where to find 8ohm speakers

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Wed May 24, 2006 8:59 pm

havent gone to the stores yet, but everything ive come across online is 4ohm.. been to ebay, crutchfield, cardomain, wal-mart(yuck) and other various stores and searches.
lookin to redo my front doors and put tweeters back in my dashboard.. but need 8ohm speakers..

6.5 and 3.5
links or suggestions would be great...

neonlight18 · Post by **neonlight18** » Thu May 25, 2006 10:03 am

try www.audioclubhouse.com they might have some..

mynameiskiller · Post by **mynameiskiller** » Thu May 25, 2006 2:46 pm

www.partsexpress.com

tang band 3.5 full range...

*edit* they have apparently discontinued the 3.5 since last time i looked...

how about this for tweets:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=270-058

and this for door:http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=290-023

you would need crossovers, if you are audiophoically savvy, you could probably just throw a resistor inline with the tweets for a basic crossover point. im sure someone here could figure out the value for it...

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Thu May 25, 2006 4:09 pm

guess i should explain my main goal is to ditch the huge heavy ass box in the trunk. so id be sacrificing alot of bump. just trying to figure out the best setup for some good sound with some decent lows... music choice is mainly SOME rap and mostly drum n bass, breakbeats techno etc.. , but i dont BLAST my music..

my deck is a pioneer deh p670mp
got kicker 2ways in the front door (crappin out)
and kenwoods in the rear deck

the tweeters look like a plan, and the stock stereo wiring has the resistor inline already..
(still debating on amping front and rear).

the other is just a subwoofer though?, wouldnt a 3way sound better in the door for the full range?

was also thinking about doin 3ways in the dash door and rear

(componants own all is the words i keep reading, but not sure about dropping that kind of $)

koreysxt · Post by **koreysxt** » Thu May 25, 2006 5:03 pm

Why do you want 8 ohms speakers -- especially with an aftermarket HU? If I understand, you're wanting to ditch your huge sub box, and still have some deep sound? A nice set of 6.5 components in front, and 6.9s in rear will give you some bass. If not enough, ditch the huge box, and get a 10" sub. Even 1 10" provides a world of difference.

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Thu May 25, 2006 5:50 pm

koreysxt wrote:Why do you want 8 ohms speakers -- especially with an aftermarket HU? If I understand, you're wanting to ditch your huge sub box, and still have some deep sound? A nice set of 6.5 components in front, and 6.9s in rear will give you some bass. If not enough, ditch the huge box, and get a 10" sub. Even 1 10" provides a world of difference.

i could just give up on puttin the tweeters back in the dash, and search for 4ohms easily. but the tweets are nice for highs if i could do em..
i wanted 8ohms for the front door and dash .. the doors and tweets wiring is for 8's wired together down to 4ohms for the front 2 channels. just hard to find searching, since everything is a standard 4ohms... actually most house speakers are usually 8ohms, might have to search that..

i still have the 10 dvc sub and ported box i had before, was just trying to eliminate any extra weight, since thats still 30-40lbs i think... the 2 12's and box i have are easily 100lbs

i still might put it back in, just trying to get a decent setup and then decide if i want to throw the 10 back in the trunk

koreysxt · Post by **koreysxt** » Fri May 26, 2006 3:10 pm

Ahhh -- I think I understand now. You want aftermarket speakers -- but use the stock wiring? (2) 4 ohm speakers in parallel will bring it down to 2 ohm load. I'd still suggest components. Run the door/front wire off your deck, to the input of the passive crossover. Then run new wire from the cross-over to the tweets. This will by-pass the factory wire for the dash speakers. You can still use the factory wire for the 6.5 midrange in the door (if you wish) -- running off the cross-over. This is what I did -- because I didn't want to run new wire to the door. Mine are running off an amp, but the concept is the same.