How to loosen exhaust band clamp(rusted)

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v793jt0
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How to loosen exhaust band clamp(rusted)

Post by v793jt0 » Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:09 am

So i was wondering how everyone go these loosen ... mine are pretty rusty... im trying to replace muffler but cant get these loose out of ideas any suggestions?

This is waht they look like.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2SlJf2 ... sp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2SlJf2 ... sp=sharing

NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:16 am

You can re-use them, if you are careful.

First - You'll NEED a real good rust penetrant, such as PB Blaster or Kroil.

After letting it soak... You'll need to re-apply it, while loosening the nut.
Once the nut is sufficiently loosened, you'll need to [carefully] hammer / pry it apart, a little at a time.

If all goes well, you'll be able to remove it, without distorting the hell out of it.
Luck, and patience is key.


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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Wenuden
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Post by Wenuden » Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:17 am

Tons of PB Blaster for a couple days, then a day or two later, a torch, box end wrench and a BFH.
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v793jt0
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Post by v793jt0 » Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:30 am

I had never heard of pb blaster but it seems magical....ill definitely have to get some tomorrow. .....

so is using this stuff the trick to not snapping rusted bolts when removing them? I have snapped several bolts before where wd 40 was not good enough to fight rust and let me remove the bolts for the first time since having car...that moment is always frustrating

stdlystdmufn
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Post by stdlystdmufn » Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:40 am

not really it just helps them come off a little easier. if they are going to break they are going to break. you might also want to get a propane torch heat it up til it is red hot. that seems to help more than pb blaster. but in a pinch or in certain situations pb blaster can really help.

if you don't want to buy a propane torch then i would let your car run for a while to heat the exhaust up. maybe run some errands and then try and break them free.
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NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:44 am

v793jt0 wrote:I had never heard of pb blaster but it seems magical....ill definitely have to get some tomorrow. .....

so is using this stuff the trick to not snapping rusted bolts when removing them? I have snapped several bolts before where wd 40 was not good enough to fight rust and let me remove the bolts for the first time since having car...that moment is always frustrating
WD-40, is WORTHLESS for loosening badly rusted nuts and bolts like these.

Compared to WD-40, PB Blaster will seem almost magical. :D


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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ducktapetg
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Post by ducktapetg » Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:53 am

As said before, spray the crap out of the bolt with PB blaster and let it soak for a few days. I found in my experience, letting it soak is huge in the removal of rusted bolts. Also, heat would be great too. Not sure if running the car would help if you don't have a propane torch. I don't think its going to heat the bolt enough like a torch would.

If all else fails, cut the clamp off and get a new one.
Jason

2001 r/t
1998 r/t Project Log --> viewtopic.php?t=66496

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:35 pm

I must be doing something wrong, because I snap off more shit with PB blaster than I do with WD40.

I guess 40 years plus of experience with WD40 has worked out better for me.
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gtxtreme19
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Post by gtxtreme19 » Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:54 am

I use kano kroil when I can find it, but its very hard to find in stores. I have recently found a 1:1 mix of atf and acetone works so much better than anything I've found. I always break stuff with wd-40 and pb blaster
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thomas_w
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Post by thomas_w » Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:36 am

I successfully used PB blaster for the first time on my O2 sensor. After getting the right tool and driving around for a while to heat it up it worked pretty well. No idea what the actual contribution of the PB blaster in all this was though. I did read about the Koni oil but that stuff really is hard to get. Pretty much directly from the manufacturer was the only online source I could find somewhat quickly.

v793jt0
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Post by v793jt0 » Wed Sep 04, 2013 11:43 pm

Tried pb blaster with no luck

so i even tried with a hacksaw but got tired before I could make any real progress on cutting the band clamp.. and I guess pb blaster can help me much since the nut is pretty much gone and became one with the bult nothing to grab onto to turn and get loose

NickKo
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Post by NickKo » Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:29 pm

gtxtreme19 wrote:I use kano kroil when I can find it, but its very hard to find in stores.
Online:
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
Good stuff !! :thumbup:


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009

v793jt0
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 12:34 am

Post by v793jt0 » Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:51 pm

so the nut is basically gone due rust so I cant really use a socket ..what should I try .. tried hacksaw but I got tired with very little result

Wenuden
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Post by Wenuden » Sun Sep 08, 2013 10:52 pm

Locking pliers. Tighten them so that you need to use another tool to get them to lock.

Oh yeah, and get a torch set from Home Depot or Lowes or somewhere similar. They come in handy for stuff like this way too often to not have one in the tool box. You should be able to get a torch head and a can of propane or MAPP gas for ~$30. Gas can should last quite a while if you only use it for rusted bolts.
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