Changing Brake Pads

OB · Post by OB » Mon May 22, 2006 10:50 am

hey guys I orderered a fresh set of Hawk HPS pads to replace my stock front pads. A freind of mine said that he tried to change the pads on his tiburon and needed a special tool to "adjust" the caliper in order to remove and replace the pad. I wasnt aware of such a procedure and was wondering if anyone knew whether the Neons front pads are straight bolt on or if there is indeed a special tool required. I plan on using my service manual for the specs, but I thought id ask anyways just in case. other than that, please let me know of any tricks to make things easier, and anything else i might want to know regarding the brake pads. thanks!

ob

Project Draven · Post by **Project Draven** » Mon May 22, 2006 11:14 am

No special tools needed.
Just some basic hand tools!

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Mon May 22, 2006 12:25 pm

i think your talking about the compressor... (pushes the piston/cylinder back in) if you don't have it you can use a C clamp and a small piece of wood/hard material. you put the wood accross the piston/cylinder in order to compress (puts even pressure) it.

Project Draven · Post by **Project Draven** » Mon May 22, 2006 1:01 pm

I just used the old brake pads! Saves ya from looking for a block of wood!

OB · Post by OB » Mon May 22, 2006 2:37 pm

yeah that might be it. can u give me some more detail on how its done guys? im not too familiar with the brakes but i really wanna do this one myself and i cant afford to screw up! thanks!

Project Draven · Post by **Project Draven** » Mon May 22, 2006 2:58 pm

How many miles you got for the need of new brakes????
Take your wheels off, The caliper bolts I think are either 14mm or 17mm. Use a Deep well socket.
Remove caliper, and use a C clamp to press the piston of the caliper back in. Leave the old Brake pads there to keep even press sure. INstall new pads. replace!
Repeat for other side!
Really not all that hard!

OB · Post by OB » Mon May 22, 2006 3:04 pm

I have a bit over 15k and my brakes are super worn, my gf's neon has less than half the miles as mine and the brakes arent mushy or soft at all. mine are soft and u dont feel response till the pedal is depressed like halfway. the rears last longer from what ive been told, so im gonna change to hawks to get that extra bite and fresh brake feel! I like the car to feel new and crisp.

anyways thanks for the write up ill prob be back with some more questions soon!

grambo · Post by **grambo** » Mon May 22, 2006 3:06 pm

Bleed those bad boys when you are done with the procedure above dude.....

Project Draven · Post by **Project Draven** » Mon May 22, 2006 3:08 pm

Shouldnt really have to bleed for a basic install of the fronts.
But it is a good Idea.

grambo · Post by **grambo** » Mon May 22, 2006 3:19 pm

Mushy pedals brings back visions of my 71' Bronco...it always needed to be bled.

Project Draven · Post by **Project Draven** » Mon May 22, 2006 4:35 pm

Yeah, if your mushy, Bleed those brakes!
Easy process, but you will need another person to help you!

OB · Post by OB » Mon May 22, 2006 7:41 pm

shoot how is that done exactly? whats the best fluid to fill it with? ive heard that high performance brake fluid can make the brakes feel much firmer and more accurate as well as resist fade. anyone know much about this and what kind/brand to go with? there needs to be a how to on everything-brakes! this is brand new stuff to me thanks everyone

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Mon May 22, 2006 7:54 pm

Step 1: get the wheels off
Step 2: Get a 10mm shorty socket and remove the caliper bolts
Step 3: Once Caliper is removed, take off you master cylinder cap, then get a cheap C clamp to compress the piston on the caliper to its fully compressed point. Do this slowly to prevent brake fluid from shooting out of the master cylinder.
Step 4: Install the new brake pads into the position of the origionals. Put a rotor on loosly,Slide the caliper back into its origional mounting postion and hand tighten the caliper mounting bolts.
Step 5: Bolt on one lug nut to to hold the rotor into its mounted position, dont install wheel yet...just mount the rotor with one lug nut or two if preffered..
Step 6: Mount the caliper bolts tightly, re-install the master cylinder cap. Now press the brake pedal a couple of times to bring the pads out until the pedal is hard.
Step 7: Recheck the fluid level of the master cylinder. Once everything is in check, continue with the proper break in procedure with the so called pads you got...
***Note - Do not run the car when the master cylinder cap is removed and you are hitting the brake pedal***

Project Draven · Post by **Project Draven** » Mon May 22, 2006 9:10 pm

Holy Hell BRR!!
That was a beautiful right up!
Rock on!
OB, its very important that you DO NOT START YOUR CAR BEFORE YOU PUMP THE BRAKES!! Make sure you have a good feeling brake pedal before you start your car!

Ifixyawata · Post by **Ifixyawata** » Mon May 22, 2006 11:57 pm

Sheesh, worn out at 15k? And I thought I was foolish to think of replacing mine at 30. So are these Hawk pads any good? How much did they run? Any other good ones?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue May 23, 2006 5:02 am

Edited post a lil bit....

OB · Post by OB » Tue May 23, 2006 2:32 pm

Ifixyawata wrote:Sheesh, worn out at 15k? And I thought I was foolish to think of replacing mine at 30. So are these Hawk pads any good? How much did they run? Any other good ones?

hawks are supposed to be the best of the best, they offer the street and track versions, the former of which i have coming in the mail as i write this. you dont notice how worn your brakes are until u drive a neons with nearly new brakes and feel the huge difference. stock pads surely arent made to perform well for so many miles, but they ARE designed to last, regrdless of pedal feel/brake power it seems. what i mean is, the hawk pads are actually designed with performance in mind, but being the street pads, they also are tested for minimum dust and sound, as well as to outlast the stockers while retaining their performance abilities. I hate squishy brakes, so im replacing mine early. lack of ABS and good tires means i gotta slow this thing down somehow and these brakes dont inspire much confidence, especially in the rain!

ps thanks brr ill be sure to keep those directions in mind when i get around to the swap. ill surely be back with more questions about the install!

grambo · Post by **grambo** » Tue May 23, 2006 2:44 pm

My HAWK pads are the chit mang. you will enjoy them. They have lasted FOREVER too. Even withmy commute.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Tue May 23, 2006 4:26 pm

I try

scneonchic · Post by **scneonchic** » Tue May 23, 2006 11:35 pm

I have the Hawk HPS pads also, the street versions. Changed them out at about 65k...I think that was the first time they had ever been changed

Ive had them on there about 1k miles now and I love them. Much better than stock, even the dust is not that bad.

OB · Post by OB » Wed May 24, 2006 12:00 am

great thanks for the feedback chic, any other comments on them? anyone else have a good/bad experience with the HPS pads?

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Wed May 24, 2006 6:25 am

Im using NAPA Ceramic pads and have not had a problem yet. High speed fun driving it will lock the tires up to the point where the ABS goes nuts

OB · Post by OB » Wed May 24, 2006 10:11 am

shit i can lock my tires at 5 mph and slide for 2 feet haha. non abs FTW

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed May 24, 2006 11:43 am

Yeah you will need to bleed the brakes... Once you open up the line to get the caliper off air will come in, thats why you got to compress the piston I am guessing. Air is bad... To bleed the brakes this is what I did...

1. Have someone sit in the car.
2. Have someone ready to close the line for me it was the banjo bolt.
3. Tell person in car to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times all the way to the floor. This will shoot fluid out and air...
4. have them hold it all the way down on the 4th pump.
5. Screw bolt back on.

(Remember to work with passenger side first since it is farther away from master cylinder. Then do drivers side.) all you got to do is bleed the front since you are changing pads.

dblsg · Post by **dblsg** » Wed May 24, 2006 11:54 am

raul-01 wrote:Yeah you will need to bleed the brakes... Once you open up the line to get the caliper off air will come in

brake line dosen't need to come off

OB · Post by OB » Wed May 24, 2006 2:23 pm

btw what brand of brake fluid do you guys run/suggest? like everything else, i want the best stuff. do regular auto stores carry the high performance stuff?

thanks for the info raul ill keep the passenger side first thing in mind for sure.

kc2005ptgt · Post by **kc2005ptgt** » Wed May 24, 2006 6:53 pm

Don't we have to use something special? Like a +4 or maybe that is the ATF (tranny) fluid - hell I don't remember, I think for brakes on our chugs anyhting will do.

BlackRoseRacing · Post by **BlackRoseRacing** » Wed May 24, 2006 7:09 pm

1: You do not need to remove the brake line to do front pads....
2: The neon uses standard DOT3 fluid, you can switch to DOT4 if you want but the entire system has to be completely flushed of all the old fluid before DOT4 can be installed...

OB · Post by OB » Wed May 24, 2006 7:13 pm

and what would be the purpose of using DOT4? improved performance? any advantages? u guys havent heard of any performance brands of brake fluid? i need to find that magazine i read that article in. real interesting.

esteinmaier · Post by **esteinmaier** » Thu May 25, 2006 10:00 am

I believe that the DOT rating is only a rating of freezing/boiling temp. So unless your lines are exploding, I doubt it would be worth it.