Broken vertical control arm bolt

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chipdogg
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Broken vertical control arm bolt

Post by chipdogg » Sat Sep 29, 2012 2:12 pm

Fixing my buddy's car, needed control arm bushings. I've done several sets with no issues at all, including a set at my last Neon meet in like 2 hours. Been out there for 3 hours now and got the passenger side control arm out. Vertical one sucked, 4 foot pipe on my ratchet and it fought the entire way out. Good thing it's only 5 inches long.

Driver's side, everything came apart much easier than the passenger side except for the vertical bolt. God damn piece of shit fucking bolt snapped off! Only 1/4" or so is sticking out, so I'll never get any bite on it. Before I got hacking into the frame, has anybody had this happen before?

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trojmn
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Post by trojmn » Sat Sep 29, 2012 3:04 pm

before I'd ever put that much effort on a bolt, I'd put the torch to it. but yeah im surprised as well. I'd figure the blind nut would go long before the bolt does.

heat it up real good then you might be able to grab it and twist it out.
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chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:45 pm

trojmn wrote:before I'd ever put that much effort on a bolt, I'd put the torch to it. but yeah im surprised as well. I'd figure the blind nut would go long before the bolt does.

heat it up real good then you might be able to grab it and twist it out.
The problem with putting a torch to it, is the end that goes to the nut is way up in the frame, under the carpet. And there's a rubber bushing in the way. I'd have half the car red-hot before enough heat made it to the nut.

I got it though. Enjoy.

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Decided that hole wasn't big enough.

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Still not enough room.

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Now I was able to get my cutoff wheel in there and cut a slit in the steel groove that held the nut in. Sawzalled the left wall down, and air hammered bolt up from below to knock it out. As you can see, I did attempt to cut through the nut but decided that wasn't gonna work either.

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Went in garage and found one bolt, pretty sure it's from the SRT-4. Couldn't find a 2nd, the passenger side bolt is missing pretty much all it's threads. On to the parts car.

Forgot the dash had been pulled, score! More room. Screw the hole saw, damn thing about broke my wrist already. Plus it's gonna get scrapped. Cut a large hole in each end and sprayed some penetrating oil on it. Tried it with impact, nothing. Being impatient, I grabbed my heat wrench, set it on the nut, and then hit the impact. Both bolts came right out. Pulled the nuts from their groove.

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Now I have 4 bolts, and 2 nuts, plus the one on the passenger side, which is likely toast anyways. No need to go anywhere when I have parts cars, cutoff wheels, and torches.
COME TO MY NEXT NEON MEET!!!

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trojmn
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Post by trojmn » Sat Sep 29, 2012 6:40 pm

chipdogg wrote: The problem with putting a torch to it, is the end that goes to the nut is way up in the frame, under the carpet. And there's a rubber bushing in the way. I'd have half the car red-hot before enough heat made it to the nut.
fires, smires.... yeah i forget those details when I'm staring at the problem.

glad you killed it.
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chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Sat Sep 29, 2012 6:54 pm

Me too. I took the good bolt (3 are questionable but will work), sprayed lube on bolt and the nut that's still in the car, and ran it in and out several times with the impact. It threads in by hand now, which is good. Did the same thing to the 2 nuts I have from the 2000 and also the best remaining bolt. Good to go, just gotta go get bushings.
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gilly02le
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Post by gilly02le » Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:26 am

m14 x 2.0 is the thread size/pitch, if its any interest to you. Not sure if you've got a tap and die set with this size in it, but it really helps if you ever need to get them out again. That and lots of copper anti-seize, i find the nickel-based stuff is kinda shitty.
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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:35 am

That the bolt broke is pretty crazy. It's a new one on me.

Good thing you have a Neon parts department available though :lol:
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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fixitmattman
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Post by fixitmattman » Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:52 pm

Torch it, get it glowing red hot, and get a pipe wrench on it. Mine broke exactly the same way, that's how I got it out.
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Post by freelancer1988 » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:04 pm

fixitmattman wrote:Torch it, get it glowing red hot, and get a pipe wrench on it. Mine broke exactly the same way, that's how I got it out.
I could be wrong... but your a little late to the party. :lol:
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chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:34 pm

Yeah it's all back together already. Welded up the floorboard tonight. It's ugly but it's under the carpet and it's solid. I definitely need a better welder, this little campbell-hausfield flux core 80 isn't all that great for doing sheet metal lol.

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:13 am

Yeah, flux core kinda sucks for that. My old Cricket 90 XL isn't too good at the thinner stuff. Someday I'll get a tank, and go with gas shield. Then thinner wire is an option. :)
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chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Tue Oct 02, 2012 6:08 pm

Yeah I'll get a nicer MIG one day, and a TIG too, but in the meantime I gotta insulate/expand the garage first or it won't do any good to have an awesome welder and no room to use it.
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gcretro
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Post by gcretro » Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:01 pm

Sort of off topic.... But from this pictures and pic #6 from top, looks like those oblong holes on the frame rail will easily allow one to spray like PB Blaster right on to the nut & bolt inside the Frame?

Just by sticking in the red stick.... can you confirm?

(And it's this hole that is also leading to water and other road grime get inside the frame to corrode the nut?). perhaps time to cover it with tape...


chipdogg wrote:Yeah it's all back together already. Welded up the floorboard tonight. It's ugly but it's under the carpet and it's solid. I definitely need a better welder, this little campbell-hausfield flux core 80 isn't all that great for doing sheet metal lol.

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ZeroChad
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Post by ZeroChad » Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:37 pm

I think you saw my picture on the other .org, but I'll post it for the guys here. Spun the cage nut for that bolt a few years ago. It especially sucked since I was doing it in an apartment parking lot and didn't have any high powered tools.

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chipdogg
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Post by chipdogg » Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:55 pm

Yeah I saw that before I got out the hole saw. Thanks!
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gcretro
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Post by gcretro » Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:12 pm

Anyone answer this? (Question in bold/orange). Just checking before I waste a lot of PB blaster :)
gcretro wrote:Sort of off topic.... But from this pictures and pic #6 from top, looks like those oblong holes on the frame rail will easily allow one to spray like PB Blaster right on to the nut & bolt inside the Frame?

Just by sticking in the stick from the spray can?

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[/quote]

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:42 pm

Anything you can attempt to pevent this from happening isn't a waste.

I sprayed WD40 in every opening I could find, directing the tube towards the bolt. I did this a few weeks in advance, and I didn't have much trouble from the bolts/nuts.

Whether or not it actually hit the bolt, I don't know. You would have to cut the hole to find out. Or buy one of those remote cameras.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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