what did i break now? *vibration*
- NEON PARABOLA
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what did i break now? *vibration*
vibrates in drive or reverse in the morning when its stone cold. noticeable when accelerating. puting it in neutral or park at stop lights makes it go away. Goes away when engine gets hot. NOT the usual rough idle everyone bitches about, this is ontop of that. This happened after replacing my LCA's. Only things I can think of are:
A: lower torque strut is out of alignment (but why would it stop in neutral?)
B: when installing the drivers side LCA, I did bow out the strut while installing the ball joint into the knuckle. maybe I pulled something loose on the axle or in the transmission?
the vibration feels like something is seriously bent
2003 sxt - atx
solid motor mounts
new lower control arms
new struts
shifts smooth
A: lower torque strut is out of alignment (but why would it stop in neutral?)
B: when installing the drivers side LCA, I did bow out the strut while installing the ball joint into the knuckle. maybe I pulled something loose on the axle or in the transmission?
the vibration feels like something is seriously bent
2003 sxt - atx
solid motor mounts
new lower control arms
new struts
shifts smooth

-Sean
Official "I'm driving my neon till' it dies #28
BLK 03' NEON SXT 150,000 MILES
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freelancer1988
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maybe the trans mount is wearing out? I am unsure really, but figured I would give some idea. I just replaced my motor mount, torque mounts, and trans mount this weekend. (then driver cv exploded
) I had a similar problem, but I didn't have the solid mounts. That fixed my issue. I am assuming you are talking about the torque mounts being solid? Sorry for the newbness. Maybe something is loose. Check all bolts and nuts where you did the lca's and measure the torque mounts to make sure they are aligned... if solid need to be aligned of course. Idunno
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occasional demons
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You would have had to really pull the knuckle out to damage the CV joint. Just enough to slide the BJ stud into the knuckle shouldn't hurt. But more than that could, if you really yanked on it. Even then, IDK...
You may have to put it in the air, and put it in drive, and look to see if anything is obvious. Just keep clear of moving parts.
You may have to put it in the air, and put it in drive, and look to see if anything is obvious. Just keep clear of moving parts.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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Donkeypuncher
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jrumann59
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if something was bent it would be there during movement only but wouldn't matter the temp of the motor. I would check to make sure nothing is rubbing along the drive line. Does it make this noise at idle?
bone-yard-racing wrote:
Remind him of two things for the mustang:
Slow in=Fast out
Fast in=Ambulance out

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Donkeypuncher
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I'd put my money on the motor mount. Automatics put a constant load on the engine when in gear, which would explain why it smooths out in neutral.
Problem is you can't really see the mount to diagnose it. If the rubber is ripped you might be able to see fluid leaking down the inside of the frame rail, but you'd probably have to power brake it back and forth from D to R to squeeze the fluid out. You could try watching the bolt in the wheel well while power braking it to see if it has excessive movement. Aside from that, you'd have to pull it apart.
How many miles are on the car?
Problem is you can't really see the mount to diagnose it. If the rubber is ripped you might be able to see fluid leaking down the inside of the frame rail, but you'd probably have to power brake it back and forth from D to R to squeeze the fluid out. You could try watching the bolt in the wheel well while power braking it to see if it has excessive movement. Aside from that, you'd have to pull it apart.
How many miles are on the car?
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freelancer1988
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Haha, not easy at all. Just did it the other day.NEON PARABOLA wrote:SORRY!
165,000 miles
I may have bowed the knuckle out by 3" but no more i wouldnt think. How easy is the center motor mount to replace?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdFV7LgIPqA
The above video is for timing belt replacement, but it is the best instructions if you have not done it. Just don't remove your crank pulley... or timing stuff.
Remove accessory belt, your power steering pump, lower and upper torque mounts, but make sure your motor is properly supported beforehand. You will also want to remove the motor, upper torque plate.
Raise the motor with jack some to remove the t55 torx bolt in behind the passenger tire.... It is in the video. lol.
The middle mount is only shown some in the video, but it is the damn thing in the frame. It is held in with 4 bolts. I believe 15mm. Just make sure you mark where it was originally bolted. You want to get it as close to original location as you can.
Also, anything after 9:45 in the video is not needed.
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Donkeypuncher
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It's certainly not fun, but difficulty depends on your level of ability. I went through hell to diagnose the motor mount on mine, does any of this sound familiar-- viewtopic.php?t=60058&highlight=center+centre+mount
Last edited by Donkeypuncher on Tue Aug 28, 2012 1:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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freelancer1988
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Very useful information. I wish I found that thread beforehand. lol. How is your mount holding up Donkeypuncher? Still good? I have the exact same mount as what you installed.Donkeypuncher wrote:It's certainly not fun, but difficulty depends on you level of ability. I went through hell to diagnose the motor mount on mine, does any of this sound familiar-- viewtopic.php?t=60058&highlight=center+centre+mount
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Donkeypuncher
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- NEON PARABOLA
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update:
Torqued (87 ft lbs) the upper torque strut, and the forward bolt on the lower this AM, made a noticeable difference. Couldn't do the rear bolt on the lower, as I was late for work (Neon repairs in the morning ftw!)
Torqued (87 ft lbs) the upper torque strut, and the forward bolt on the lower this AM, made a noticeable difference. Couldn't do the rear bolt on the lower, as I was late for work (Neon repairs in the morning ftw!)

-Sean
Official "I'm driving my neon till' it dies #28
BLK 03' NEON SXT 150,000 MILES
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