YOUR opinion on Seafoam.....use it or don't waste the $?
YOUR opinion on Seafoam.....use it or don't waste the $?
I have read both pros and cons on using seafoam so I need a general consensus on this stuff. Is it worth using or will it make the engine worse? I heard it breaks down the oil, it clogs the fuel filter and pump so what is the real deal?? My Neon is at 199K, my wife's Caravan is at 183K so both are old, have a lot of miles and I don't want to kill them off before their due to go on their own so to speak. Opinions please, both good and bad. Thank you in advance!!
- 2005.Neon.SXT
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- Location: Raleigh, NC
I've only done seafoam once, last year, and haven't seen any negative side effects. Can't remember if I noticed any positive gains. It did smoke. A lot lol. I'll see if I can find the link.
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viewtopic.php?t=57930&highlight=seafoam
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viewtopic.php?t=57930&highlight=seafoam
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occasional demons
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Yep, pour it into the intake manifold via a vacuum hose.
It also comes in an aerosol can, but you may need to go to a real parts store for that. The aerosol is easier to control.
We generally tend to shy away from adding it to the oil. Adding to a tank of fuel, or the vacuum line method. Let it soak for a few hours if you have the time. You want to get it in there heavy enough that the engine barely keeps running, so it can soak the exhaust valves/ports as much as possible. That is where the bulk of most carbon build up will be, besides the combustion chamber.
The intake valve stay pretty clean on these. Between the oil from the PCV, and fuel being sprayed at them, they don't generally get dirty, unless you run without an air filter. Or have EGR, which is a rare 2000 model year thing.
It also comes in an aerosol can, but you may need to go to a real parts store for that. The aerosol is easier to control.
We generally tend to shy away from adding it to the oil. Adding to a tank of fuel, or the vacuum line method. Let it soak for a few hours if you have the time. You want to get it in there heavy enough that the engine barely keeps running, so it can soak the exhaust valves/ports as much as possible. That is where the bulk of most carbon build up will be, besides the combustion chamber.
The intake valve stay pretty clean on these. Between the oil from the PCV, and fuel being sprayed at them, they don't generally get dirty, unless you run without an air filter. Or have EGR, which is a rare 2000 model year thing.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
I've done it, twice. A little in the gas and the rest through the intake. Second time I changed my plugs right after... got a decent increase in gas mileage. As far as any power increase? Eeeeh, its a ATX SOHC so I honestly couldn't tell lol.
2003 SRT-4

"Cause even though you left me here, I have nothing left to fear. These are only walls that hold me here..."NEON PARABOLA wrote:you deserve respect dammit! you drive a neon!
Seafoam says use only 1/3 of the can - are you saying suck in more than that into the intake?occasional demons wrote: You want to get it in there heavy enough that the engine barely keeps running, so it can soak the exhaust valves/ports as much as possible.
And I wonder why this should be done with motor fully warmed up/hot? If the idea is for it to soak, then wouldn't doing on a cool motor keep the seafoam in liquid form and let it soak? (rather than evaporate n a hot motor?)
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mrsixstrings12
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i imagine the seafoam has been engineered to withstand the heat and having the engine warm may cause the "junk" to soften up a littlegcretro wrote:Seafoam says use only 1/3 of the can - are you saying suck in more than that into the intake?occasional demons wrote: You want to get it in there heavy enough that the engine barely keeps running, so it can soak the exhaust valves/ports as much as possible.
And I wonder why this should be done with motor fully warmed up/hot? If the idea is for it to soak, then wouldn't doing on a cool motor keep the seafoam in liquid form and let it soak? (rather than evaporate n a hot motor?)

2003 Neon SE
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occasional demons
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- Location: Ashland Ohio
I have always use the whole can. You want it hot, so it soaks into the deposits better. This stuff doesn't really evaporate.
Using the whole can, and by keeping the engine just barely running, keeps it from being burned up in the combustion process. Even if you have to restart it a few times to keep the process going...
Plus letting it set afterwards for more than the recommended 30 minutes helps. a few hours, or overnight is best.
When I did the daughter's, I had just changed the oil pressure switch before Seafoaming it. When I started it, I seem black streaming down from that area. So I shut it off to inspect. Thankfully, it was just liquefied carbon and goo running out of a crack in the exhaust. Made a wicked black stain on the drive for a while.
On the other .org, they have a how to, that entails running it through the engine, then pulling the plugs, and pouring it down the holes, and turning the engine by hand to thoroughly soak everything. Then the next day, putting a rag over the holes, and cranking it with the starter to expel the excess to prevent hydro locking.
Changing the oil after that method is recommended, as it may seep past the rings a lot more than the normal way.
Using the whole can, and by keeping the engine just barely running, keeps it from being burned up in the combustion process. Even if you have to restart it a few times to keep the process going...
Plus letting it set afterwards for more than the recommended 30 minutes helps. a few hours, or overnight is best.
When I did the daughter's, I had just changed the oil pressure switch before Seafoaming it. When I started it, I seem black streaming down from that area. So I shut it off to inspect. Thankfully, it was just liquefied carbon and goo running out of a crack in the exhaust. Made a wicked black stain on the drive for a while.
On the other .org, they have a how to, that entails running it through the engine, then pulling the plugs, and pouring it down the holes, and turning the engine by hand to thoroughly soak everything. Then the next day, putting a rag over the holes, and cranking it with the starter to expel the excess to prevent hydro locking.
Changing the oil after that method is recommended, as it may seep past the rings a lot more than the normal way.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap


