Engine (belt) squealing, which tensioner?

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mrsixstrings12
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Engine (belt) squealing, which tensioner?

Post by mrsixstrings12 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 2:11 pm

Hey everybody just a quick question. When i start my car, 90% of the time theres a loud squealing noise. It also happens when i turn my rear defroster on or air conditioning on before the engine has had time to warm up. Which tensioner do i need to replace to fix this?

This one
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1413234

or this one
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1413234
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NyNeon0813
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Post by NyNeon0813 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 3:23 pm

Might just b a loose/bad alternator belt
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mrsixstrings12
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Post by mrsixstrings12 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 5:24 pm

NyNeon0813 wrote:Might just b a loose/bad alternator belt
wouldnt the belt being loose mean i need a new tensioner or is there a way to adjust it without buying a new one?
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Nov 22, 2012 6:34 pm

The alternator has a manual adjustment. You need a 15 mm wrench to break loose the lock down nut, and a 13 mm socket/ratchet to adjust the tension. Tho you might need a new belt by now. Which requires removing the wheel, splash shield and PS/AC belt.
Bill
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mrsixstrings12
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Post by mrsixstrings12 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 7:48 pm

occasional demons wrote:The alternator has a manual adjustment. You need a 15 mm wrench to break loose the lock down nut, and a 13 mm socket/ratchet to adjust the tension. Tho you might need a new belt by now. Which requires removing the wheel, splash shield and PS/AC belt.
ah excellent! id rather buy a belt than one of those tensioners!
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Donkeypuncher
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Fri Nov 23, 2012 1:25 am

Those tensioners run about $150, the install is super fun too. I think it makes different noises than the belt squealing, and usually doesn't go away.

RayWolf
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Post by RayWolf » Sun Nov 25, 2012 10:26 am

The alt belt usually is the one that makes all the noise on the motors.

Don"t forget about the 15mm bolt on the bottom of the alt. You have to loosen that or you will never move the alt to take up the slack.

I have just replaced the pulley on the self tensioner before with minimal difficulty
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Nov 26, 2012 8:13 am

It will move to tighten the belt, but maybe not so much to loosen it. Mine has never been tight enough to keep it from pivoting. I basically keep it snug enough to stay put, but not cranked down. One less step to worry about.

It would need to be very tight to keep that jack screw from moving it.

Just don't over tighten it. You could eventually wipe #1 main bearing from the constant load.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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NEON PARABOLA
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Post by NEON PARABOLA » Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:31 am

yeah, dont over tighten the alt, you will know if you do cause the alt will start humming....
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