motor mount question

Mckilla · Post by **Mckilla** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:50 am

my engine is sagging towards the passenger side of the car. I was trying to change the torque strut thinking that was the problem but I noticed from watching ppl change theirs online that their engines held their position even with the upper torque strut removed.. Mine is sagging with it and drops even more when i remove it. I dont see NO type of connection with the mount and the engine..

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DetergentCandy · Post by **DetergentCandy** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:08 am

Mckilla wrote: I dont see NO type of connection with the mount and the engine..

Well there's your problem!

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:36 am

There should be a bolt from the wheel well to the engine mount bracket.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:20 pm

^should be, but clearly his fell out or snapped off...

dude get that replaced asap, thats a hazard

Mckilla · Post by **Mckilla** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:41 pm

Does the missing bolt indicative of a bad motor mount.. Where can I get this bolt.. Tried to find it with mopar.. Anyone have the item #

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:41 pm

its probably time for it to be changed, (although a missing bolt doesnt mean its bad) rubber tends to crack and dry rot after this many years and i'm sure nobody has replaced it. i'll see if i can find the part #, the bolt came with my new mount from rock auto but i'm sure mopar you have to order it separate.
edit*
Bolt m12-1.75x80 part # 6505148AA
Mount part # 4668192AC

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 3:24 pm

Yeah, I didn't have time to finish typing.

If the bolt is just missing, you might be lucky, in that respect. If it is broken off, then you are going to be halfway to a timing belt change, because you will likely have to remove the motor mount/tensioner plate to get the broken bolt end out.

Trace around the mount to get it back in the same place after removing it. Usually the motor mount plate needs to come out to change the mount anyways.

Mckilla · Post by **Mckilla** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 5:58 pm

occasional demons wrote:Yeah, I didn't have time to finish typing.

If the bolt is just missing, you might be lucky, in that respect. If it is broken off, then you are going to be halfway to a timing belt change, because you will likely have to remove the motor mount/tensioner plate to get the broken bolt end out.

Trace around the mount to get it back in the same place after removing it. Usually the motor mount plate needs to come out to change the mount anyways.

Yea, its broken off. I got the bolt. So the cause of the bolt breaking is due to the bad engine mount or it just being old?

So removing the motor mount bracket would probable be easier than welding the bolt out huh?

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:12 pm

The bolt probably rusted and got fatigued then snapped. You might be able to drill it out if the bolt isn't seized up, would be a lot easier than pulling the bracket.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 7:07 pm

^ While true he really should replace the mount, it's old and probably in poor shape

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 3:22 am

Yeah it would be a temporary fix just to buy some time, I imagine it would snap the bolt again after a while.

Seems like a whole lot of rust in that engine bay, I'm curious to see what your k-frame and control arms look like.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 4:07 pm

Donkeypuncher wrote: Seems like a whole lot of rust in that engine bay, I'm curious to see what your k-frame and control arms look like.

I'm wondering if the A/C clutch isn't slinging metal dust, from all that rust color everywhere.

To drill it out, the mount would need to come out, or you will have to line the engine up perfectly to get the drill through the mount to get to the broken bolt.

You are still stuck with going through the bolt hole in the inner fender tho. And hope you have a bit long enough.

In the end, it is probably simpler to just pull the plate. And if near the 105,000 mile mark, replace the timing components/water pump.

Mckilla · Post by **Mckilla** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:13 pm

Nah.. The rust was from radiator.. Jus haven't had a chance to clean the engine bay

Mckilla · Post by **Mckilla** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:57 pm

Donkeypuncher wrote:Yeah it would be a temporary fix just to buy some time, I imagine it would snap the bolt again after a while.

Seems like a whole lot of rust in that engine bay, I'm curious to see what your k-frame and control arms look like.

Why would it snap again after a while?

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:42 pm

If the mount it goes through is not replaced, the extra slop in it will put more stress on the bolt. With it sagging, it is putting the load on the lower TS also, creating a bind between the center mount and the lower.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:21 am

I vaguely remember an old thread where somebody just kept replacing the motor mount bolt every so often.

Mckilla · Post by **Mckilla** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 5:35 am

How do you actually tell if the engine mount has gone bad.. what wears on it? I replaced the bolt but the old mount is still in there but i hear a slight grinding noise that sounds as if it is coming from the bolt when i take off or accelerate from 3rd to 4th

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 6:22 am

What you are hearing is engine vibration as the mount is being torqued. It's the classic sign of a bad motor mount and it only gets worse over time. I had a hell of a time figuring it out viewtopic.php?t=60058

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