How to loosen exhaust band clamp(rusted)
How to loosen exhaust band clamp(rusted)
So i was wondering how everyone go these loosen ... mine are pretty rusty... im trying to replace muffler but cant get these loose out of ideas any suggestions?
This is waht they look like.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2SlJf2 ... sp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2SlJf2 ... sp=sharing
This is waht they look like.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2SlJf2 ... sp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2SlJf2 ... sp=sharing
You can re-use them, if you are careful.
First - You'll NEED a real good rust penetrant, such as PB Blaster or Kroil.
After letting it soak... You'll need to re-apply it, while loosening the nut.
Once the nut is sufficiently loosened, you'll need to [carefully] hammer / pry it apart, a little at a time.
If all goes well, you'll be able to remove it, without distorting the hell out of it.
Luck, and patience is key.
- Nick
First - You'll NEED a real good rust penetrant, such as PB Blaster or Kroil.
After letting it soak... You'll need to re-apply it, while loosening the nut.
Once the nut is sufficiently loosened, you'll need to [carefully] hammer / pry it apart, a little at a time.
If all goes well, you'll be able to remove it, without distorting the hell out of it.
Luck, and patience is key.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
I had never heard of pb blaster but it seems magical....ill definitely have to get some tomorrow. .....
so is using this stuff the trick to not snapping rusted bolts when removing them? I have snapped several bolts before where wd 40 was not good enough to fight rust and let me remove the bolts for the first time since having car...that moment is always frustrating
so is using this stuff the trick to not snapping rusted bolts when removing them? I have snapped several bolts before where wd 40 was not good enough to fight rust and let me remove the bolts for the first time since having car...that moment is always frustrating
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not really it just helps them come off a little easier. if they are going to break they are going to break. you might also want to get a propane torch heat it up til it is red hot. that seems to help more than pb blaster. but in a pinch or in certain situations pb blaster can really help.
if you don't want to buy a propane torch then i would let your car run for a while to heat the exhaust up. maybe run some errands and then try and break them free.
if you don't want to buy a propane torch then i would let your car run for a while to heat the exhaust up. maybe run some errands and then try and break them free.
in the middle of a DOHC and MTX swap and going with an ASP kit pwered by the S259 batmowheel
WD-40, is WORTHLESS for loosening badly rusted nuts and bolts like these.v793jt0 wrote:I had never heard of pb blaster but it seems magical....ill definitely have to get some tomorrow. .....
so is using this stuff the trick to not snapping rusted bolts when removing them? I have snapped several bolts before where wd 40 was not good enough to fight rust and let me remove the bolts for the first time since having car...that moment is always frustrating
Compared to WD-40, PB Blaster will seem almost magical.
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:20 pm
- Location: New Hampshire
As said before, spray the crap out of the bolt with PB blaster and let it soak for a few days. I found in my experience, letting it soak is huge in the removal of rusted bolts. Also, heat would be great too. Not sure if running the car would help if you don't have a propane torch. I don't think its going to heat the bolt enough like a torch would.
If all else fails, cut the clamp off and get a new one.
If all else fails, cut the clamp off and get a new one.
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- Junior Admin
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- Location: Ashland Ohio
I must be doing something wrong, because I snap off more shit with PB blaster than I do with WD40.
I guess 40 years plus of experience with WD40 has worked out better for me.
I guess 40 years plus of experience with WD40 has worked out better for me.
Bill
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCMOlha Koba, a psychologist in Kyiv, said that “anger and hate in this situation is a normal reaction and important to validate.” But it is important to channel it into something useful, she said, such as making incendiary bombs out of empty bottles.
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
2021 Forester
- gtxtreme19
- 2010 Silver Contributor
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- Location: 43554 NW ohio
I use kano kroil when I can find it, but its very hard to find in stores. I have recently found a 1:1 mix of atf and acetone works so much better than anything I've found. I always break stuff with wd-40 and pb blaster
-Mike
Midnight_Rider wrote:Gramps Prefers Streetmaps.Skitlz wrote:Gramps, get a GPS.
I successfully used PB blaster for the first time on my O2 sensor. After getting the right tool and driving around for a while to heat it up it worked pretty well. No idea what the actual contribution of the PB blaster in all this was though. I did read about the Koni oil but that stuff really is hard to get. Pretty much directly from the manufacturer was the only online source I could find somewhat quickly.
Online:gtxtreme19 wrote:I use kano kroil when I can find it, but its very hard to find in stores.
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
Good stuff !!
- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm
Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000009
Locking pliers. Tighten them so that you need to use another tool to get them to lock.
Oh yeah, and get a torch set from Home Depot or Lowes or somewhere similar. They come in handy for stuff like this way too often to not have one in the tool box. You should be able to get a torch head and a can of propane or MAPP gas for ~$30. Gas can should last quite a while if you only use it for rusted bolts.
Oh yeah, and get a torch set from Home Depot or Lowes or somewhere similar. They come in handy for stuff like this way too often to not have one in the tool box. You should be able to get a torch head and a can of propane or MAPP gas for ~$30. Gas can should last quite a while if you only use it for rusted bolts.