Brake Pads

DannyBoy · Post by **DannyBoy** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 3:29 am

I have 28K on my car now and my wear indicators are touching the rotor, plus the pad is less than 1/8 of an inch, which is the minimum for brake pad width. I was wondering if 28K seemed a little too early to change the pads, seems like pads should last a lot longer.

What kind of pads would you guys recommend? Are there any good rotors out there too?

juicyjay504 · Post by **juicyjay504** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 11:39 am

I have the Raybestos ceramic qiet stops(or something like that) and its pretty much the first time since ive had my car my brakes dont sqeek a lot and this is the 2nd set of brake pads ive had.

Jay

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:32 pm

I'm using HAWK HPS pads and love them.

Mopar00Neon · Post by **Mopar00Neon** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 1:40 pm

I had about that many miles when I did my first brake job. My raybestos pads are at about 50% now at 51,000 miles, but Im about ready to change them again.

I *really* like OEM rotors (not cheap parts stores ones, but OEM from the dealer). and Im fixin to get the Hawk HPS pads. We put the greenstuffs on a friends car last weekend, and theyre GREAT, but We're wanting to compair. Plus the Hawks are $50, whereas the Greens are $90.

noTe · Post by **noTe** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 5:56 pm

DannyBoy wrote:I have 28K on my car now and my wear indicators are touching the rotor, plus the pad is less than 1/8 of an inch, which is the minimum for brake pad width. I was wondering if 28K seemed a little too early to change the pads, seems like pads should last a lot longer.

What kind of pads would you guys recommend? Are there any good rotors out there too?

Heh, I changed my front pads last week and I'm changing the rears this week and I have 21,900 miles on my car.

Replaced them with HAWK pads. Later on I'll be replacing everything with StopTech (If Brembo never comes out with a brake kit)

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 6:39 pm

noTe wrote:Heh, I changed

*cough* AH HEM lol

noTe · Post by **noTe** » Wed Oct 20, 2004 7:49 pm

Diablo0 wrote:
noTe wrote:Heh, I changed
*cough* AH HEM lol

Ok, Jason did the right side, I did the left side, but I could have done both sides.

Baal · Post by **Baal** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 6:42 am

I have the Hawk HP + pads... and they are just too much for street use imo. get the regular hp.

Frizbe · Post by **Frizbe** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:35 pm

cool then I'll be getting Hawk HP + pads also whats the part number on them?

TomZ · Post by **TomZ** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:48 pm

I used to change my wife's '97 Grand Am front pads at 15K-20K. It wasn't her, it was the car. With other cars she drove, brake wear was normal. My 2k2 has 43K on the factory pads, but I drive a lot of freeway miles. To a degree, it depends on how you drive. Ceramics are good if you don't need real HP pads. Their big advantage is low dust. (Keeps your wheels cleaner) If you go with a too agressive pad on the street, you may not heat them enough to utilize their HP characteristics and actually increase your stopping distance. Be realistic about your needs, and buy accordingly.

Frizbe · Post by **Frizbe** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 9:25 pm

ohhh... thanx how much do ceramics run usually?

Knoxville_R/T · Post by **Knoxville_R/T** » Sat Nov 06, 2004 11:38 pm

i have some pfc carbon metalic pads from autozone. only $50 a pair and have a liftime garrantee. that way u only pay one fee of 50 and the rest are free. work just fine for me. i personally think that he hp's are a little over the top unless u auto-x.
-Brian

JeremyJ · Post by **JeremyJ** » Sat Nov 13, 2004 4:56 am

I just installed Hawk pads with Powerslot 2 rotors on the front of my 2k2. My stock brakes had about 70K on them and they still looked fine when I removed them. The new pads grip very well, but they tend to lock up easier on wet pavement. Other than that slight, potentially fatal flaw...they're great!

Now I just need to swap the rear to discs and I'll be happy.

Louie · Post by **Louie** » Sat Nov 13, 2004 12:35 pm

i have been using the Hawk HP+ pads for a while and love them.

my car never says no when i tell it to stop. they're very easy to modulate and they do not fade. also. .the more agressive you're driving, the better they stop.

only downside. .is they squeak. but they're not annoying.

Stonebender · Post by **Stonebender** » Sat Nov 13, 2004 3:28 pm

I just installed Hawk HPS pads and Powerslot rotors, too. I doubt any benefit comes from the rotors, but the pads are awesome. On my last stop bedding them in, my eyeballs actually came out, and I had to pick them up off the dashboard. Well, not really, but they are kickass.

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 12:35 pm

i just noticed i almost have no pads in the rear (maybe why my ebrake barely works on a hill) ill be gettn Hawk HPS

when they refer to REAR/FRONT SET does that mean the rear set does both rears? or do i need 2 sets?

Post by **Diablo0** » Sun Jul 17, 2005 4:49 pm

Nope... the set will do both sides so you'll get 4 pads in the box.

As for your ebrake, the pads that are used for stopping your car are really not the onces that are used for your ebrake. If you look at your rear rotor you'll notice that it has a large hub in the center. That hub houses a small drum brake setup which is your ebrake. You could try adjusting your ebrake cable tensioner under your center console b/c the cable can sometimes stretch over time. Also...if you've done any ebrake turns

or done anything that like putting a lot of wear on the small ebrake pads you could need to replace those pads.

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 5:29 pm

well i have my new hawk hps pads, now what all do i need besides tools to install them? skimming thru the FSM it said something about some mopar lubricant. sadly ive never changed brake pads in my life, not even on my 1st gen that i had for 5 years

Post by **Diablo0** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 7:07 pm

It's a VERY easy job, you shouldn't need any lube other than to maybe lube the guide bolts that hold the calipar on.

Just follow the FSM and you shouldn't have any problems. The only adivce I can give you is before you install the new pads in the calipar, take a farily large C-Clamp and use it to push the piston in the calipar in so you'll have enough room to fit the new pads over the rotor. Before you push it in with the clamp, take off your brake fluid resoulver cap and as you push the piston in have someone or you yourself watch the level of the fluid rise because some might overflow and if it gets on a painted surface it will cause the paint to bubble up and peal.

Other than that... if you have the FSM, follow the directions in it and you'll be set.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 7:18 pm

OK, so here is the next topic to this chapter...
Slotted rotors or drilled.....
Rumors state that the drilled rotors crack, where as the slotted do not...any suggestions?

dawm · Post by **dawm** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 7:23 pm

any recommendations on caliper paint? id like to paint em red while im at it.

Post by **Diablo0** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 7:27 pm

I'd stay with slotted... you just hear to many things about drilled. I love my powerslots, had them for about 2 years not going on about 30K and no warping like my stocks did.

Pickup some Hi-Temp engine enamale or buy one of those brake calipar painting kits that I think DuPoint makes. You can find them at Autozone

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Thu Jul 21, 2005 8:39 pm

My 03 SXT had Plum Crazy colored calipers....
All I did was clean the metal...use high temp(1500+) degree primer or flat black as a base coat...use Boyds Plum Crazy model car paint for the color and then used a High Temp(1500+) clear coat over that...I had PlumCrazy colored calipers on my black neon SXT and it looked sweet...

2GN.ORG

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