There may be hope!

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons… just anything that is generally "engine" specific. This also includes questions about exhaust systems such as exhaust manifolds, piping size, mufflers, ect...
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millerwelder
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There may be hope!

Post by millerwelder » Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:26 am

For anyone interested-viewtopic.php?t=67217

I have been up all night worrying and researching. I'm going to do a wet compression test to see if it's the valves or the rings. If it ends up being the valves is there any reason I can't use this head (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... vi=1413267) and add a cam?

This may save enough money that the accountant/fiance' may approve and I don't have to sell my recaptured youth lol

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Neon4Life
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Post by Neon4Life » Sat Feb 01, 2014 8:01 am

people might be able to help you if u let them know what the problem is.. also thats expensive.. new valve seals,head gasket, bolts cost way less than that.
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millerwelder
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Post by millerwelder » Sat Feb 01, 2014 9:25 am

Ok, sorry- I put the link to the first thread I started b/c I didn't know if it would be ok to put all the info in two places.

It started with a flashing CEL and a P0301 code. Misfire, #1 cylinder. I replaced the spark plugs and it went away for a couple days then came back. I was scared to do a compression check and based on mileage I decided to go ahead and reseat the spark plug tubes (unfortunately the only one still seated and not leaking was #1) and put a new coil and plug wires on it. I decided after doing that I needed to just get it over with and do a compression check to be sure.

Well, bad news- No compression for #1 :/ So a little later today I'm going to do a wet compression check to see if it's the valves or the rings. The weirdest part about this whole thing is it idles great, seems to have plenty of power and gets seemingly normal mileage though I haven't calculated it. The car just plain runs really well. You'd think on three cylinders it would struggle to idle or something but you'd never know anything was wrong if the CEL wasn't flashing.

Not really that experienced with head work but I figured I'd have to or should replace everything but the actual head (which was pretty expensive on MP) then there was still the machine shop to pay. That's why I got excited about the complete head at O'Reillys' for $449 with all the testing and machine work done. Is there a cheaper/better way? I am all ears for suggestions, I'm hoping someone with a lot more knowledge than me will chime in and tell me I wrong and it's not that involved.

NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Sat Feb 01, 2014 10:17 am

millerwelder wrote:Is there a cheaper/better way? I am all ears for suggestions, I'm hoping someone with a lot more knowledge than me will chime in and tell me I wrong and it's not that involved.
*Assuming* that the issue is in the cylinder head / valve(s) and not the piston rings.... You can bring it back to life with a cylinder head swap.

If this was my car.... I would raid the local junkyard for the lowest-mileage SOHC Neon engine I could find, and pull the cylinder head myself. :D
Assuming the engine was taken care of, and it's clean, it may need a only a bare minimum of head work.


*Tip* - I prefer to pull the cylinder head myself, because I follow the torque sequence for the cyl.head bolts during removal as well as during installation....
I start by 'cracking' the head bolts loose - And - following the torque sequence, gradually loosen the bolts in order.
The reason I do this, is to minimize the amount of warpage that will occur - keeping the amount of resurfacing and cutting needed, to an absolute minimum. It works !! :thumbright:
I would still have it checked for flatness and have it 'planed' and machined to bring it into spec - But it won't be far out of whack.



I replaced a cylinder head on a '97 Neon, for a girl I used to work with.
I found a donor cylinder head from the junkyard.
Due to careful removal, the cylinder head warpage was only .005" of an inch (the specs call for .004".) So, it was not far off. :)
This kept the amount of machining to a minimum - And her cost down as well. :D

I checked the valve guides for excessive clearance, by inserting the valves and made sure there was no excessive 'slop' or play.
I cleaned the valves, installed new seals, bolted it on, and got it running.

Hell, I was impressed with how well the car ran afterward.... Not to mention the owner. :D


Moral of the story:
If you know what you are doing, junkyard parts can be a great bargain.
:thumbup:


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sat Feb 01, 2014 11:10 am

If the compression is 100% zero, it is probably a valve, or a hole in the piston. Even with shot rings, it will still pump some sort of air. Short of the rings totally missing that is.

It probably runs halfway decent, because the cylinder is not making compression, so it isn't taking a lot of power away from the other three cylinders. If you had a louder exhaust, the sound would still be somewhat noticeable. Assuming you have the original muffler. I know with my oem muffler, you couldn't tell the car was running.
Bill
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Seriously people, this is 2019 not 1920.
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millerwelder
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Post by millerwelder » Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:09 pm

I copy and pasted this from my original thread because I feel like it could be relevant here as well.

"Pretty sure it's a stuck or bent valve, zero compression on the #1 cylinder :/ Debating selling it and if there's a cool car in the classifieds after I get this outage out of the way picking it up. (like the white ACR.... Soooo dreamy,lol) O'reilley's had a complete rebuilt head (see other thread) for $450 but I've had a lot of people tell me that's too much $ and I can get a junkyard head, have it machined put new seals in it ect. for cheaper. If that was the case couldn't I just use my head and replace the valve? I was thinking $450 for a head rebuilt, tested and a warranty was pretty good. I don't know how much machine work costs but I figure between that, the actual cost of the head, seals and whatever other parts I'd need I'd be around the same price without the warranty and wondering when the other used stuff would break. Also, I'm confidant in switching the heads but not so sure I wouldn't mess anything up rebuilding the head. On top of all that, I'm relatively new to Cincinnati and don't have any friends to help and my neighbors while awesome can't even change a tire. So working within my comfort level and skill set I'm leaning towards the o'reilly's head or just selling it for what I have in it."

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