug 22, 2012 5:21 pm

maybe the trans mount is wearing out? I am unsure really, but figured I would give some idea. I just replaced my motor mount, torque mounts, and trans mount this weekend. (then driver cv exploded :roll: ) I had a similar problem, but I didn't have the solid mounts. That fixed my issue. I am assuming you are talking about the torque mounts being solid? Sorry for the newbness. Maybe something is loose. Check all bolts and nuts where you did the lca's and measure the torque mounts to make sure they are aligned... if solid need to be aligned of course. Idunno

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:19 pm

You would have had to really pull the knuckle out to damage the CV joint. Just enough to slide the BJ stud into the knuckle shouldn't hurt. But more than that could, if you really yanked on it. Even then, IDK...


You may have to put it in the air, and put it in drive, and look to see if anything is obvious. Just keep clear of moving parts. :D
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Donkeypuncher
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Wed Aug 22, 2012 11:55 pm

How about the center motor mount? That causes all kinds of crazy vibrations.

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Post by jrumann59 » Thu Aug 23, 2012 1:40 am

if something was bent it would be there during movement only but wouldn't matter the temp of the motor. I would check to make sure nothing is rubbing along the drive line. Does it make this noise at idle?
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NewarkVw
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Post by NewarkVw » Sun Aug 26, 2012 4:03 am

What did it end up being? Im having similar issues.

Donkeypuncher
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Sun Aug 26, 2012 8:57 am

I'd put my money on the motor mount. Automatics put a constant load on the engine when in gear, which would explain why it smooths out in neutral.

Problem is you can't really see the mount to diagnose it. If the rubber is ripped you might be able to see fluid leaking down the inside of the frame rail, but you'd probably have to power brake it back and forth from D to R to squeeze the fluid out. You could try watching the bolt in the wheel well while power braking it to see if it has excessive movement. Aside from that, you'd have to pull it apart.

How many miles are on the car?

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NEON PARABOLA
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Post by NEON PARABOLA » Mon Aug 27, 2012 9:17 am

SORRY!


165,000 miles

I may have bowed the knuckle out by 3" but no more i wouldnt think. How easy is the center motor mount to replace?
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freelancer1988
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Post by freelancer1988 » Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:03 pm

NEON PARABOLA wrote:SORRY!


165,000 miles

I may have bowed the knuckle out by 3" but no more i wouldnt think. How easy is the center motor mount to replace?
Haha, not easy at all. Just did it the other day.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdFV7LgIPqA

The above video is for timing belt replacement, but it is the best instructions if you have not done it. Just don't remove your crank pulley... or timing stuff.

Remove accessory belt, your power steering pump, lower and upper torque mounts, but make sure your motor is properly supported beforehand. You will also want to remove the motor, upper torque plate.

Raise the motor with jack some to remove the t55 torx bolt in behind the passenger tire.... It is in the video. lol.

The middle mount is only shown some in the video, but it is the damn thing in the frame. It is held in with 4 bolts. I believe 15mm. Just make sure you mark where it was originally bolted. You want to get it as close to original location as you can.

Also, anything after 9:45 in the video is not needed.

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Donkeypuncher
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Mon Aug 27, 2012 2:37 pm

It's certainly not fun, but difficulty depends on your level of ability. I went through hell to diagnose the motor mount on mine, does any of this sound familiar-- viewtopic.php?t=60058&highlight=center+centre+mount
Last edited by Donkeypuncher on Tue Aug 28, 2012 1:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

freelancer1988
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Post by freelancer1988 » Mon Aug 27, 2012 7:58 pm

Donkeypuncher wrote:It's certainly not fun, but difficulty depends on you level of ability. I went through hell to diagnose the motor mount on mine, does any of this sound familiar-- viewtopic.php?t=60058&highlight=center+centre+mount
Very useful information. I wish I found that thread beforehand. lol. How is your mount holding up Donkeypuncher? Still good? I have the exact same mount as what you installed.

Donkeypuncher
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Tue Aug 28, 2012 1:03 am

Yup still holding up just fine, probably 12k miles on it since then. I forgot just how bad it was until I re-read that thread, what a pain.

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NEON PARABOLA
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Post by NEON PARABOLA » Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:49 am

update:
Torqued (87 ft lbs) the upper torque strut, and the forward bolt on the lower this AM, made a noticeable difference. Couldn't do the rear bolt on the lower, as I was late for work (Neon repairs in the morning ftw!)
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-Sean
Official "I'm driving my neon till' it dies #28

BLK 03' NEON SXT 150,000 MILES

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NEON PARABOLA
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Post by NEON PARABOLA » Fri Sep 14, 2012 11:06 am

update, still having the issue
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-Sean
Official "I'm driving my neon till' it dies #28

BLK 03' NEON SXT 150,000 MILES

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