Control arm brand - Moog Problem Solver versus Dorman?

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gcretro
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Control arm brand - Moog Problem Solver versus Dorman?

Post by gcretro » Fri Oct 12, 2012 12:25 am

04 Neon SE, 117 K miles. Have some clunking felt at slow speeds when turning.

About a year back a shop told me about the control arm bushing on it's way out. So I perhaps need to replace control arms on the front. What brand of control arms do I go with?

In rockauto I saw Moog R series and Moog problem solver. What's the difference?... All these are $50 & $62 odd. Of course the cheapest is Dorman @ $42, but I doubt their quality.

Any other places to buy other than rockauto?

I don't need anything fancy just decent quality replacements.
Last edited by gcretro on Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:51 am, edited 3 times in total.

occasional demons
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Re: Control arm brand to buy

Post by occasional demons » Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:47 am

gcretro wrote:
Any other places to buy other than rockauto?

Ebay, but quality would be more suspect than Doorman. I don't think Doorman is all that bad tho. Just like anything else, you have to watch what you buy/where it is made. Their spark plug tubes are China, but then do we really know where the Mopar replacements are made?

The major chain stores are probably going to be more$ for the same brand parts, provided shipping from RA is reasonable. The location of the parts selected has a big impact there, so try swapping brands around from RA, to see what the actual shipping is.


Assuming you just want LCA's that are a bolt in affair, changing the bushings/ball joints isn't an option. :lol: (not that you can do it for much less than $60/side.)
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gcretro
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Post by gcretro » Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:32 am

I plan to get Moog Problem solver control arms.

Now do these come per-greased? or will I need to get a grease gun just this?

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Post by gcretro » Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:49 am

Bump? What brand of control arm's have folks got?

Anyone put Dorman? How has it been holding?

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Post by Codyman » Sun Oct 14, 2012 4:50 pm

I too need to replace the control arm (or well, at least the bushings) on my '05 SXT. I noticed on Rock Auto that Raybestos has a "professional grade" lighter aluminum model for $62 bucks an arm.... curious to know if that would be worth it. I figure for $62 a side plus a couple of hours of DIY, this is an easy fix vs paying a shop to do this.
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Neon4Life
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Post by Neon4Life » Sun Oct 14, 2012 6:21 pm

Hey OP what ars u asking.. are you trying to replace the entire control arm for a new one or do you just want to get new bushings for it...?
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gcretro
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Post by gcretro » Sun Oct 14, 2012 6:47 pm

Neon4Life wrote:Hey OP what ars u asking.. are you trying to replace the entire control arm for a new one or do you just want to get new bushings for it...?
Entire control arm assembly with bushings and ball joint. I am going to order Moog problem solvers. can't take risk with dorman...

Codyman, those raybestos ones are not aluminum (if you read the fine print it says when OE is aluminum)

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Post by srtgtr34 » Sun Oct 14, 2012 7:05 pm

Moog R series is their new line of control arms, they are more economically minded.

The problem solver line is better but is being fased out, once they are gone they are gone.

I find dorman parts to be ok, i would only get them, if they were the only ones getting made.

I currently have 2 problem solvers on my 2000 and they are perfect.

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Post by gcretro » Sun Oct 14, 2012 10:54 pm

srtgtr34,
do you have to keep greasing the ball joins in those moog problem solver control arms like every oil change? that's seems too often...

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Post by NickKo » Mon Oct 15, 2012 7:18 am

srtgtr34 wrote:Moog R series is their new line of control arms, they are more economically minded.

The problem solver line is better but is being fased out, once they are gone they are gone.
What ?? :o So you are saying that Moog is going to 'lower their standards' to 'compete' ??

Does this mean, that Moog parts will no longer have an advantage, quality-wise ??


( I am one of those people who is willing to pay more, for a quality part.)


I guess I am going to spend the remainder of my life "re-engineering" Chinese crap so it works properly. :x :angry7:
Oh well, I guess we can always refurbish used original parts ( including brakes ) that we find at the junkyard. Sort of like the Cubans are doing.


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Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:05 pm

gcretro wrote:srtgtr34,
do you have to keep greasing the ball joins in those moog problem solver control arms like every oil change? that's seems too often...


You shouldn't have to grease them every oil change, I would at least once a year.

they are lowering their standards a bit to compete with dorman part pricing, but they will still be better quality than the dorman control arms.

I only know this because I used to work for advanced auto parts and in one of the new product catalogs they explained all of this.

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Post by red2k2rt » Wed Nov 07, 2012 1:13 pm

ok if the bushings are shot why wouldnt you just go get urethane bushings and replace them with those? i paid 20 bucks for just the front control arm set rather than buying all new control arms. seems like a waste of money to me

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Post by sidepipe87 » Wed Nov 07, 2012 1:27 pm

If the balljoints are good then yes, there is no reason you couldnt do that
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Post by red2k2rt » Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:33 pm

even the ball joints are bad its easy as hell to swap them out. i did it on my own a few months ago. all you have to do is rent a ball joint press from advanced auto or autozone and you can have them pressed out and pressed back in about 10 minutes.

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Post by gcretro » Wed Nov 07, 2012 5:35 pm

I am getting it done via a mechanic and i think the labor to swap the control arm as a whole is cheaper. Hopefully moog control arum bushings are better, they are supposed to be problem solvers :P

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Post by red2k2rt » Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:33 pm

you realize how easy it is to swap these out yourself? just my 2 cents on this.

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Post by sidepipe87 » Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:38 pm

Just replaced both LCAs on my srt with moog problem solvers over the weekend. I've always just replaced the bushings on my other neons but didn't even want to deal with it. I wanted a drop in solution. Install was as expected, just like any other time i've done it. It sure is nice to have LCA bushings up there now
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Post by gcretro » Mon Nov 12, 2012 1:46 pm

I don't have air tools nor a garage, I got it done for 75 bucks labor total.

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Post by red2k2rt » Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:43 am

i didnt use air tools to replace mine. but to each his own.

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Post by NickKo » Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:56 pm

red2k2rt wrote:i didnt use air tools to replace mine. but to each his own.
You are a brave man. :lol:


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-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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Post by sidepipe87 » Fri Nov 16, 2012 1:40 pm

I didn't use air tools this time either. Boy that sure sucks too. Used air tools every time in the past.
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