SRT-4 swap starts and then dies....help?

Doing a SRT-4 Motor swap into your Neon, maybe even a 2.4... have questions about it, what you'll need or what issues you'll run into? Answers can be found in here.
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srt4eh
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SRT-4 swap starts and then dies....help?

Post by srt4eh » Sat Aug 24, 2013 8:42 pm

Alright....I'm doing a SRT-4 swap into my 2000 Neon. 2000 dash harness but everything else is SRT-4. I turn the key and the car starts fine but will die almost immediately. If I try again it will start and idle for a couple seconds just fine and then go rough and die. If I watch my wideband I can watch it go leaner and leaner until it dies.

Here's what I have done so far:
-TPS and IAC rewire
-swapped out coil
-replaced spark plugs
-swapped out plug wires
-swapped fuel injectors
-swapped fuel pressure regulators
-swapped fuel pumps
-swapped iat sensor
-swapped map/tip sensors
-swapped cam sensor
-replaced alternator
-checked grounds
-checked fuses and relays (including ASD relay/fuse)
-swapped pcm/skim/key with known good
-swapped upstream o2 sensor

I'm at a loss currently. I'm not throwing any codes most of the time. If anything I get P0073 Ambient Temp High....I have the AGP sensor in my hardpipe currently but I'm under the impression that would not cause my car to shut off. Car is just a basic stage 2 setup with a cold side pipe, 3" downpipe, and an aftermarket bov.

FYI....revving the car will keep it running for a little bit but after a couple revs it will respond erratically and rpms will not correspond to my pedal pushing.

Someone suggested swapping the crank sensor and the temp sensor in the hardpipe but I figure it should be throwing a code if the crank sensor was bad. From what I have read and researched - the only difference between the 2000 dash harness and the 03-05 dash harness is the turn signal wire. Could the fact that I have an automatic 2000 harness throw things off? (I have a srt4 dash harness if necessary)

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Adam G
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Post by Adam G » Sat Aug 24, 2013 9:14 pm

i was always told you had to run the srt4 or 03-05 dash harness
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Post by srt4eh » Sat Aug 24, 2013 9:31 pm

I thought that as well but I read in the SRT-4 engine swap sticky:
"00 is the hardest since that year it was a cable clutch where 01+ models which includes the SRT is hydro. In 00 you'll have to modify the firewall to fit the clutch master cylinder.

00-02... rumor has it that 03+ the core supports are the same to allow for the intercooler to mount up... not sure if it's true though Confused in 00-02 you must cut the core support and make holes to mount the intercooler. you must also move one pin on the main wiring harness that comes though the firewall that connects to the dash and body harness. That wire is for the front turn signal as they moved it one pin over in 03+ models."

I assumed that the harness would work fine....

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:11 am

Did you use the SKIM module from the SRT-4 that is matched to the PCM? If not you need to either swap that out, or get your SKIM 4 digit pin flashed into your PCM to make them match. The SKIM is your issue here. Hence the start and stall.
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Post by srt4eh » Sun Aug 25, 2013 1:43 pm

Yes I did. I also swapped in a stock srt PCM with matching skim and key and it did the same thing. I'm not getting a code for a skim issue and if it was a true skim issue I wouldn't be able to keep the car running by revving it.

Perhaps the 2000 dash wiring is different for the skim stuff and its not liking it?

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sun Aug 25, 2013 6:32 pm

Didn't realize revving it would keep it running. Did you change the fuel pump?
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Post by srt4eh » Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:02 pm

Yes - fuel pump is good

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:35 pm

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? if the FPR's were not new, I wouldn't trust them. They tend to take a shit after sitting a while if they were previously used.

I would hook up a gauge, and see what the fuel pressure is actually doing. It sure seems to match the symptoms of running out of fuel.

You should get a lean code tho, but until you can confirm the actual FP, it might be dying before it can set a code. And no, the crank sensor will rarely set a code, but usually it will just plain outright quit running. If you have a steady tach signal, the crank sensor is good.
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Post by srt4eh » Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:34 pm

I tested the fuel pressure yesterday - 58psi at key on and holds steady while the car kills itself. I still swapped out the fpr and fuel pump just for piece of mind and there was no change :(

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Post by r/tguy02 » Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:49 am

i saw you rewired the iac but didnt swap it out with a known good one, might want to try that.
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:44 am

IAC should have no impact while revving.
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Post by r/tguy02 » Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:45 pm

ah didnt catch the reving part at the bottom. NVM on the IAC then.

i'd check your timing, my car did the same exact thing pretty much when the cam gear adj came loose.
Justin
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srt4eh
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Post by srt4eh » Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:08 pm

Hmm...alright - I'll check that tonight. Thanks

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Post by srt4eh » Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:41 pm

So...while going to check the crank sensor I noticed the clutch slave cylinder didn't feel solid so I pulled it out and swapped it with a spare I had laying around. I probably didn't bleed it enough but tried starting it anyways. Car runs for a lot longer than before...still eventually dies. If I put it in 1st and keep the clutch down the mph will actuate while the car stumbles and eventually dies. It honestly feels like a car feels when you stall it...thoughts?

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Post by srt4eh » Wed Aug 28, 2013 11:31 pm

I guess there's a spacer that goes between the pedals and the firewall that my 2000 auto shell didn't come with. Guess I will pull the spacer from my srt donor car and see what I can do this weekend.

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Post by srt4eh » Sat Aug 31, 2013 2:22 am

So I pulled everything out just to find the car had a similar spacer already. I put everything back and bled the clutch slave once and adjusted the piece that attaches to the pedals. Car runs longer now but still stalls out eventually. Super hard or impossible to put in gear while its running which leads me to believe its still some kind of clutch engagement issue.

Tomorrow I'll probably try bleeding the slave like 20 times and max out the adjustment on the pedal and see what happens

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Post by srt4eh » Sun Sep 01, 2013 3:06 pm

What would cause my cluster to light up like a Christmas tree when I turn on the high beams with key off? Key on I can get the fuel pump to prime...

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Post by mopar2 » Sun Sep 01, 2013 5:12 pm

Bad ground causing feedback?
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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:06 pm

ask speed127 you need to use SRT-4 pedals on an SRT swap.
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Post by srt4eh » Mon Sep 02, 2013 2:34 am

I am using srt pedals. As for the grounding...yeah...I'm assuming that's what is going on...sucks though lol

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Post by srt4eh » Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:56 am

So...after swapping the ignition switch, multifunction switch, dash harness, and messing with the headlights I found that one of the grounds out of the 4 by the driver headlight was a little frayed and loose in the metal connector. Redid that and now the car runs gloriously. I had a feeling it was a ground but I never checked the actual wires...just made sure they were all there. Now I know...

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Post by akirony » Thu Sep 26, 2013 1:47 pm

Thanks for the update. And glad you got it to stay running.
Have car-have car problems. Have srt4-have speed problems
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