Here is everything you need from an SRT-4: Knuckle/hub assembly, rotors, calipers, brake lines and e-brake cables. The knuckles are under the hubs...I just didn't take a good enough picture, sorry.
I'm starting with the inside e-brake stuff first, because it's easier to do this when the car is still flat on the ground.
1. Remove the 4 screws in the bottom of the center storage area and 2 screws in the lower cupholders. Pull the parking brake lever as high as you can get it without hurting yourself. Remove the shift knob. Now lift the center console out of the car.
2. Pull up on the single output cable of the e-brake with your fingers and slide a punch or something thin and strong through the hole in the e-brake mechanism. This allows slack on the individual cables so you can take them off.
3. Once there is slack, remove the two cables from the equalizer bracket.
4. Remove the rear seat cushion (simply pull up on the front of it). Remove the door sills on each side by pulling up on them, and also remove the single plastic push pins on each side.
5. Pull the carpet out a bit from where it's tucked under stuff, and fold it forward to expose the e-brake cables.
6. Put a 12 point 1/2" box end wrench over the clips that hold the cables into the center console bracket, and slide the wrench onto the clips until they are compressed and you can pull the cables rearward and free of the bracket.
7. Remove the outside bracket on each side holding the e-brake cables to the underside of the car.
8. Now work the rubber grommets that seal the holes where each cable enters the car backwards and out, and you'll be able to pull the cables completely free of the car. Okey doke, e-brake conquered.
9. Jack the rear of the car up enough to take the rear wheels off and have some room to work. Remove the rear wheels....obviously.
10. Removing the knuckles is very straitforward...you have four bolts to remove and the brake line to disconnect and that's it.
12. Before disconnecting the brake line, brace the brake pedal with something that will hold it at least 1.5 inches compressed. This isolates the the master cylinder from the rest of the system so all your brake fluid doesn't dribble out all over the place when you open the lines. A little will come out, but your master cylinder reservoir won't drain out.
13. Disconnect a rear brake line. If you only do one at a time, it's easier to bleed later. I swapped one side completely, then the other side completely, so that only one brake line was open at a time.
14. Time for the knuckles....after doing one side, I realized it's easiest to take the long bolt that goes through both lateral control arms out first, because it takes some hammering and a little vibration coaxing from an impact wrench to get it to slide out....and all that is easier to do when the brake assembly isn't flopping all over the place.
15. Now take the two bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle out. Don't do this.....
Actually that lower strut-to-knuckle bolt broke on both sides....I think they had been in and out too many times, and the tire shop probably torqued them too much when I had my last alignment. But at least my camber bolts didn't break...I was gentle with them, 'cause they are thinner. Anyway after this happened, I was a little pissed and didn't care as much about taking good how-to pictures because I had to drive 25 minutes one way to the auto parts store to get some 2.5" long, 1/2" grade 8 bolts, nuts and nylock washers. And I was on a time schedule....broken bolts don't fit into time schedule's well.
16. Finally, remove the nut that holds the tension strut to the knuckle by putting a wrench on the flat section of the tension strut and a ratchet on the nut. Otherwise the tension strut will twist in the rubber and the nut will never break free. Now you should be looking something like this...
17. Install your new SRT knuckle/hub assembly. Note my nice grade 8 lower strut bolt....
18. Install the new everything the same way the old stuff came off, but don't torque the control arm nut until the car is back flat on the ground. Then torque it to 70 ft/lbs.
19. Put on the rotor and caliper.
20. Now bleed each rear caliper until you just get fluid...no bubbles. It takes two people to do this. One to push the brake pedal and one to open and close the bleeder screw. Always remember - Push pedal, open bleeder, close bleeder, release pedal.....repeat.
And please, but a little rubber hose on the bleeder to direct it to a pan or bottle or something so fluid doesn't just run everywhere...that makes baby Jesus cry. If you have to make a trip to the parts store JUST to get a small rubber hose that will fit the bleeder in order to do this......DO IT. 21. Finally, reinstall the e-brake business. It should be pretty obvious what to do...just reverse the taking off process. Good job, you now have rear disc brakes.
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