Smoke problem WTF!

2003se559 · Post by **2003se559** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:52 pm

Ok so after Messing up my block after 2years of abuse (12+psi) stock block.I found a local guy with an 03 engine ( I also have an 03) so I had the engine replaced while engine was out we also replaced timing belt,water pump,thermostat,exhaust intake and oil pan gaskets,plugs wires all that good stuff. Well car is run in now and I noticed that sometimes when I turn on the car smoke will come out of the tail pipes wtf! So I am wondering what could the problem be? Car Idels fine just feels a lil lazy after 4-5k rpm any input is greatly appreciated [/list]

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:12 pm

Probably bad valve seals/guides. The worn seals, and/or guides let oil drain into the intake, or exhaust ports while the engine is off. Once started it then smokes until the oil is burnt off. This can happen randomly, or as time goes on, consistently. Doesn't matter if cold, or hot.

On mine the exhaust guides were bad, but it hadn't started visibly smoking. 112,000 miles.

You could try just new seals, but if the guides are worn, they will wear out new seals due to the stems constantly moving in the guide bore.

2003se559 · Post by **2003se559** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 8:40 am

Ya it does it randomly like every couple of days or so. Is their a way to tell if the seals are bad or do I have to just replace them
Is it hard? Thanks bill! As always you are very helpful

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:29 am

No real way to check the seals, other than maybe poking something through the spring to see if they are rock hard, but even then that would be tough to tell.

If they are visibly cracked, or missing, then it would be obvious. If you can wiggle the top of the valves stems back and forth, and it seems excessive, chances are the guides are worn.

I could really wiggle them on my Mitsu 2.6. It would do the random smoke thing. Then got more frequent.

Eventually it will get to the point, when you are sitting at a light, it will begin to smoke, then leave a cloud as you take off, and clear out.

2003se559 · Post by **2003se559** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:53 am

Do my 2 options are 1 replace valve seals 2. Remove resonator and badge my neon as a TDI lmao. Is it hard to replace seals? Guides?

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:51 pm

If it were me, just look for a cheap re-manned head. then you get all new components. good for another 100,000 miles

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 1:05 pm

Seals require removing the valve springs. You need a good air compressor to put air in the spark plug hole (compression tester with check valve removed) to hold the valves shut.

It is a PITA to do on the car, as the keepers can be difficult at times. rags over all the holes is a necessity. Small needle nose pliers, a magnet, spring compressor that hooks over the cam are needed. There are other methods too.

Since you would have the compression tester, may as well do a compression check before you even start. At least you will know where you stand, before you put time and $ into it.

2003se559 · Post by **2003se559** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:07 pm

I was told that this adittive called motor purr works for that since the engine was unused for god knows how long the seals dried up so I guess this additive is suppose to do the trick any ideas?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:19 am

Engine in a can does not work.

NEON PARABOLA · Post by **NEON PARABOLA** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:28 am

no in the can crap, youre just adding more problems by using that junk

2003se559 · Post by **2003se559** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 1:22 pm

So than just replCe the seals I guess lol thank u guys for the help!

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 3:21 pm

If it is just the seals, and the guides are fine, it should last.

I would extensively Seafoam it, to get as much of the carbon buildup from the exhaust valves as you can. No good way to actually know, but you want to keep it going in heavy, so the engine barely keeps running, so you get as much liquid going past the exhaust valves as possible to soak them.

My exhaust valves were so carbon'ed up, they weren't really sealing, and you couldn't get your pinky through the hole the exhaust was going through. All that extra mass on the valve head won't help the guides any either.

2003se559 · Post by **2003se559** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:11 pm

Thanks bill I would def give the sea foam a try 2

bobneon2k · Post by **bobneon2k** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:04 pm

Most of these guys know more than I do about engines but One thing has been overlooked that to my novice brain could have something to do with it that is not as big a deal but for all I know you have done work which would require its replacement. I will mention it anyway and if I am wrong feel free to correct me.... Have you checked the valve cover gasket? I just did a tune up and got oil in the plugs which is a clear indicator of needing a valve cover gasket. at start up this will cause smoke out of the exhaust. If this is the problem fixing it could save you a lot of work.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:35 pm

Oil in the spark plug tubes is most times the bottom of the tubes letting oil seep in. the tubes need pulled, and replaced if damaged pulling, or the surfaces degreased, and red loc-tite applied to reseal/bond them.

Now the only way that the engine will smoke from this, is if the plugs are not tight, and oil is leaking into the chamber overnight.

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