Engine (belt) squealing, which tensioner?
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mrsixstrings12
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Engine (belt) squealing, which tensioner?
Hey everybody just a quick question. When i start my car, 90% of the time theres a loud squealing noise. It also happens when i turn my rear defroster on or air conditioning on before the engine has had time to warm up. Which tensioner do i need to replace to fix this?
This one
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1413234
or this one
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1413234
This one
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1413234
or this one
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1413234

2003 Neon SE
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NyNeon0813
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mrsixstrings12
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occasional demons
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The alternator has a manual adjustment. You need a 15 mm wrench to break loose the lock down nut, and a 13 mm socket/ratchet to adjust the tension. Tho you might need a new belt by now. Which requires removing the wheel, splash shield and PS/AC belt.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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mrsixstrings12
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ah excellent! id rather buy a belt than one of those tensioners!occasional demons wrote:The alternator has a manual adjustment. You need a 15 mm wrench to break loose the lock down nut, and a 13 mm socket/ratchet to adjust the tension. Tho you might need a new belt by now. Which requires removing the wheel, splash shield and PS/AC belt.

2003 Neon SE
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Donkeypuncher
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The alt belt usually is the one that makes all the noise on the motors.
Don"t forget about the 15mm bolt on the bottom of the alt. You have to loosen that or you will never move the alt to take up the slack.
I have just replaced the pulley on the self tensioner before with minimal difficulty
Don"t forget about the 15mm bolt on the bottom of the alt. You have to loosen that or you will never move the alt to take up the slack.
I have just replaced the pulley on the self tensioner before with minimal difficulty
Quotes to live by
"Try again, fail again. Fail better." Samuel Beckett
"The farther backward you can look, the farther forward you will see." Winston Churchill
"Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world." Albert Einstein
"Try not. Do or do not." Yoda
"Try again, fail again. Fail better." Samuel Beckett
"The farther backward you can look, the farther forward you will see." Winston Churchill
"Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world." Albert Einstein
"Try not. Do or do not." Yoda
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occasional demons
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It will move to tighten the belt, but maybe not so much to loosen it. Mine has never been tight enough to keep it from pivoting. I basically keep it snug enough to stay put, but not cranked down. One less step to worry about.
It would need to be very tight to keep that jack screw from moving it.
Just don't over tighten it. You could eventually wipe #1 main bearing from the constant load.
It would need to be very tight to keep that jack screw from moving it.
Just don't over tighten it. You could eventually wipe #1 main bearing from the constant load.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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